Front Window Problem

db_cooper

I'm going to chalk this up to the first real problem we've had with our T@B.

This weekend I opened the front window just a bit to make coffee, and later went outside.  While outside I decided to open the window fully, and loosened the struts and gave a gentle pull.  There was a bit of resistance and then a loud pop.  I thought one of the struts was stuck, and came loose suddenly and gave it no more thought.

Well tonight while giving her a bath, I see that the top of the window had a foot long crack running along the top.  It apparently had caught on the metal rail above that keeps debris from filling it from above.  What's weird is that the day before we had the window open and it cleared that rail easily.  I checked the screws holding the rail and they were all loose but did not affect the sag, so I used some pliers to bend the rail out of the way where it was catching.

I thought it was cosmetic only, but the rod that holds up the window really relies on the strength of the channel, so I'll probably be replacing it soon.  I bent the rail back up where it had sagged, and now it opens and closes fine.  Wish I'd caught that sooner.  Everything on this front window must sag eventually.  Love having it, but looks like it's going to be one of the problem areas due to the curves.

You might want to keep an eye on yours, and if you feel any resistance at all take a look at the top of the window outside.  Will be giving Elsie a call tomorrow.

Nomad

Got a pic?

db_cooper

John_and_Kris

Are you saying the window sags and then hits the channel? How does one keep the window from sagging? Is it related to the screws? Any thoughts on what to look for as a Maintenance check list John

db_cooper

This is after "repair". You can see the wavy rail I had to bend out of the way.  Crack is horizontal right below.  Trailer must have flexed because I couldn't move the rail up.

This is not just cosmetic as the whole top edge of window is part of the support.  Its still got good support at the corners and might be OK, but I will probably replace soon.

Something to keep an eye on so you catch it before its a 300 dollar repair.  

mickietucs

While not that particular issue, this kind of coincides with the issue some of us are having with not being able to open the front window. The struts simply do not hold (even with the window all the way open). I'm waiting to see if the factory comes up with a solution. This leads me to ask about how the window should be closed when traveling. I've always closed it using the inside handles to lock it on the bottom and sides. But I wondered if that's correct because it leaves kind of a gap around. I know this because I had a somewhat funny thing happen just a few days ago. I was behind a semi carrying hay. When I reached my destination and opened up, there was hay all over the kitchen area! It got into a lot of places. A bit funny but made me wonder if I'm supposed to travel with the window closed differently. 

Sorry to add on to your thread with this - your post made me think of other front window issues ---

Nomad

Hmmmmm - Here's mine...




Tryin to figure out what sagged - That whole top rail you straightened?
Seems the window fits in that rounded channel at bottom and if that channel shifted down it could crack when opened.

db_cooper

Pxlated,  your's looks perfect.  Nice even gap all the way across.

Mine only hit in the middle, and the gap looked the same on the ends.  All the screws were a bit loose that hold it on, so I suspect that was the problem.  I left a message for Elsie,  hope to get something shipped before the holiday,  but I suspect the window will not fail too soon. 

If you ever feel even a little resistance, go outside and look at that channel and make sure it's not hitting.

db_cooper

mickietucs said:

While not that particular issue, this kind of coincides with the issue some of us are having with not being able to open the front window. The struts simply do not hold (even with the window all the way open). I'm waiting to see if the factory comes up with a solution. This leads me to ask about how the window should be closed when traveling. I've always closed it using the inside handles to lock it on the bottom and sides. But I wondered if that's correct because it leaves kind of a gap around. I know this because I had a somewhat funny thing happen just a few days ago. I was behind a semi carrying hay. When I reached my destination and opened up, there was hay all over the kitchen area! It got into a lot of places. A bit funny but made me wonder if I'm supposed to travel with the window closed differently. 

Sorry to add on to your thread with this - your post made me think of other front window issues ---

You definitely want all 4 latches closed,  if you're getting stuff inside with those closed, then it sounds like the rubber seal is not in the right place. 

There's really not that much holding the window on at the top,  I would think the window could actually

jdargis

Mickietucs-Did you have the window latched all the way on the interior catches, or did you have it latched on the catch, which creates a small air space, yet keeps the window secure.  Some people don't know that the window has to latched tight on the catch, they think the slotted catch has the window closed tight, which is not the case.

mickietucs

jdargis said:

Mickietucs-Did you have the window latched all the way on the interior catches, or did you have it latched on the catch, which creates a small air space, yet keeps the window secure.  Some people don't know that the window has to latched tight on the catch, they think the slotted catch has the window closed tight, which is not the case.

That's where I'm a bit confused. I have them IN the latches/catches. I'll take a picture later. I'm thinking by what you're saying that while traveling, they have to be closed "behind" the slot (hope that's clear) and not IN the slot. Using the slot does seem to create a small air space and that's how all the hay got inside. I now keep it closed anyway since I cannot keep it open (hoping the factory comes up with a fix).  Thanks.

jdargis

Behind the slot, the window is totally closed and sealed.  The slot is good for getting ventilation in the trailer in case of pouring rain, or having the trailer secure (?) when you are out and about. Also, works good to ventilate the trailer for moisture in cold weather.

mickietucs

jdargis said:

Behind the slot, the window is totally closed and sealed.  The slot is good for getting ventilation in the trailer in case of pouring rain, or having the trailer secure (?) when you are out and about. Also, works good to ventilate the trailer for moisture in cold weather.

Ah ha! Thanks --- guess if I had done that I wouldn't have had the "hay" issue! 

jdargis

Just glad is wasn't a bad seal.

db_cooper

Update-  Bought a replacement window and installed it last night.  Turns out that the window itself deformed.   The rail it slides into was perfectly straight, but the window has a hump, like the corners sagged.  Maybe heat related, but most likely a manufacturing defect.  Since no one else seems to have a problem will hope it's a fluke.  

ericnliz

db_cooper, thanks for the update. Sounds like you said a fluke in a manufacturing defect. Glad you're back in business!

Smullis7

db_cooper, how difficult was the window install?  I had the front window and passenger window broke by a freak hail storm.  Our local dealer was hit as well and already told us it would be mid-winter before they can get to any repairs, so...unless I want to rely on my hill-billy laminate temporary repair (which has held up quite well for a month now) that long, I'll need to replace them myself. 

db_cooper

It's easy once you see what's going on.  I'm traveling so don't have time this week for pictures.  Basically open window high enough to see one screw on right side of rail.  Remove screw and slide window, rail and all to the right to remove.  Trick to putting window back on is holding it open while sliding rail back into track.  Have to be careful to avoid scratching the camper.

mikesnewjourney

My wife and I just purchased our T@B 400 at an RV show and while it was being shown the next couple days someone forced the front window and broke the polymer inside on the upper latch.  I was told by the dealer that the new one will have to be resealed?  I was kind under the impression it is one unit and it did not need sealant?  We love this trailer and I know there will be some problems, but I know they will be all ironed out.  I am sure proud to have moved up from my 2006 model to this one.  Does anyone have the instructions for the front window install on this T@B 400?  
Thank you for your time. 

SactoSteve

Anybody have window problems addressed under warranty?

SactoSteve

db_cooper said:

It's easy once you see what's going on.  I'm traveling so don't have time this week for pictures.  Basically open window high enough to see one screw on right side of rail.  Remove screw and slide window, rail and all to the right to remove.  Trick to putting window back on is holding it open while sliding rail back into track.  Have to be careful to avoid scratching the camper.

These instructions are correct but I missed a key element at first "slide window, rail and all "  The replacement window must be set into the removed rail and then "slide window, rail and all" as one unit into the track. And, yeah, a bit tricky clearing the plastic trim while starting the reinsertion.

-Steve

ReenieG

SactoSteve said:

db_cooper said:

It's easy once you see what's going on.  I'm traveling so don't have time this week for pictures.  Basically open window high enough to see one screw on right side of rail.  Remove screw and slide window, rail and all to the right to remove.  Trick to putting window back on is holding it open while sliding rail back into track.  Have to be careful to avoid scratching the camper.

These instructions are correct but I missed a key element at first "slide window, rail and all "  The replacement window must be set into the removed rail and then "slide window, rail and all" as one unit into the track. And, yeah, a bit tricky clearing the plastic trim while starting the reinsertion.

-Steve

@SactoSteve are you saying you need to remove the aluminum rail in order to replace the window? Also, do you need to buy a replacement rail when replacing the window or just the window or does the window come with a new aluminum rail? I'm having some issues with my window "falling out" of the track when I ope it but nothing looks broken or bent. I had a friend that helped me and we slid the window out of the rail and inspected everything and put it back. We didn't find anything that looked broken or damaged.

We put the window back in place and I McGyvered it with a piece of plastic "c" tubing that you would use to hide a wire or cable. The small piece I had was enough to hold it in place while camping and I could open and close it. I took it out when I was traveling and the window stays in the track when it's locked. I was planning on spray painting it silver to protect it and putting a piece of that "c" casing along the whole top of the window. It has a self stick side that would hold it in place but I don't want to stick it there yet unless I know I would be able to remove it at a later date without too much trouble if I needed to replace the window later on.

SactoSteve

Hello, sorry you are having window problems.
The aluminum part is 2 piece. The “track” stays attached to the roof, but the “rail” slides off with the old window. The rail is reusable. With the window struts loose open the window fully and you will find a screw that holds the “rail” to the track. This needs to be removed to slide the window and the “rail” out together. The plastic trim on the side of the trailer needs to be removed to slide the window and keeper out. This requires detaching the keader channel to detach the plastic trim. Doesn’t need to come all the way off just to where the window will slide out. I suggest putting some tape on the roof where the window will pass to protect it while you remove the window. Its easy to scratch the roof with the “rail”. Experience🙄
good luck,
Steve