Norcold Fridge on AC (not working)

EWizard

Hey all,
I'm hoping for some troubleshooting help.
I have an older T@B with a 3 way Norcold fridge.
When we go on a trip I like to plug in the T@B to an outlet in my garage (via a 50 extension cord) and let it get cold for 24 hours before we leave.
I turned the fridge on earlier today and it's still hot inside, like it's not working at all.
I verified the outlet that it's plugged into is live, so I'm at a loss.
The T@B is level from side to side and front to back.
Anything else I can check?
Do you think having the umbilical cord connected to an extension cord, then the outlet could be the problem?
I can't imagine it would, as the a/c runs fine like this.

Nomad

Try the fridge on propane to see if it's working in a different mode.

Ratkity

There are a couple of threads saying there are 3 fuses for the 3-way frig that can be found under the stovetop (if you have a stovetop). The frig in my T@B has a 110v receptacle and it is plugged into a normal AC outlet under the sink to the right of the frig (I have a 2015 T@Bitha - keep in mind my arrangement may be way different than yours). Make sure it's plugged in fully and the frig plug didn't get knocked out by accident. I'm sure you've already checked AC breakers, but knowing the electrical experience you've had with the prior owner and pump, make sure you thoroughly check the converter and look for loose wires on the 110v side - don't forget to check the neutral wire block too for loose wires. 

Like PXL said, try to ignite it on propane to see if it lights up (it also cools faster on propane).

Best of luck!

Photomom

If your fridge is plugged into an outlet in the trailer as Ratkity said, check that outlet with an outlet tester. That should tell you whether the problem is on the fridge side or the trailer side.

EWizard

I have one of those outlet testers with the lights that show if the wiring is correct and also shows if the outlet is live.
The outlet is not the issue for sure.  The fridge does light on propane.  
I just lit it, and will leave it on propane while I'm at work today and see how cold it is when I get home.
Weird that it would light on propane, but not on AC.

Photomom

That could well be a fridge fuse or another part in the part of the fridge that works on AC. Rather than tearing into the fridge now, why not pre cool and camp with propane, and have a great weekend! You can fix it next week.

Verna

EWizard, the fridge is a miser on propane. In two weeks of using the Alde and fridge at night, then two weeks of the Alde set on 55* after I got home, I still had only used 1/2 of the propane tank. 

EWizard

Mine is so old I don't have an Alde.
My trip is only 2 weeks long, so do you think a full propane tank (I filled it yesterday) will last?

Another dumb question.
Do you think that having my shore cable plugged into a 50' extension cord is the issue?
I also thought about pulling the fridge out tonight and checking the fuses.

EWizard

To get at the fuses [under the stovetop], would I go about it by pulling the fridge out, or going in through the top by removing the stovetop?

Photomom

If the air conditioner works on the extension cord I would think the fridge would. That is exactly what I do and the fridge cooled fine. Didn't run the A/C though. 

If if it were me I wouldn't pull stuff out right before a trip if I had an alternative. 

EWizard

I just hope the battery function works as I just spent a bunch of time wiring an 8 gauge wire from my tow vehicle's battery to the RV.
If that doesn't work, then that whole project was for nothing...

EWizard

I guess it all boils down to how difficult it is to get to the fuses.

Nomad

I don't have hookups often but do when visiting my brothers for a week at a time - Even then I run the fridge on propane. Just changed tanks yesterday after four weeks of just fridge, no Alde. So you should be fine for your trip.
I'd not pull the fridge if I could get at the fuses thru either the cooktop or the outside vent.

ChanW

Pulling the stovetop off is fairly easy, at least on the 2014.

There are rubber nubs on each corner, that act as cushions for the glass, and beneath the rubber things are screws.

The screws have anchor type nuts under the stovetop, which hook under the countertop. Loosening the screws a bit, maybe five or 10 turns, will allow the nuts to turn a quarter of a turn so they're no longer hooked under the countertop. Don't unscrew them all the way or you will lose the nut down into the bowels of the fridge.

 Then you simply lift the stovetop. Lift it gently, because the gas line is still attached. You can set it aside. Some people have said that theirs is caulked to the countertop, but ours wasn't.

 Careful when screwing the stovetop back down, not to tighten the screws too much.

EWizard

Mine is an old Dutchman (2005) and it has the sink and stove as one unit.
I'd have to possibly disconnect the sink drain, although there may be enough play in the line.
The weird thing is this has happened before, then started to work again on it's own.

What I'm not sure about is that the 12V battery function will work either.  I just went through 
the trouble of installing a relay and a fat 8 gauge wire from my tow vehicle's engine compartment
all the way to the 7 way plug so that I could run the fridge on battery while I'm driving.

If the same issue that that is keeping the fridge from working on AC is present on Battery, then 
all that work was for nothing.
If I have time tonight I might try lifting the cook top to see if I can get to the fuses from there.
If not I'll just have to deal with a sort-of-working fridge for this trip.

ChanW

I think it still might be easier than pulling the fridge out. The intake/exhaust seems pretty inflexible.

Photomom

You can freeze a container of water in your home freezer and use it to keep your pre chilled fridge cool while you're driving, then switch to propane.

I think most people here have newer trailers. Are you on Facebook? There are a couple pages there that have a lot of Dutchman owners and maybe someone there has experience removing the sink/stove.
T@B Camping Trailers
T@DA, T@B & T@G Camper Trailer Owners

Both are closed groups you have to join.

EWizard

Well I pulled the fridge out partially, then removed the outside grill (next to the door) to gain better access to the fuses on top of the Norcold. The fuses were good.
One thing I did notice was there was a black (ground?) spade connector that was was disconnected, and an open spot the terminal block near the fuses. I plugged it into the one open male spade...
We'll see if this works or not.

By the way, my green light was on this morning when I lit the propane, but the fridge was still hot hot hot when I got home.
Not looking like I'm going to be able to fix this one before the trip. It's going to be a bummer not having a fridge!

Nomad

Do you have anything in the fridge? My brother thought his wasn't working, told him to put a can of pop inside and let sit. Discovered the pop was cold even though the inside of the fridge wasn't spewing out cold when the door was open.

EWizard

I discovered that early on, and always have a can of pop in there.
On the way home I bought one of those hanging refrigerator thermometers, so now I always know my temp.
I'm hoping the net issue was one wire disconnected.
Time will tell.  Crossing my fingers.

Nomad

Got mine crossed for ya.

Photomom

If it doesn't, don't let it ruin your plans. We camped for 30 years with a cooler!

EWizard

Oh we have too, it's just that the fridge is sooooooo nice!

EWizard

On a related note, does anyone know if the 3 way Norcold has a fuse in the converter box?
I know there are barrel fuses on top of the unit itself, but does anyone know if there is also a blade type fuse in the converter?

Mr_Mrs_Gnome

We have a 2017 Outback S and the top fuse in the fuse box is 15 amp for "DC Circuit #1 Fridge". It's a blade fuse.

R_CUP_A_Tab

We just took delivery of a 2017 T@B S Max. Dealer said that the frig takes 6-8 hours to cool when connected to AC but after 3 hours there is absolutely NO sign of cooling on the cooling fins. However, there is a lot of heat produced at the top of the counter and stove area even with the cooling fan turned ON. Has anyone had a similar experience and how long must I wait for the heat exchanger fins on the inside to get cold? Or at least start feeling cool?

RollingLagrima

I thought that too. I takes up to 12 hours in my experience to get down to "keep foods cold" level while on AC.  You won't see frost on the fins and touching them while you have the door open letting any cold air that is in there escape, makes them feel not cool when they are in fact working. Many folks turn the fridge on the day before or use the propane instead (which seems to cool faster).

Verna

Buy a remote indoor/outdoor thermometer and put it in the fridge.  Then you don't have to open the fridge to see what the temp is.

Photomom

I have this one and it works well. You can use the second sensor to monitor temp inside the camper, or outside if you're camping in cold weather. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJVU78/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

R_CUP_A_Tab

Thanks for the response. But after 9 hours, no apparent cooling. I'll leave on all night with a thermometer inside and check in the morning. Also, does your countertop and left side of the cooktop get very hot during AC mode? My cooktop is uncomfortably hot to the touch with cooling fan ON. Also, how long for the cooling fins to get cold in propane mode? I'll try propane tomorrow and compare to AC.

Photomom

My countertop gets hot unless I turn the supplemental fan on, then it's barely warm. Can you hear the fan, and do you feel hot air coming out the vent beside the door? Also, make sure the air intake on the floor under the fridge isn't blocked.