Wheel bearing grease

Dalehelman

I just added grease to the wheel bearings on 2015 T@B through the zerk fitting on the axel stub. There is approx. 5000 miles on it. I was suprized at how much grease was needed to bring them up to full. If you have this type I would consider checking them.

Nomad

Is it the zerk in the center of the wheel hub?
When I had mine greased a couple of weeks ago I asked about using that zerk and the guy said the trouble was it actually fills from the back so you can't easily tell when full as excess willcome out the back and can end up in the brake area. Said a squirt or two every so often would be ok - like at 3,000 miles.
Anyone else know anything about this?

Verna

Bill_in_Tulsa said:

Does anyone know the type of Wheel Bearing Grease the factory is using in 2015 / 2016 wheel bearings. I found mine has the easy lube zerts for grease gun lubing. Can you help?

Bill, refer to the Little Guy Owner's Manual.   

Here is what it says about axle maintenance:  

Bearing Inspection: 

Wash all grease and oil from the bearing and cone using a suitable solvent. Dry the bearing with a clean, lint free cloth and completely inspect each roller. Replace the bearing cone and cup if there are any signs of pitting, wear, or corrosion. Repeat the inspection procedure for the inner bearing cone. ALWAYS REPLACE THE BEARING CONE AND CUP AS A PAIR. *

*IMPORTANT** DO NOT MIX LITHIUM, CALCIUM, SODIUM, OR BARIUM COMPLEX GREASES DUE TO POTENTIAL COMPATIBILITY PROBLEMS. WHEN CHANGING FROM ONE TYPE OF GREASE TO ANOTHER, IT IS NECESSARY TO INSURE THAT ALL OF THE OLD GREASE HAS BEEN REMOVED. 

Bearing Lubrication: 

Proper adjustment and adequate lubrication of the bearings are essential to the longevity and performance of your trailer axle. The bearings should be lubricated every 6000 miles or 6 months. 

Procedure: 

• Remove the rubber plug from grease cap.
• Insert grease gun on the grease zerk. 
• Pump until new grease begins to appear. 
• Replace rubber plug. 

If you do use the grease Zerks to pump grease into the bearings make sure that you rotate the hub by hand while pumping grease into the bearings.  

As for which grease to use you should use a high temperature, automotive type wheel bearing grease produced by a reputable manufacturer. The soap type should be lithium complex or equivalent. Use NLGI Grade 2 product with a minimum dropping point of 440 F.  And you shouldn't mix different grease types as it could end up damaging the bearings via grease degradation and heat.  

We do have some reference information in the forum Video & Resource area and here is some information/reference information on Dexter axles.  

This is why I take the hub apart, inspect the bearings, bearing races and axle spline and repack my bearings by hand.  I did find a handy bearing tool at AutoZone that I really like and it has come in handy for my bearing inspections/repacking the bearings.  



Here is a helpful video too that gives you pointers on inspecting the bearings and repacking them properly.  




I copied and and pasted this from Michigan Mike's answer to an LG owner on the LG forum.

(Sorry, you'll have to find the video, it didn't copy.)

gulfarea

It would be nice to know the brand of grease rather than the specks so folks could go out and just buy it. 

Nomad

In spite of the recommended 6,000/6 - Why do trailers need grease so differently than a car bearing - It's like ten times as often. The wheels/bearings spin faster but not "that" much faster.

gulfarea

I owned a garage for 31 years. If you just give a little squirt in the hubs once in awhile you will be way ahead of those who do not. It does make us feel better to remove & clean them but purging the old grease out with the grease coming out the front not the back, is just about as good as long as the bearings are not lose when you shake the wheel. Pump slow so the grease will not be forced out onto the brake side. With the hub center off the grease will have a place to come out front & not have to squeeze out threw the rear seal onto the drum brakes. Art

Dalehelman

gulfarea said:

I owned a garage for 31 years. If you just give a little squirt in the hubs once in awhile you will be way ahead of those who do not. It does make us feel better to remove & clean them but purging the old grease out with the grease coming out the front not the back, is just about as good as long as the bearings are not lose when you shake the wheel. Pump slow so the grease will not be forced out onto the brake side. With the hub center off the grease will have a place to come out front & not have to squeeze out threw the rear seal onto the drum brakes. Art

X2 very concise and accurate information thanks Art

irvingj

"Pump slow so the grease will not be forced out onto the brake side."  Right on, Art! On the inside of the hub/bearing there's a grease seal, which is a spring-loaded rubber ring in a metal retainer. If that fails, or too much pressure is applied in the grease-gun method, and grease gets past it, it ends up on the brake shoes. Definitely not good!

Ratkity

Starred for great info! Thank you for all the info. It makes me feel proactive prior to the 6000 mile complete repack.

ScottG

Ratkity said:

Starred for great info! Thank you for all the info. It makes me feel proactive prior to the 6000 mile complete repack.

Ditto that. With the "fun" modifications completed for this season, I've been thinking about more pedestrian maintenance tasks and was hoping for some tips on greasing the hubs. Thanks, all!

gulfarea

You show the seal great! Like I said pump slow with the outer cup removed so grease will not be forced threw the seal onto the brake drum. That way it is like blowing up a balloon with a hole in it, the air or in this case grease will go out the path of least resistance. It will come to the outside and not be forced threw the inner seal. After 31 years of owning my own shop, all the bad bearing case jobs I have seen were DRY bearings. Never seen one with to much grease fail. Lets not make this to complicated. Just put a little in once in awhile and enjoy going places with our T@B,s. You have almost the same set up on all your front bearings in your cars, and they do well for years. Now bearings that are on a boat trailer dipped in salt water are a whole different story. I will try to keep mt T@B out of the ocean. Hope to see you folks somewhere. Art 

Nomad

so Art ... Greasing every 6,000 miles? Cars don't, why?

ericnliz

Thanks Art.

Photomom

Do T@B owners really do this stuff themselves? I don't even replace my own windshield wiper blades. If I take my T@B to a trailer place when it's time will they do the stuff Verna described (disassemble, wash, all those other things) according to the procedure?

ScottG

My guess is that most trailer owners ignore this stuff all together. I'm inclined to be among them, so I will probably start with Art's common-sense suggestion of just topping up the grease now and again.

And yes, since I'm confident in my ability to break (and fix) my own toys, whatever I do I will do myself. What you get from a trailer place will depend on what you ask for, and the reputability of the shop. Unfortunately, if you are unwilling/unable to do your own work, you will have to rely on faith that someone else has done it properly for you--particularly when it comes to hidden maintenance items that cannot be easily verified. 

Photomom

Well, I watched the video and am confident that I can't do this. The part where the guy had a blob of black grease in his hand made me nauseous. Ewww. But at least I have an idea of what to talk to the guy at the trailer place about.

Verna

@Photomom, I have an appointment after I get back from Tearstock to repack and grease my bearing plus he checks the brakes. He's been in business for over 30 years and he has the same same recommendations that Pleasant Valley has. I don't always get in for the 6,000 mile check, but I do get in for the total job once a year.  And I agree....I don't do grease ;(

Photomom

@Verna, about how many miles do you do a year? I'd be surprised if we do more than 3000 before DH retires.

Verna

Photomom said:

@Verna, about how many miles do you do a year? I'd be surprised if we do more than 3000 before DH retires.

I do 12,000+ miles per year. And I'm in AZ and Southern CA for 3 months, so that's what I consider rough duty as compared to the green Midwest. 

Nomad

Still, nobody has answered why the need on the T@B at 6 vs car bearings at 50-60K ?
Getting the feeling that it's just legal mubo jumbo like tags on matresses :-)

gulfarea

PXLated trailer bearings are much smaller than most car front bearings and the smaller trailer wheels turn much faster. I still just recommend a small squirt of grease. The 6000 mile check is also for checking the smaller brake shoes. Again I would not lose a lot of sleep over this as no grease and tightening the axle nut to tight are the 2 most common reasons bearings fail. If you do a lot of interstate traveling brake shoes last a long time verses city stop and go. Hope this helps Art

Nomad

Not really loosing any sleep, just had mine greased, but seems odd and even the maintenance guy that did mine asked why at 6K. Seems almost arbitrary :-)

irvingj

6K may be arbitrary, but not a bad idea, IMO. I hit mine when I first bought it, and also adjusted the brakes at the same time. Haven't really touched it since then, but maybe only about 4K miles on it since…

Had a '72 Blazer for over 30 years, and THAT one I cleaned & re-packed the bearings about once every 2 years. Many of today's cars have "lifetime sealed" bearings, and many also have a combination bearing/housing that needs to be replaced in its entirety as opposed to disassembly/repair. Older vehicles, at least on the non-driven wheels, still had bearings you could get at.

Speaking of old: That grease seal I pictured above was a real improvement over what used to be used! Both my Dad's '52 Jag XK-120 (R.I.P.) and my '56 Piper Tri-Pacer use…. (wait for it…) FELT RINGS as grease seals. Average lifetime, maybe 3 years, which ain't many miles on airplane wheels! I'm told some tractors also use them.

Anyway, here's today's history-lesson-in-pics! (From the PA-22, whose grease seals of course were leaking like sieves when I bought it.)  Note the hollow axle, to save weight. Bearing "nut" was also a threaded ring, and brake drum is only about 1/16" thick.

ericnliz

Before the felt, some used cork, and even leather. I always questioned the leather "springs that they used to use, I believe if memory serves me right.. on Jaguars!

Jltab

I need guidance on kind or brand of grease to use, thanks

Dalehelman

Any auto parts store will have what you need. Ask for "trailer wheel bearing grease"

RZRBUG

Jltab said:

I need guidance on kind or brand of grease to use, thanks

This is what I use.  Purchased at local auto parts store.


It's my belief that you CAN put too much grease in.  If you fill it up, hit the road and heat it up, it may expand and ooze out the seal.

RZRBUG

Had mine checked at an RV shop recently, brakes and bearings.  The mechanic said no need to repack before 30,000 miles.  Well, that ain't happening.  I do mine once a year just because I want to and I can.  He also said the nut holding the bearings in was a little loose on both wheels, and he tightened them a little.  They were actually a little loose as he could wiggle them side-to-side by putting his hands on each side of the tire.  I watched all this although the sign said, "Employees Only."

If my health improves enough, I plan to head out to Colorado next month.  I'm taking extra bearings and grease....just because I want to and I can.

Cyclonic

Jltab said:

I need guidance on kind or brand of grease to use, thanks

The factory uses a lithium based grease.  Any brand will do.  I prefer Mobil myself.

John_and_Kris

I assume that Lithium is the same as a "Synthetic Auto Wheel Bearing Grease" as this is what Ed Kaufman said to use?

John_and_Kris

Another question We have the Al-Ko axless. Is there a difference between
1) "Ultrulube" and  2)"Ultra-Lube"? The description of the #1 says that there is no need to lift the trailer or turn the wheel on #2 work from PV is "take wheel off to get to rubber plug and then the zerk"
So I am totally confused?