All of a sudden the Alde's not working -- any ideas?

Chris_and_Sarah

Last week it was fine, this week it's not.

I'm getting no indication that it's even turning on -- I don't hear the water circulating through the coils at the back of the tab, or the gentle water movement sounds beneath the bench.  Also, nothing happens when I turn on the propane assist.  So I'm pretty sure it's not turning on.

I checked the fuses in the fuse box under the bench seat, and they all seem to be intact.  Any ideas?

ChanW

There are two fuses inside the Alde itself. 

Look at this thread:
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3512/fuses-for-newbies

Michigan_Mike

There's plenty of information available on this topic too if you use the search function located up in the right-hand corner of the forum discussion area.  This has been a very commonly discussed topic & question here on the forum and we have a ton of excellent information available.

One thing you might do when you are done using the Alde is to turn it off completely after use.  I learned this the hard way and had forgotten to manually turn the unit off, had left it on an after plugging in the trailer and flipping the breakers on the surge of voltage blew out one of the small fuses inside the top cover of the Alde unit.  They are very thin and are a quick trip style fuse and susceptible to such an event as well as differences in voltage.  An event such as lights going on and off during a storm is also a means of these fuses failing and I've had it happen while plugged into my 30 amp service on the side of my garage.    

I did buy a digital thermostat for my trailer, installed it and find it to be easier to operate and also find that the temperature variation is spot on and you can easily control all operating aspects of the Alde this way.  I'm also able to easily turn it on and off and do like the touch style thermostat.  

Tabster

In order for the Alde to work the T@b door must be fully closed and the deaadbolt engaged. 

Tabster

BAZINGA

j_ntabowners

M_M  where did you get your  digital thermostat?

JustJohn

C&S, Check your fuses very closely, they can appear to be good when actually blown. Took me two days and a lot of head scratching to figure that out. When in doubt, change them anyway and try the unit again. In spite of it's reputation on the forum, the Alde is a pretty simple unit and has only a couple of things that can stop it from working with fuses being the most common, coming unplugged is another and rarely a bad switch.

Michigan_Mike

j_ntabowners said:

M_M  where did you get your  digital thermostat?

You can buy the digital thermostat from the factory.  Check with Elsie Miller and the contact information is listed to the right in the discussion areas.  

j_ntabowners

Thank you

Michigan_Mike

You will need to enlarge the opening some where the old analog thermostat fits into place (can use a small keyhole saw to enlarge the opening some, etc.) but it really isn't that difficult.  Just measure the back of the new thermostat housing, pencil in the cut area and remove enough wood to place the digital thermostat in place.  The new thermostat also comes with a wood frame that will go around the outside of the new digital thermostat.  

Additionally you also will need to replace the existing analog control wire that runs down inside the wall and over to the Alde unit with a new control wire that comes with the digital thermostat.  The new control wire basically just plugs into the existing terminals on the top of the Alde unit after the old wiring is removed.  I did leave the old control wiring in place for a while to ensure things worked out, but cut the wiring out later on as it will not be needed.  

I did it and it's not a difficult task, but you will need to fish the new wiring down through the wall, into the bench area (I have a T@B Max S) where the electric converter sits and up into the Alde area.  

Chris_and_Sarah

@Tabster -- very funny.  Took me a minute!

Thanks for the info on the fuses.  They looked good but I replaced them anyway, and it's still not working  

I'll keep searching for a solution.

RollingLagrima

Reset/test GFI plug?

Photomom

RollingLagrima said:

Reset/test GFI plug?

This, and make sure the Alde is plugged into its outlet. It popped out once when we were on a bumpy road.

Tabaz

Please note the two Alde fuses located in the green holders are different types/amps.  When I ordered spare fuses from the factory, they only sent one size.  I imagine if you put a 3.15A fuse into the right side (for the 3.75A), it would blow.

JustJohn

Also don't forget to check the main fuse which goes to the plug, not just the fuses in the Alde.

ScottG

Chris_and_Sarah said:

...
Thanks for the info on the fuses.  They looked good but I replaced them anyway, and it's still not working  

I'll keep searching for a solution.

How are you powering it? Shore power or battery and propane (or both)? Does it not work at all on any setting?

ericnliz

Chris_and_Sarah, What year and model is your T@B? Like Photomom stated, check the Alde plug, mine was not all the way into the receptacle, and would not come on. It appeared to be plugged in, just not all the way, and once I pushed it all the way in, the Alde came right on. Also as stated above, breakers, [including the GFI, the one located on the drivers side wall by the converter], and fuses. Do you in fact have the digital thermostat that Michigan_Mike inquired about?

Chris_and_Sarah

@ericnliz , I've got a 2014 Max S.  I'm a bit confused about GFI -- is that the test/reset button that's on the outlets?  If so, the outlet that the Alde plugs into (under the seat) doesn't have the test/reset buttons.  I made sure that the outlet works though by testing my computer charger with it, and I also made sure the Alde plug is in all the way.

RollingLagrima

The GFI plug is NOT the one your Alde is plugged into under the back bench, but if tripped for some reason it will affect all outlets in the trailer. The outlet with the GFI in my 2016 is near the brown breaker box near the floor where the dinette table is supposed to go. Resetting/testing it is part of my pre-launch checklist.

Nomad

Yes, the GFI is the red button in the center of the one AC outlet. If you have power to the Alde, then that's not it.

ScottG

The GFI receptacle near the converter also protects the kitchen and exterior outlets (all of which are on the same circuit). The receptacle into which the Alde is plugged is on a different dedicated circuit and should not be affected by the GFI tripping. (The same is true for the air conditioner receptacle.)

Since you know you are getting power at the Alde's 120V receptacle, you should next check the 12V side. Are other 12V devices working (e.g., lights, fan, water pump)? If not, that points to a general problem with your converter. If so, check the specific circuit supplying the Alde.

Even if you are running on shore power, the Alde's electronics still require 12V from the converter to operate properly.

Nomad

Interesting ScottG - Thought the GFI affected all AC ircuits.

Photomom

PXLated said:

Interesting ScottG - Thought the GFI affected all AC ircuits.

Me too.

Chris_and_Sarah

@OutbackAZ , where did you get the info that they are different size fuses?

On my Alde unit it says they are both 3.15amp

Chris_and_Sarah

Also, what under bench fuse controls the Alde? Even though they all look good I'll replace that one too.

Tabaz

I simply pulled the fuses and read them under a magnifying glass. However, I did not notice the label stating that both fuses are 3.15 (per your photo). Just went out to my TAB and noticed the same label. Double-checked my Alde fuses and the right one says 3.75A. Perhaps that fuse is mis-marked?

Chris_and_Sarah

interesting indeed.  

I have to say that I'm unfamiliar with these slow-blow fuses.  Apart from rare cases, it should be fairly obvious when the fuse is blown, no?  Like that metal strip would be broken?

Certainly I'd be willing to try a 3.75 fuse on the right side...anything to get it working again!  I didn't check the old fuse I pulled out before I threw it away -- can anyone else corroborate that they have two 3.15amp fuses, and not a 3.15 and a 3.75?

ChanW

Both fuses in our Alde are 3.15.

However, I did miss-read it once, thinking it said 3.75...

Tabaz

What about the different markings? "T" vs "F" and "P" vs. "LAC."

Verna

Chris_and_Sarah said:

interesting indeed.  

I have to say that I'm unfamiliar with these slow-blow fuses.  Apart from rare cases, it should be fairly obvious when the fuse is blown, no?  Like that metal strip would be broken?

Certainly I'd be willing to try a 3.75 fuse on the right side...anything to get it working again!  I didn't check the old fuse I pulled out before I threw it away -- can anyone else corroborate that they have two 3.15amp fuses, and not a 3.15 and a 3.75?

The "metal strip" (filament) is so fine, it is hard to tell when it is blown. I use a volt/ohm (multimeter) to check for an "open". If it is "open", it is blown. 

Both of my fuses are identical 3.15 amp fuses. 

ScottG

Photomom said:

PXLated said:

Interesting ScottG - Thought the GFI affected all AC ircuits.

Me too.

It shouldn't. If you look at your AC breaker panel, you'll see the cabin receptacles are on a single circuit. The GFI receptacle is first in line on that circuit--the others (kitchen, outside, etc.) are wired "downstream" and are all protected by this first one.

High power-demand 120V appliances like the Alde, A/C, and fridge have their own dedicated receptacle on their own circuits with their own circuit breakers. While these receptacles could have their own GFI protection, they typically don't

So, while it won't hurt anything to poke at the buttons on the GFI receptacle, unfortunately it will not provide an easy fix to your Alde woes.