Inverter Install question

HR_Taly

Hi all - I'm considering installing a 1500w pure sine inverter in my T@B.  I absolutely know that using an inverter is very inefficient energy wise.  I will be doing rather extended boondocking for several weeks/months at a time (with a fairly beefy battery bank and solar system) and this will be for work not vacation.

When ordering my T@B there seemed to be some confusion that an inverter couldn't be wired in to one of the existing 110v outlets, and instead the inverter would have to be placed in an area where I could access the outlets on it directly.  

Looking through it, it does look possible but rather complicated (i.e. $$) to hardwire it in.  I'm considering placing an inverter in the lower of the two cabinets in the kitchen area of the 2017 T@B Max S (where the water tank was in prior versions) and plugging items in directly.

Has anyone done this?  

In searching, I found a post that indicated the cabinets should be at least 16" deep (http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3435/under-sink-cabinet-drawer-and-shelf).  Can anyone confirm?

Thanks!

Tabaz

Yes. I installed a 4000W inverter with a dedicated 110V outlet on the driver's side seat pedestal. I use it to run a small microwave and other electronics. Not that hard to do.

wizard1880

With that size of inverter, you'll need the batteries to back it up.  A single group 24 is reliably capable of delivering maybe 50A for brief bursts, which limits you to 300-400w and 600w peak on an inverter. Any more and your battery will only survive a season or two.

With a 2-golf cart battery setup, you can safely run a 1000w inverter but only at maximum load for brief bursts.  Maybe enough for a tiny 700w (1000w consumed) microwave or small 850w toaster.

If you really want to utilize the maximum 1500w load on your inverter, you're going to need either a 4-battery setup or expensive lithium batteries.  I recommend against this size for our small T@Bs.

You can do it, but don't plan on running a microwave on it.

Tabaz

I have a standard Group 27 battery with a 200W Zamp solar system.  I also have a BMV 700 battery monitor.  Never use a generator and boondock all the time. Runs the microwave just fine and the Zamp recharges the battery fairly quickly.  Very happy with the performance after a year of use. 

wizard1880

Didn't say you couldn't, but that heavy load on the battery is slowly warping the plates inside ... If you check with the battery specifications you'll see the recommended max discharge rates, which are lower than the 100+ Amps that the microwave takes...!

Other than Lithium batteries, some AGMs will be OK with high amp drains as well.

A battery will last 7-14 years with good care.  Ensure your setup follows the battery specs and you should be fine.

Vermonster

HR-taly, I've studied your question several times about hardwiring an inverter to an existing outlet and am not sure if you propose to leave the outlet also connected to the t@bs electrical system.  If so that raises all kinds of red flags.  If you plan to disconnect the outlet from the camper and make it a dedicated outlet for the inverter I wouldnt think there would be a problem with that.

marknjudy

I'm curious. Couldn't this be done by using a switch of sufficient current handling capability that allows only one or the other power source to feed the AC outlets? It wouldnjave to be configured sonthat there was no way to have both feeding at the same time. They do something like that with generators and home circuit panels, I believe. 

Dalehelman

I could just install a separate  dedicated outlet for the inverter. You could also separate the top and bottom outlets so that one is Shore power and one is inverter.

wizard1880

Many large RV inverters, like the xantrex, are designed to integrate with your existing wiring, and effectively turns your electrical system into a UPS.  When plugged in, it charges the battery.  It would replace the built-in WFCO converter too.  They are not cheap though, and the built in charging is 100a or so. 

HR_Taly

@Vermonster interesting idea - since I will rarely (if ever) have the luxury of being hooked up to shore power, it might indeed be an interesting idea to make one outlet be a dedicated outlet to the inverter.  Doing this would mean it wouldn't work if connected to shore power, or a generator, which I'd be fine with.

Similar to @Dalehelman 's idea.  Install a new separate dedicated outlet for the inverter (or split a current outlet).  That's an interesting thought, too!

Hmm... lots to think about here! And some great ideas I hadn't thought of!  Thanks T@B Hive Mind Collective!

Vermonster

HR-taly, a couple of more thoughts (maybe you've got enough to think about already!).  I have an 1100 watt inverter that I use quite a bit both camping and on remote job sites.  Since I want to be able to use it in a variety of applications I stick with the alligator clips.  In fact while camping I tend to use it off the truck instead of the camper battery.  Easy to recharge that way (start the truck when it gets down to 12.2 volts).  I don't carry a generator and don't feel the need to at this point.  Yes it does mean stringing an extension cord to the camper but to me that's a small trade off for keeping things flexible. 

Tabaz

Here is my set up. Direct connection from the battery to the 2000W inverter in a case in front of the propane tub (didn't want the inverter in the same location as the propane for safety reasons).  Dedicated 12 gauge line from the inverter to a separate outlet in the cabin. Separate phone line cord from the remote on/off inverter switch to the inverter.  Had to drill a 1/2" hole in the floor of the T@B just in front of the driver's side wheel well to access the pedestal.  Maybe this will give you some ideas.

Tabaz

Just ran a test using the microwave on High for 3 minutes on battery power.  Started with a battery at 100.0% and 12.58 Volts.  At the end of 3 minutes, the battery was at 90.0% and 12.16 Volts (and rising slowly).  Does anyone see a problem with this?

HR_Taly

@OutbackAZ you really have a fantastic setup! Wow.  Absolutely great, exactly what I'd love to have.  

Is that a Microsolar inverter?  They are at a great price on Amazon at the moment (~$200), which is a huge savings over the GoPowers and the likes that are ~$500.  That's such a great price I was tempted to go ahead and buy it now.  Do you like yours?

Tabaz

HR - yes, Microsolar from Amazon ($219).  Very happy with it.  Bought in February 2016.  The 2000W is too large for the cabinets under the 3-W frig and the sink.  If you're thinking of getting a smaller size, those spaces may work.  Also factor in clearance for the wires into and out of the inverter (especially the thick ones from the battery).  The 2000W will easily fit in the Outback propane tub on top of the battery, but there was some discussion about having a running electrical device near the propane cylinder and regulator - hence the separate box. 

Nomad

OutbackAZ - Interesting... three minutes of microwaving takes it down to what several hours of Alde, fridge, and the rear reading lights do on mine. Usually end up at 12.2 at bedtime and still sitting there in the morning.

jkjenn

@HR_Taly let me throw an alternative at you.

I worked FT from my T@b this summer. I had to keep my laptop, work iPad, cell phone booster and phone charged as well as my Surface Pro, and photo gear charged, so I might understand a bit of what you are trying to achieve. I boondocked and recharged exclusively from solar.

I took a bit of a hybrid approach. I used the dual GC battery set-up plus I augmented with portable battery packs that had inverters. I also invested in some 12v adapters for my laptop, Surface Pro, and photo batteries. The work ipad and phone already had 12v and usb charging capabilities. I used Goal Zero gear, but there are now some other similar types of battery/generators available.

What I liked was that I could charge those battery packs from the T@b battery (thus using solar), using the 12v outlets in my TV if I was going to be driving, or from the AC outlet in my TV. I was really paranoid about running out of juice because that was not an option for work, so I probably went overkill.

Nomad

Same as Jenn - Charge all my iDevices via USB. Computer, camera batteries and all my other A/C rechargables via a small 400 watt inverter all off the single T@B battery which is recharged via solar.
Also have a 400 watt inverter in the TV if I want to charge from there.
Don't work  :-)  from the road but could without a problem.