Photos of the T@B's Trim Anyone?

sabel

I'm planning on completely removing the exterior plastic edge trim from the upper corners of our Outback and leave the roof-wall joints exposed. There's just too many cracks in the plastic to repair or replace. Does anyone have photos of what the joint looks like under the plastic? How ugly is it going to be? Are there waterproof issues to deal with? I'm just getting tired of dealing with the cracks.
Thanks for the advice in advance.

Cyclonic

My understanding is that the trim is the for aesthetic reasons only.  You should have no problems with removing it.  I don't know how it will look though.

Tabaz

Here is a photo of the bottom trim removed.  Pretty ugly.  You would need to somehow scrap the caulking off the painted side wall with damaging it.  Also, the Keder rail screws hold the trim on.

Tabaz

Another photo.  This site is not letting me upload more than one photo per post.

sabel

Thanks for the photos. Thants about what I thought.

Nomad

The only other trim cracking I can recall being reported has been small cracks at the top roof seam. You can order new trim pieces from the factory. In fact you might call them, send them pics and see if they've ever had any other reports of cold doing that.

Tabaz

Others with the black trim have had problems with cracking. 

Ratkity

The factory said the silver ones had issues too earlier on (supposedly not in the 16's onward)

hymie

What year is your t@b?

sabel

Ours is a 2015 with black trim.  Went through last winter with just cracks at the top joint. No temperatures below single digets. This winter dipped into the -20 temperatures. 
I haven't checked for cracks in the other plastic parts. It's at a local rv dealer having the wheels greased. 

Ratkity

Brrrrrr -20??? 

Mariner459

Found a small fracture in that trim on our silver 2017 max s. We thought it was from someone over tightening a fastener nearby.

sabel

Mariner,
What was your weather like this winter?

Sherry

We just bought a 2006. Is there anyway to repair the cracks on the trim? Any epoxy that is recommended?

Tabaz

I've used JB Weld on a minor crack. It dries to a light grey color. Use it on the inside of the crack so as not to be visible.

gulfarea

Sherry I have worked with fiberglass & epoxy for years building boats & RC airplanes. It is very easy to do. I STRONGLY suggest you use epoxy not fiberglass resin. I use Z-Poxy finishing resin. All you have to do is clean & lightly sand the plastic, apply the epoxy with a disposable brush. I would also glass the underside of the trim pieces. Then rattle can paint of your choice. Hope this helps Art

Runtarooti

I am a newb, and I have assumed the trim is Injection molded ABS.  ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is a thermoplastic, that is opaque, impact resistant with a glass transition temp of 221 deg F. This means it  can be heat welded with a sodering iron, kind of ugly repair, but easily sanded and painted or resurfaced.
https://youtu.be/kibSo9JqWyo

Even better, it is easily solvent bonded with acetone or MEK (thin), or ABS pipe cement (viscous) Some "scraps" can be dissolved in the solvent and used as a glue if gaps need to be filled. Thin syringes (insulin type) can be used as capillary applicators, ideal for thin cracks.
Superglue can be used too, but is brittle.
These articles helps to understand solvent welding and re-surfacing.
https://depts.washington.edu/open3dp/2012/05/abs-solvents-4-good-ideas/
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=1322

If trim is NOT ABS, ignore all of the above  and think "oh those newbs, they need so much help, while shaking your head, and muttering tsk, tsk."

Michigan_Mike

I haven't removed any of  the trim yet and for those who have, is the black rubber seal easily removed along the outside edge?  is it glued at any point? Is there a trick to removing it and lets say, tightening down the trim screws should a piece appear to move?   I've been tempted to look at it closer (curiosity) and disassemble it, but sometimes and as the old saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't mess with it!"  

I did speak to the factory just over a week ago and was told that the seal does nothing more than provide some stability to the trim and has no sealing application to keep water out, etc. so not top worry if it appears to have a small gap, etc.  

Comments???  

Tabaz

The plastic trim is held in place by screws in the aluminum Keder rail. The factory uses a rope caulk between the trim and body of the Tab. The caulk is actually a 1/2" wide tape that is very flexible. There is no glue. The screws go into the laminate veneer body and into the foam substrate. NOT conducive to removing and reinstalling. God forbid you need to replace the Keder rail. The factory bends it to match the plastic trim during construction. They will send you one that is not pre-bent. Never, ever damage any of your Keder rails.

ColoradoJon

My trailer is less than a year old and I had a piece crack completely through.  It was the rear, passenger side at the top, about 10" from the seam.  A new piece was shipped to me from the warranty department and I replaced it myself in about one hour.  Removed the keder rail which, as OutbackAZ posted, is mounted over the trim piece.  Here is a pic of the broken trim:

jkjenn

ColoradoJon said:

My trailer is less than a year old and I had a piece crack completely through.  It was the rear, passenger side at the top, about 10" from the seam.  A new piece was shipped to me from the warranty department and I replaced it myself in about one hour.  Removed the keder rail which, as OutbackAZ posted, is mounted over the trim piece.  Here is a pic of the broken trim:

Yikes. Should be a warranty fix.

ColoradoJon

Yep, it was a warranty fix.  Very happy with the experience and the part was shipped promptly and arrive in less than one week.  If I was closer to my dealer I would have brought it in, but I'm two hours away (one way), and the fix was simple enough.  Tinkering with the T@B is always good fun anyway

jkjenn

ColoradoJon said:

Yep, it was a warranty fix.  Very happy with the experience and the part was shipped promptly and arrive in less than one week.  If I was closer to my dealer I would have brought it in, but I'm two hours away (one way), and the fix was simple enough.  Tinkering with the T@B is always good fun anyway

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