Rear panel heat slots?

USWildflowers

I was planning on using a spade bit for holes in the back shelf. Here's an article on methods to avoid splintering the wood - including the tape suggestion Sgtjohn brought up. Basically blue painters tape on top, clamp the board to a waste backer, and drill away.

Nomad

Sgtjohn - Did that - still got splintering, the plywood seems overly susceptible on the back. I managed to only get it on a couple holes on the good side and the routing eliminated those.

Sgtjohn

Sometimes one can use a sharp knife-somewhat like  a box knife-to cut the top laminate layer and it shouldn't splinter.  Before I cut a finished piece of plywood, I cut right beside (on the part I want to keep) the blade and cut on that line, no splintering.  I'm not an expert by any sense of the word but like most folks-I've been around the block a couple of times-trial and effort repeatedly gets the job done.

Jeanne

just erased my previous comment after enlarging your picture. Think this is our next project. 

Photomom

jkjenn said:

I wonder if it wouldn't make sense to add a regular vent to that board sow it could be opened and closed? I think you could probably find one that worked with filters if dust and dirt a re a concern.

I don't generally travel with a lot of stuff like flower and sugar, but do have canned goods and other food that could go back there. I am also winding if a cargo net to keep everything in place would be a good idea. You could easily use hook eyes at the top to secure it.

Perhaps a regular floor vent or two would work. It would cover any splintering or other cutting issues and could be closed to keep stuff from falling in. Like this, but there are several styles: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TruAire-4-in-x-10-in-Brown-Floor-Diffuser-H150MB-04X10/202525038

Nomad

I first thought of doing vents but they took up too much room - I wanted to use that shelf - and I thought the bigger holes might weaken the board.

Pop-T@B

I was wondering if the heat would be blocked by the bedding, I have not had mine out in cold weather yet. I like this idea. I went with a router with a 3/8" wide bit. I covered the top of the board with painter tape marked out 2 slots 20" long and 10" off each end. I have a rip fence on my router so I set it 1" back from the front edge to make the straight cut, I did a plunge cut to get started and made my cuts. There was no chipping of the veneer do to the painters tape. Everything went well and the slots look like the factory ones. I covered the bottom with screen to prevent anything from falling thru. Thanks for the great idea!!!  

Nomad

Glad it worked out.

Jeanne

Pop-T@B, can you post a picture. My husband wants slots instead of holes. I would like to see yours. 

Pop-T@B

Jeanne, here are the pic's you requested, Thanks

Jeanne

Pop-T@B looks good. Did you install the outlets also?  

Nomad

My concern with slots was that so much heat gets trapped under that shelf that I didn't think slots would vent enough. I removed the shelf completely for a couple of days and there was a big difference in 10 degree weather so I went with the largest holes I could and still use the shelf.

Pop-T@B

Yes, I did install outlets, we wanted a place to plug in cell phones and things at night so we did not have to get out of bed if we needed them

Pop-T@B

update on the rear shelf, I liked PXLated idea so much, I took his idea an ran with it( thank you PLX! ). I went to IKEA an bought 2- Kuartal 55" long curtain rods ( $5.99 ea), use one full length, then cut a piece off the second one 15-3/16" long, use the supplied connector to splice them together. Then I used 4- Kuartal mounting brackets ($2.50 ea), they are spaced 3" off each end then the middle two are 24.5" from each end. this will give you an even spacing of 21.5" center to center. I only have one bin for the shelf, need to pick up 3 more, they are from Target.  Total build cost $23.51 not counting the bins from Target, I still need to pick them up

 

Nomad

Cool - Looks good.

Jeanne

Love it. You just saved me $$$. Hopefully I can find it online, or I will have to add in a trip. 

Norbert1223

You guys are so clever.  

Debbie

RollingLagrima

jkjenn said:

A hole saw can be attached as a drill bit, and it cuts a perfectly round hole. They come in many different sizes. http://youtu.be/Td6m_ukCu0A

That looks simple enough even for me! All these things you cold weather folk think of that us warmies haven't even contemplated.  I have never even turned the Alde on yet (hot water or heat), but my time is coming. It never occured to me that bedding could block the heat from rising into the cabin. I will definately have issues as my pillows are right up against that shelf.  Thanks for the slot/hole ideas with pictures even!

Nomad

Not sure I'd use a "hole saw", the teeth are a little rough for finish work - especially on plywood with a thin veneer. Look for a Forsner bit, that's what cabinet guys use - come in various shapes but generally look like this...




Used that hat on my vents and again a couple days ago making the hole for my fridge fan switch.

Dalehelman

I just lift mine up an inch or two and prop it open. 

Nomad

That'd work if I didn't have all kinds of stuff on the shelf.

Shadrax

I added this small fan to the front wall of the lower rear storage area under the back seat next to the table mount along with a remote switch.  This circulates the warm air from the rear radiator and hoses towards the front of the trailer along the floor.  If only I could warm the shower stall!   

DaveAnna

Did this on 2021 320. No more dropped items in the “hole”. Also it keeps us knowing when we pile too much stuff and block heat