Water Pressure Issue

LauraRey

Hi Folks,

I've spent my day troubleshooting the lack of water pressure in the T@B.  It was acting like the filter was plugged: it would have great pressure for about 5-10 seconds, then fade.  I took off the filter and cleaned it out.  Yes, there was some debris in it.  After cleaning it, I put it back on, topped off the fresh water tank, and started up the pump.  Same thing happened.  (I explained to the pump that this was inappropriate behaviour at this point.)

Then, after chatting with Jill and Dale (thanks to them both), we disconnected the input line and ran a hose from a full bucket of water to the pump.  Switched on the pump, and Voila!  The pump was fine.  

We also inserted a valve between the water filter and hose that allows us to connect a hose to prime the pump, if needed.  We primed the system. Still didn't work.

So, that leaves an issue between the fresh water tank and the pump.  As Dale mentioned, it is most likely a plug of some sort.  Having never investigated this before, we ran a borescope from both the inside (top down) and from the fresh water intake, in.  Unfortunately, the run was longer than our scope cable.  So, it didn't yield much.  

At this point, is there anything else I can do short of taking off the undercover and removing the fresh water tank?

Does anyone know if there is a filter or screen between the tank and the line running up to the filter and pump?  If so, where is it located?

Thanks,
Laura

Michigan_Mike

LauraRey said:

At this point, is there anything else I can do short of taking off the undercover and removing the fresh water tank?

Does anyone know if there is a filter or screen between the tank and the line running up to the filter and pump?  If so, where is it located?

Thanks,
Laura

There isn't an additional filter between the fresh water tank and the pump filter.   If I was experiencing this scenario I would probably take an air compressor and try blowing out the line from the pump back into the FW tank.  It sounds like there is debris clogging this line.,  

jgram2

@Michigan_Mike and @LauraRey, then what? If debris is blown back into the FW tank and if the drain isn't located on the bottom of the tank, even draining the tank would not necessarily get rid of the debris. Unless the borescope was also equipped with a vacuum, how do you get rid of the debris without removing the tank?

Michigan_Mike

Twojgrams said:

@Michigan_Mike and @LauraRey, then what? If debris is blown back into the FW tank and if the drain isn't located on the bottom of the tank, even draining the tank would not necessarily get rid of the debris. Unless the borescope was also equipped with a vacuum, how do you get rid of the debris without removing the tank?

Good question!   I'd probably try opening up the gray drain valve behind the step, blowing the water out from the pump intake hose, back through the FW tank as that's about all you can do, minus removing the FW tank which would be a difficult and tedious project at best.  I have seen junk in the screen and cannot verify it is a factory issue or a result of the tank manufacturing process.  This is obviously of concern to factory reps and I've discussed it with them and they are taking precautions and creating an awareness on their end as well.  

ericnliz

@Michigan_Mike, Did you mean to say fresh water drain valve? (behind the step) I know on our trailer, that valve was extremely slow to drain. I took a look inside, and saw some debris blocking it, and use a straightened metal coat hanger to clear it out. Drains a lot better now. After I discovered the debris, I also filled through the fresh water fill, and left that valve open during the fill while still letting the water run. Even more debris came out. Kind of a precaution rinse, if you will. I still do this once in awhile, usually when I sanitize the fresh water tank, during the first rinse. Can't hurt, but might help.

Michigan_Mike

@ericnliz  exactly!  I'm sure that depending on what system you have attached the city water hose to for the trailer that debris comes in the trailer 

LauraRey

Thank you @Michigan_Mike and @ericnliz when I get home I'll try blowing out the system backwards.  I've noticed that the fresh water drain is very slow so I'll also do the coat hanger trick.

Michigan_Mike

Another thing you can use is the plastic weed whip line for weed edgers as it is great for small areas like this.  I've used it on my outboard motor to clear a water cooling line that was plugged up with silt and debris.  

BirdieJane

We have had this problem, tried everything. Then we came home from a trip, went to dump black and grey water at Camping World. They have a ramp to drive the passenger tire on top of for a complete dump and Shazam!! Turned on the water problem solved. Has not been back yet.

ChanW

Excellent point @BirdieJane.
Note: "Shazam!" must be added to new Tab owners' vocabulary. 

ericnliz

@BirdieJane,  & @ChanW , Yep, "Shazam" needs to go in to the T@B University dictionary of useful descriptions!! Just wondering if driving the passenger wheel up on the ramp, raising the passenger side caused any debris to move out of the intake for the pump, as well as the fresh water drain, allowing the water a clog-free access. I know the stuff I saw coming out was a Styrofoam type packing material, the small round balls.
@LauraRey, When @Dalehelman & I "backflushed" @Aussie's Outback system with a small compressor Dale had on hand, there was debris coming out of the fresh water fill. Just leave the fill cap open, and allow it to purge itself out. While you're in that location, check the little vent hole at the top of the freshwater fill, and make sure that it is also clear. Mine had a little of the packing material in there as well. Let us know about your progress, and what actually fixes the issue please. Thanks.

Ratkity

Just be aware, some T@Bs have their water tank vented downward underneath and slightly to the left of the water fill. The screened vent hole in the fill area went nowhere (no tubing). I had to crawl underneath the T@B and follow the tubing. No covering underneath for the 2015 early models. 

I, too, pressurized the system and a little plug of dirt came out of the vent tubing (after cleaning the pump filter). I did mine differently because I replaced my fresh water fill with a cap version (it was the flap version). I have a fresh water jug with a spout that fits perfectly and seals itself inside the fill entrance. Water pressure just from the filled water jug popped a little plug of dirt from the vent tubing.

With the Toy Hauler, the *39* gallon fresh water system needed emptying because I was going to be parked for the two hottest months of the year. The fresh water fill was exactly like on the T@B except the air vent hose was in the fill area where the screen is..... It drained as slow as molasses in January! I went to HD and got a drill pump (found in sump pump area). It was cheap, but effective. Rednecked (now a verb, btw) a connection setup to the fresh water drain and turned on the drill. 30 min later (it was a slow drill), two and a half batteries and one sore trigger finger.... the tank was empty. Except I had to flush it again. This time, the Amazon heavier duty drill pump had arrived. I used that and a faster drill (2800 rpm) and that sucker (pun) was empty in less than 15 minutes (still had a sore finger). After those two flushes, I filled the tank again and let it gravity drain. What a difference!!

BTW, the fresh water tank on the TH flexes quite a bit. I didn't notice it as much with the T@B's 11 gallon tank, but I saw it happen a bit when I over filled it with the jug nozzle sealing the cap fill. Water will come back out of both the water fill and the vent hose. Think of it as your personal shoe wash - uh, depending on how much you fill it and where you are standing!

Sandiegogal

LauraRey said:

Hi Folks,

I've spent my day troubleshooting the lack of water pressure in the T@B.  It was acting like the filter was plugged: it would have great pressure for about 5-10 seconds, then fade.  I took off the filter and cleaned it out.  Yes, there was some debris in it.  After cleaning it, I put it back on, topped off the fresh water tank, and started up the pump.  Same thing happened.  (I explained to the pump that this was inappropriate behaviour at this point.)

Then, after chatting with Jill and Dale (thanks to them both), we disconnected the input line and ran a hose from a full bucket of water to the pump.  Switched on the pump, and Voila!  The pump was fine.  

We also inserted a valve between the water filter and hose that allows us to connect a hose to prime the pump, if needed.  We primed the system. Still didn't work.

So, that leaves an issue between the fresh water tank and the pump.  As Dale mentioned, it is most likely a plug of some sort.  Having never investigated this before, we ran a borescope from both the inside (top down) and from the fresh water intake, in.  Unfortunately, the run was longer than our scope cable.  So, it didn't yield much.  

At this point, is there anything else I can do short of taking off the undercover and removing the fresh water tank?

Does anyone know if there is a filter or screen between the tank and the line running up to the filter and pump?  If so, where is it located?

Thanks,
Laura

@dsatwork...do you want to chime in here with our experience?

dsatwork

@LauraRey as my wife said we had the same exact issue.
The first thing I did was let the fresh water drain out overnight.
Next I used an air compressor to blow out the line back into the fresh water tank by pulling off the hose that connects to the water filter.
That brought the constant water pressure back and then I ran about three tanks of water cleaning the filter each time.
We haven't had an issue since.
This is cause by debris that is left in the tank during manufacturing.
never seems like much all at once but it stops the flow some how.

Hope that helps.

ChanW

@Ratkity brings up an important point re:the vent hole in the filler neck on the earlier LG Tab. The actual FW tank vent on these Tabs also is the overflow for the FW tank, and exits out the front center bottom of the Tab. 

On our FW filler fitting, the 'vent' was also just an open hole, with no vent hose connected in the back of the fitting. Problem is, with the hole open, while filling the FW tank with a garden hose via that filler neck, the water tends to go into that hole, ending up inside the wall behind the toilet.

I plugged that hole in ours with some goop. 

@Ratkity, you mention a plug of dirt being forced out of your vent/overflow tube. I wonder if it was actually a plug from a mud-dauber wasp? We've put screens on hose ends and all other openings on the Tab (fridge vents, Alde exhaust, etc) that would attract these creative creatures. Also don't want those dang Asian lady-beetles to make a winter home - both are problems here in the Northeast.

dsatwork

ChanW said:

@Ratkity brings up an important point re:the vent hole in the filler neck on the earlier LG Tab. The actual FW tank vent on these Tabs also is the overflow for the FW tank, and exits out the front center bottom of the Tab. 

On our FW filler fitting, the 'vent' was also just an open hole, with no vent hose connected in the back of the fitting. Problem is, with the hole open, while filling the FW tank with a garden hose via that filler neck, the water tends to go into that hole, ending up inside the wall behind the toilet.

I plugged that hole in ours with some goop. 

@Ratkity, you mention a plug of dirt being forced out of your vent/overflow tube. I wonder if it was actually a plug from a mud-dauber wasp? We've put screens on hose ends and all other openings on the Tab (fridge vents, Alde exhaust, etc) that would attract these creative creatures. Also don't want those dang Asian lady-beetles to make a winter home - both are problems here in the Northeast.

In the 2017 the air vent sputters and spits the for the entire fill. You really need a small adapter hose to get it inside the neck of the fill spout, to keep water for entering the blow hole.

LauraRey

Ok, I used my air pump and blew out the hose.  I also drained and refilled the tank.  It's better now, but I still suspect that there is some debris in the tank.  I've ordered a longer borescope cable so I can get a better look inside.  If I find anything else worth sharing, I'll add it to the thread.  Michigan_Mike said:

This is obviously of concern to factory reps and I've discussed it with them and they are taking precautions and creating an awareness on their end as well.  

Thanks @Michigan_Mike for discussing this issue with them.  They make such an exceptional product that hopefully raising awareness may prevent this in the future.

I greatly appreciate you all sharing your experiences.  

Ratkity

@ChanW Most mud dabbers nests wouldn't fit in the tubing, but they could've tried. I think it was more of a traveling-down-muddy-roads issue. No matter the cause, I still sprayed bug spray around the tube entrance. I was going to put mesh screen over the tube, but never got "round tuit"

ChanW

Aha. Understand re the tuit...

Cherokee

The same thing happened on my trailer and after a day of attempting easy solutions like cleaning the filter I did this the next day:

After checking the filter to confirm that it was still clear of debris, I went to the trailer store and bought two 1/2" water hoses 2' long and fittings to attach to the pump. Then I filled one gallon jug full and one with only a few inches of water. I removed the water lines (both intake and output) from the pump and attached my short lines. I turned on the pump after placing the line connected to the inlet into the full jug and the output into the the other. The pump quickly started transferring water from one to the other. PUMP WORKS FINE!

Next, I reconnected the pump's output line to the trailer's system, but the pump couldn't move any water from the full jug into the plumping system. I re-disconnected the output line from the pump and opened all the taps before filling the line with compressed air from my portable compressor. I reassembled the system, turned the pump on again, and the system performed as it should with the pump cycling with the opening and closing of taps. Burped by a Smitty-built 12v compressor //;-)