Resurrecting this thread, need some ideas. We had a big wind storm yesterday and lost power. It was out 3 days last time so I decided to go out and fire up the T@B fridge in case we needed to move some stuff out there. Tried several times, green light never came on. It was windy and cold and getting dark so I gave up.
Power is back but I still want this to work. Today I tried some of the voodoo, ran the stove for a while, ran the Alde on propane for a bit. The green light is coming on but not staying on after I release the button. After several attempts, the green light comes on within a couple seconds. I've held the button in for varying amounts of time from the recommended 15 seconds to nearly a minute. I even prechilled the fridge on 120v and then tried to light it because someone said that worked once. The green light always goes off as soon as I release the red button.
The fridge has always worked PERFECTLY on 120v and 12v, and we did use it on propane for a weekend last summer. Any ideas to try next? Sacrifice a chicken under the full moon? I have the troubleshooting chart but really don't want to tear the kitchen apart, it goes to winter storage in less than 2 weeks.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
If after holding the red button in for at least one minute and the green light is on and then goes out . It is most likely the Thermocoupler is malfunctioning. The part is not expensive but is does require the removal of the fridge because the burner is clear in the back. Unless you have the new version where's the burner is on the right side.
You can't actually see the flame. The green light is a type of fiber optics that transmits the light of the actual flame to the control panel. The thermal coupler tells the gas valve that the pilot light has lit. If the coupler malfunctions once you release the red button the pilot god out.
Yellow arrow in the photo is the thermocouple fitting that sometimes comes loose.
I hope you a right. Tightening that would be an easy fix. My guess is it's the other end of the copper tubing that is the problem. Generally replacement of the whole coupler is needed.
We've used the fridge on propane for 3 days total, I can't imagine that the thermocoupler has gone bad. I can see that it might have loosened up; there have been several times we've driven on roads so bumpy the interior of the cab was in severe disarray when we arrived. In any case, I'll report what I find.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
We’ve had very similar symptoms...when there is even a light wind. No wind...no problem. I’ve thought about changing those (2) vents on the front to something that’s blocked on 3 sides but open on the bottom...
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
We’ve had very similar symptoms...when there is even a light wind. No wind...no problem. I’ve thought about changing those (2) vents on the front to something that’s blocked on 3 sides but open on the bottom...
Those vents on the front are exhaust vents for carbon monoxide. Be very careful when considering any modifications to them.
@Photomom, I had trouble getting ours lit when it was brand new (used only once, or twice). When I took the stove top off, to inspect the propane hoses (during the hose recall), I made a point of checking everything while I had the stove top off. My thermocoupler fitting was about a quarter to half a turn loose, so as @Tabaz stated, good place to start. Just don't overtighten, the fitting should be "snug". I'm hoping it's a quick & easy fix for you & please let us know what you find. Thanks.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
We’ve had very similar symptoms...when there is even a light wind. No wind...no problem. I’ve thought about changing those (2) vents on the front to something that’s blocked on 3 sides but open on the bottom...
It was VERY windy Sunday evening (that's why we lost power) but not on Monday afternoon. I'd be concerned about modifying those for safety reasons.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
Note to self Remember that when you start a new discussion on this board and forget to turn off "notifications" on your cell phone at night, you will get 16+ BEEPS when forum members respond to your discussion... starting at 5:47am. Good thing I'm retired and can take a nap later on.
P.S. My resolution was that I hadn't turned on the battery!
2017 white/black trim T@B Outback; 2017 white Subaru Outback; Seattle
Took a brief hiatus while we snuck in a couple of end of season camping trips. Finally got back to this issue today - unfortunately I found the thermocouple fitting under the stovetop to be nice and tight. RATS! And everything I could see looked okay visually. Thanks for the ideas.
T@B goes to winter storage this Saturday and will have to get back to this in April. Will need to run the fridge on propane for an Adirondack trip in June!
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
It always makes me sad to hear that Tabs are going into storage.
2017 Tab Basic S Silver on Silver with Sofitel Cushions....upgraded from 2013 LG 5W....Towed by a 2016 Sorento V6 AWD w/5000lb tow capacity. Dave S. married to Jen aka SanDiegoGal We pull a Tab but live in a 2014 Airstream International Signature 27 FBQ...Talk about embracing a trailer lifestyle.
It always makes me sad to hear that Tabs are going into storage.
I’m not inclined to get out there and remove the snow from the T@B roof every time we get a foot or two.
Oh no...I get it...just means they are getting out till Spring. The part of living Southern California I love...camping year round.
2017 Tab Basic S Silver on Silver with Sofitel Cushions....upgraded from 2013 LG 5W....Towed by a 2016 Sorento V6 AWD w/5000lb tow capacity. Dave S. married to Jen aka SanDiegoGal We pull a Tab but live in a 2014 Airstream International Signature 27 FBQ...Talk about embracing a trailer lifestyle.
Comments
Power is back but I still want this to work. Today I tried some of the voodoo, ran the stove for a while, ran the Alde on propane for a bit. The green light is coming on but not staying on after I release the button. After several attempts, the green light comes on within a couple seconds. I've held the button in for varying amounts of time from the recommended 15 seconds to nearly a minute. I even prechilled the fridge on 120v and then tried to light it because someone said that worked once. The green light always goes off as soon as I release the red button.
The fridge has always worked PERFECTLY on 120v and 12v, and we did use it on propane for a weekend last summer. Any ideas to try next? Sacrifice a chicken under the full moon? I have the troubleshooting chart but really don't want to tear the kitchen apart, it goes to winter storage in less than 2 weeks.
What exactly does the green light represent?
I do have the old 3163 everyone loves to hate.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
Yellow arrow in the photo is the thermocouple fitting that sometimes comes loose.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
P.S. My resolution was that I hadn't turned on the battery!
T@B goes to winter storage this Saturday and will have to get back to this in April. Will need to run the fridge on propane for an Adirondack trip in June!
Symptoms would be the same.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya