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Norcold Auxiliary Fan Install Question

Hi, I received the fan kit from NuCamp, but its missing the blue plastic things that are shown in this photo that I copied from another post.  I only received screws. What are the light blue plastic things called and where do I get them? Perhaps Autozone?  Do I need any other parts to install this? I think I'm also seeing those connectors your crimp in the video to attach the wires to each other, and I've used those before if that's what I'm seeing, but the video I found is not very good for someone with only very basic skills to install this. 
 

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    jgram2jgram2 Member Posts: 1,522
    I wish I could help, but being totally bereft of DIY skills of any sort, we had ours installed at the dealer. I know I saw a video online; did you search on the forum for aux fan? If I find anything, I'll post it, but hopefully someone who has done it will offer assistance.
    John, Judi, Guinness & OD in PDX
    T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner 


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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    edited September 2017
    Auto Zone has various splices. Take this picture and talk to one of the employees.
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    Thanks. I did finally find the connectors but I also read that those kind are not the best to use. Im goingbto Autozone tomorrow to see what they have.  I do have that install video but its practically useless. It goes too fast and it jerks around and doesnt really show much.  
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    4ncar4ncar Member Posts: 1,072
    If you use a pair of pliers, those light blue, "half taps" work pretty well. You just need to make sure you have the wires fully seated, and crimp with pliers firmly, till they click. Soldering is best, but short of that these will suffice.
    TV- '16 Chevy Colorado LT Crew Cab-DuraMax
    2018 320S Outback
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    LuckyjLuckyj Member Posts: 286
    Partial inline splice your wire, and solder the joint.  Electrical tape to wrap them.  That type of connector (I know they are easy to use and will work in the begining like a few months, maybe few years) have a tendancy to ctu some of the wire strand, then since they are basicaly galvenised steel will react with copper and will oxidyse the joint.  This could lead to and increse in resistance and a complete lose of contact.

    Use to work in an electronic plant, were making com system for busses ( destination signs) and other equipement for comuter trains and subway cars and those were not alowed in those contract.

    but again, they are easy to work with and will work for a while.

    your call. (I will not see what you do from my camping spot) ;)

    have fun out there.  :)
    2017 T@G Max Outback "Le Refuge"
    TV 2005 jeep TJ unlimited
    and/or 2005 Nissan X-Trail 4wd
    Alaskan Malamuthe on board!

    Les Escoumins and Petite-Riviere-St-Francois QC
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    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited September 2017
    Very good tips!  Im thinking of using heat shrink butt connectors.  Will this method provide a solid connection? Soldering is not a skill I have so I kind of ruled that out.
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    @robyn769, my kit also lacked the blue plastic things (aka quick splice connectors). Not being particularly fond of them anyway, I opted for a different approach (as discussed in this thread: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1551/norcold-3-way-fridge-exhaust-fan-kit/p4).

    If you don't want to solder, a crimp fitting will also work fine (it's what's used everywhere else in the T@B). You'll get best results with a good ratcheting crimper, but you can probably make pliers work if you are careful and have a good grip!
    2015 T@B S

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    Thanks Scott, I too have come to learn that those quick splicers are not reliable so I'm glad they were not in there now because it caused me to start researching options.  I've made up a list of supplies to get and heat shrink connectors are on the list.  I just have those basic crimpers that are kind of multi-task, so I will put a death grip on those and hope for the best!  I am somewhat concerned (Still looking at youtube videos) on how to splice in the black wire into the two white wires (Switch wire and existing wire).  It looks like I should cut a section out of the insulation on the existing white wire, carefully spread the wires apart in the middle, then thread through the white wire from the switch and the black wire from the fan, does that sound right? I will use shrink wrap to secure that section when I'm done.  
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    @robyn769, it's been a while since I did the install so don't remember exactly how it was configured, but I know I did it all with crimp fittings and attached the power leads directly to the fridge terminal block rather than cutting into the existing leads for the fridge.

    I don't recall stripping any insulation other than at the ends of wires where I was crimping a fitting.

    Sorry I can't be more detailed. I didn't take a photo, and I don't recall which wire was which. I might be able to figure out more if I can find the original original instructions from when I did the install.

    FWIW I have a 2015 with the previous model 3-way fridge.
    2015 T@B S

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    TabberJohnTabberJohn Member Posts: 588
    Posi products (Lock, Tap, or Twist) are a no-solder, crimpless solution to connect various wire gauges.
    Posi-Tap is their alternative to quick splice connectors. Simple, easy-to-use, and they work.
    See this post for more info: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/65369#Comment_65369
    2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
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    Thanks for the follow up.  No worries that you don't recall.  I'm sure I will figure it out (one way or another!) haha.  I hadn't considered connecting at the terminal block.  Hum, I haven't seen what the terminal block looks like. I'm guessing a screw? I guess I could put one of those ends on that slips around a screw.  I think for sure I need to lift up the stove top and get a better look in there! That might shed alot more light on my options. 

    Also, I will check into the Posi products.

    Thanks!!!
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    @robyn769, you are correct. It's a block of screw terminals on top of the fridge under the stove. It's pretty easy to trace the incoming wires to the fridge and figure out which terminal is which. I used small crimp-on ring terminals to make the connections. There were a few minor challenges which I described in the thread I referenced previously.
    2015 T@B S

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    norwoodnorwood Member Posts: 63
    Does anyone have experience with this install on a 2015 320 Max Q? The stove is where the shower is on an S model so the only access to the refrigerator (without removing the counter top or the refrigerator box) appears to be via the small plastic panel on the left of the refrigerator.
    Dennis and Mary Jo
    North Carolina
    2015 T@b Max Q

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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    edited May 2019
    Maybe you could access the needed wires or terminals through the side vent where the fan is installed. I don't have a first-hand experience with the Q so I can't say for sure if there's enough clearance to be able to splice in the wires.
    Otherwise I can't see any other way to get at the top of the fridge without removing it. I don't think you will be able to reach what you need through the panel on the left of the fridge.
    2015 T@B S

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