Flexible Renogy Solar Panel

Cheryl74074

Does anyone have the flexible Renogy solar panel? Do you you need to buy anything else (like a controller or extra cables) to get it to hook up to the T@b?

USWildflowers

Cheryl - I'm not an expert, but have been doing some research toward outfitting my T@b with solar charging capabilities.  This is based on my current level of understanding...

You'll need a charge controller (PWM or MPPT, the on/off type won't "float charge" your battery, as I understand it, to keep it charged after it initially comes to a full charge.)  PWM is less expensive than MPPT, but should be adequate.

You'll need a solar panel-to-controller set of wires. Usually the controller end is bare wire. The panel end for Renogy are MC4 connectors - I THINK!

You'll need a set of controller-to-battery wires. Usually the controller end is bare wire. If you want to use the quick-connect built into the T@b then the battery-side needs to be SAE connectors, which are harder to find than MC4. You'll need to make sure the trailer-side of that connector is hooked to the battery properly; mine are simply routed into the battery box. Alternatively you can use alligator clip style connectors - easier to find, but you'd need to open the battery case each time.

gcw

jkjenn

Cheryl74074 said:

Does anyone have the flexible Renogy solar panel? Do you you need to buy anything else (like a controller or extra cables) to get it to hook up to the T@b?

Cheryl, FYI, you can get the flexible panel with a controller from Renogy. I am definitely leaning towards  a couple of these panels. We will have to keep each other posted. I had 2 of the Renogy 100 watt panels - they were excellent, but way too big and heavy. This seems to be the beast value in terms of cost and quality.

SAE connectors are harder to find, but you can make them yourself or connect directly to the battery, instead of using the quick disconnect port on the propane box.

Verna

You can find the SAE connectors in the boating section of Walmart, Gander Mountain, etc. They are used for trolling motor quick disconnects.

Michigan_Mike

I just mounted a 50 watt Renogy panel on the side of my garage for a battery charging station.  The solar controllers are easy to set up and wire and keep in mind too that you need to fuse the system too.  I have a small 10 amp fuse set-up and am using the panel to keep my trailer battery charged up.  

The SAE connectors can also be purchased at Auto Zone and other local auto parts stores.

jcfaber1

I too am looking at the flexible panels to replace my large panel as it is a pain to move around.  I would really like to hear how they work out.  I will keep the panel portable and use my 50 ft. 8 gauge marine cable.  Below is a link to the connector I installed on the t@b.  It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-MKR-18-12V-Plug-Receptacle/dp/B001PTHKRQ

It is made by Marinko but is cheaper than buying inder that name.  My panel is a high voltage which required I get a MPPT controller. 

John

USWildflowers

What controller are you using, Mike?

TabyDD

Is anyone considering the 'suitcase' 30# Renogy?  I'm thinking 100w or? My Tab has the "Zamp' portal on the tongue box as well.  With the flexible panels, would you permanently mount them?  Or use them when needed?  Do they have a carrying case?  So many questions.

jcfaber1

I am thinking of getting the flexible panels and not mount them on the t@b.  I would make a collapsible frame that would hold them.  I want to be able to place the panel's in the sun and the trailer in the shade.  I presently have this setup but my panel is big - 65 x 39 inches and 40 lbs. A 260 watt PV and is a pain to move while travelling. 

Michigan_Mike

USWildflowers said:

What controller are you using, Mike?

Hi Gerry,

I am using the Renogy 30 amp PWM solar controller.  There are obviously better solar controllers available, but this one works fine and does the job.  

USWildflowers

Thanks, Mike. That's the one I was leaning toward. Good to hear a "good enough" kind of endorsement...

TabyDD

jcfaber1 said:

I am thinking of getting the flexible panels and not mount them on the t@b.  I would make a collapsible frame that would hold them.  I want to be able to place the panel's in the sun and the trailer in the shade.  I presently have this setup but my panel is big - 65 x 39 inches and 40 lbs. A 260 watt PV and is a pain to move while travelling. 

Have you considered the Renogy suitcase style and how many watts to you feel is adequate for the T@b?  Do you assume the Zamp plug in on the tongue box is hooked up to the battery?  Or is that something you must check out?  With the flexible panels, would you adhere them to the outside structure of the Tab or create an independent structure for them?
 Thank you.

Michigan_Mike

The Zamp solar plugs are wired in to the battery and ready for use when needed.  And so far as the flexible panels, many individuals use an adhesive to attach them to the skin of the trailer.  I've looked at them and they are tempting and appealing and the ones I looked at were the monocrystalline panels.  I wouldn't personally mount anything other than the monocrystalline panels, but over time have seen the technology in solar panels become even better.  

I spoke to Joe Kickos, president of Little Guy at noon today and discussed solar options with him.  We discussed the flexible panels and the possibility of Little Guy incorporating them into future trailer builds.  Since the flexible panels have improved it seems it would be a viable alternative for many new/existing owners to convert to solar power or at least to have an option of purchasing and owning a "green" unit to allow for more versatility.  

In my opinion, if I owned a T@B (probably will somewhere down the road) I would utilize a 100 watt monocrystalline panel to power up the battery.  An 80 watt panel should suffice, and you also want to consider the weight of the panel (in a suitcase style version) when buying a panel.  If you are looking at flexible panels you could easily mount either a 100 watt panel or two 100 watt panels on a T@B and have more than enough solar generating capacity.  All of the above depends on what you plan to power up in your trailer and the battery used.  There are formulas available via Google and it's important to do a little research in advance, as well as considering your actual needs while traveling (will you be camping in an RV park, boondocking, etc.) or you could spend a lot of money for something you really don't need, nor will use.  .  

jcfaber1

TabyDD, I have an existing setup.  You can get the gist of my setup if you go look at my post on the thread "show us your stuff".  First, a little background on why I did what I did with our solar setup.  When we were looking at purchasing our 2007 t@b I was concerned that it did not have the 3-way fridge.  While we were considering the purchase, I learned that I need to use a CPAP while sleeping.  Using a CPAP really changes the need for storage and I decided to not worry about the fridge and focus on overkill with battery storage and solar charging.  The system I came up with allows us to put the tab in the shade and the panel in the sun. I have a 50ft 8 gauge cable between the t@b and the solar panel.  Our charge controller is located in the wheel well near the converter and the batteries.  Generally you want to put the charge controller as close to the batteries as possible.  On the panel end of the cable, I am using standard MC4 connectors.  On the tab end I am using a trolling motor connecter.  I have installed a meter in the tab that you can program with your amp hour capacity and it will tell you how much you are charging or discharging, your voltage and what % of capacity you have remaining.    I purchased the 260 watt panel from a company which manufactured it in my home town and was able to get it at a great price but the physical size is a hassle.  When we have sun, I am able to get the batteries back to 100% of charge each day.   I looked at the kits but felt they were expensive as I would need at least 2 or more 100 watt systems.  Those kits have the charge controller on the inside of the suitcase.  This isn't necessarily bad but the longer the cable the more voltage drop you have.  I suspect for many folks these will work great.  With the panel I have, I have less than a 2% voltage drop over the cable.  The flexible panels look appealing because of the size and weight.  I would make a collapsible frame for 2 panels wired in series and would use the balance of my existing setup.  In time I would have two of these 200watt panel setups so that we can go several days in lousy rainy weather.  I have attached a photo of my 2 AGM 225AH batteries in a vented case along with the CC.  I suppose that was way more than you wanted to know!

John

jcfaber1

jkjenn

Michigan_Mike said:

The Zamp solar plugs are wired in to the battery and ready for use when needed.  And so far as the flexible panels, many individuals use an adhesive to attach them to the skin of the trailer.  I've looked at them and they are tempting and appealing and the ones I looked at were the monocrystalline panels.  I wouldn't personally mount anything other than the monocrystalline panels, but over time have seen the technology in solar panels become even better.  

I spoke to Joe Kickos, president of Little Guy at noon today and discussed solar options with him.  We discussed the flexible panels and the possibility of Little Guy incorporating them into future trailer builds.  Since the flexible panels have improved it seems it would be a viable alternative for many new/existing owners to convert to solar power or at least to have an option of purchasing and owning a "green" unit to allow for more versatility.  

In my opinion, if I owned a T@B (probably will somewhere down the road) I would utilize a 100 watt monocrystalline panel to power up the battery.  An 80 watt panel should suffice, and you also want to consider the weight of the panel (in a suitcase style version) when buying a panel.  If you are looking at flexible panels you could easily mount either a 100 watt panel or two 100 watt panels on a T@B and have more than enough solar generating capacity.  All of the above depends on what you plan to power up in your trailer and the battery used.  There are formulas available via Google and it's important to do a little research in advance, as well as considering your actual needs while traveling (will you be camping in an RV park, boondocking, etc.) or you could spend a lot of money for something you really don't need, nor will use.  .  

I would love the practicality of mounting them, but I have four hang-ups:

1. I don't like the "homemade look"
2. I am concerned that I will permanently mount the panel only to gave the tech become outdated too quickly.
3. Having to place T@b at the right angle for sun versus view
4. Potentially damaging the T@b.

The flip side is that there would be no storage issues or set-up time and the T@b could be charged from the sun while you drive.Truthfully, the plug and play of the Damp make it appealing, but cost is hard for me to justify when I know that the Renogy panels are also very well made.

jkjenn

Michigan_Mike said:

I just mounted a 50 watt Renogy panel on the side of my garage for a battery charging station.  The solar controllers are easy to set up and wire and keep in mind too that you need to fuse the system too.  I have a small 10 amp fuse set-up and am using the panel to keep my trailer battery charged up.  

The SAE connectors can also be purchased at Auto Zone and other local auto parts stores.

I have had some trouble with SAE connectors working. I m starting to wonder if the Quick Disconnect on my T@b is wired backwards.

I am glad you mentioned the fuse as I have not added one, yet.

Michigan_Mike

Jenn,

You should be able to watch your digital LED meter plugged into the trailer and this should indicate whether or not the panel is charging the battery.  I know that some folks have stated the Zamp solar connector was wired in incorrectly, but if so it would only be a matter of swapping the electrical leads over is all.  

And regarding a homemade look, etc. I carry my 80 watt Zamp panel with me and normally have flexibility in set-up location as I wired in solar ports on both sides of my tool box on the trailer.  I also use mine for a CPAP unit and run all devices in my trailer off the larger, golf cart size battery I purchased for my trailer.  have had no issues and the 80 watt Zamp panel meets all my needs and allows me to run all trailer devices and my 50 quart ARB freezer/frig without any problems.  

jkjenn

Thanks, Mike I will check the port as you suggested...whenever we see the sun, again!

Good to know about usage. I thought I would start with a 100 watt panel. The (2) 100 watt full size panels took too much time to mess with. The beauty f a suitcase panel is ease of set up.

TabyDD

A thousand thanks, John, Jenn and Mike-this is a steep learning curve for me.  I can say my impetus for purchasing would be to have more freedom (time) in an off road situation.  Perhaps 4 days max, with conservative use of electricity.  There are so many variables, sun, weight, wiring, relationship to the existing battery (like how long does it take to benefit from your solar deposits?) Mike, would you mind making a UTube video?  Hah

Michigan_Mike

I might do that sometime TabbyDD!   I've actually played around with the iPhone videos for solar just to show that they do charge.  The portable units are nice and you can still park the trailer in shade and position the panel into the sun.  I'm sold on it and am convinced it's a viable alternative, although not for everyone, especially folks using shore power the majority of the time.  You really do need to weigh your alternatives and whether or not you plan to dry camp before taking the plunge.   

Nomad

I have the Zamp 120w system and I've been boondocking 90% of the time (almost two months full-time now) and they've provided more than enough power to run my whole system and recharge all my electronics (except my computer). And that's running the Alde full time also as I've been in colder weather (at least at night) most of the time. The only thing I've learned not to use too much of at night is the ceiling fan, that draws way too much power.
That said - If you run into a series of heavily overcast (or rainy days) you won't get a charge. Light overcast is fine as long as you monitor your usage. I've even gotten a charge from the Zamp on a bright, full moonlite night.
Since I'm boondocking so much, I do have a small generator for those bad days.

mickietucs

PXLated - that's the set up I'm thinking I'll get (120w zamp). So what do u use to charge your laptop while boondocking? My apologies if I asked that already.

Nomad

mickietucs - The weird thing is I can charge the MacBook via inverter plugged into my TV but the inverter errors out when trying to do the same in the T@B. Could be something with the inverter or that the T@B just doesn't put out enough juice. Might buy a different inverter and see what happens.
But to answer your question, I either charge it in the TV as I'm moving or haul out my generator and run that for an hour while it charges. 

jkjenn

PXLated, might be worth a looking at a Goal Zero Sharps for you Mac.  I have a GZ Sharps, as well as a GZ Escape 150 for my Surface Pro 3 and other electronics. Sure would beat a generator!

Nomad

jkjenn - How long can you run off from them? I'm hesitant to add any more things that need charging :-)
When fully charged I can edit for about roughly 6 hours after using the generator. For some things I use my iPad and that lasts all day. 

mickietucs - Forgot to mention, all my other devices charge just fine, it's just the MacBook.

Mercator

PXLated said:

... Might buy a different inverter and see what happens.
But to answer your question, I either charge it in the TV as I'm moving or haul out my generator and run that for an hour while it charges. 

I have used a third-party car adapter for my MacBook Air for a number of years.  At the time I purchased mine there was only one that I could find - MikeGyver - but now there are a number available on eBay and Amazon.  I sent in my spare power block and they used the magsafe adapter from it which allows me to use either 12 v or AC

jkjenn

I can get one charge out of my Sharps 50―they also have a Sharps 100 now. I can get a couple out of my Escape 150 plus either charge other things or run my Light a Life light. They charge within a day with my 15 watt panel, generally. The Escape 150 is no longer made, but I was able to get a refurbished one on eBay from GZ.

jkjenn

If I get the Renogy, what suction cups would you recommend?