OK- We struggle hitching and unhitching. We have become used to our "routine" and can get it done, but it is not pretty. This weekend I watched
@Homebodyatheart hitch up. She basically did it with 2 fingers! We have used LOTS of silicone spray, and hitched and unhitched MANY times, but there is no way we can do it as easily as she does. Rumor has it that there may have been a "bad batch" of hitches out there, and that maybe ours is among those. Does anyone know anything about this possibility?
2016 T@B CS-S silver with white trim and WSU themed
Pulled by a silver 2017 Chevy Silverado
Leaves on T@bventures from Spokane, WA
Comments
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
Pulled by a silver 2017 Chevy Silverado
Leaves on T@bventures from Spokane, WA
how does it work w/o a ball. Does the lever work easly when empty?
TV 2005 jeep TJ unlimited
and/or 2005 Nissan X-Trail 4wd
Alaskan Malamuthe on board!
Les Escoumins and Petite-Riviere-St-Francois QC
Ottawa, Ontario
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/5229/coupling-issues-hitching-issues-couple-stuck-on-the-ball-stuck-coupler#latest
Pulled by a silver 2017 Chevy Silverado
Leaves on T@bventures from Spokane, WA
As noted above the ball has to be seated at the front if you are going to get the trailer off from it. Since my drive has a slight angle to it I oft times have to back up, hit the brakes some and jolt the trailer in order to get into a position where it will come up off the ball. And once that's done you pull up on the handle and pull toward the tow vehicle and this action releases the hitch, allowing you to crank the jack handle and get the trailer high enough to pull the vehicle away from it. The same goes for loading the trailer and allowing it to align and lower down onto the ball.
I will just say that the above is an acquired task and talent and it does take a few times before the knack is acquired, the locking handle clicks into place, you know it is secure and a lock can be installed on the handle, securing the hitch in place and allowing for safe travel. I've had my moments, but the jolt or thud you get when things are in position will make this chore easier and with time, travel, some wear on the front components, etc. it does become routine and simple.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
Now add weight distribution/sway bars to the mix!! hehe... for the toy hauler. I *have* to have the ball connected as I lift the rear of the truck and tongue to take off the bars. Then I have to drop the jack to the point where it's time to take the sucker off the ball. Then do the truck rock (after the mallet bang). It's never been easy. I look forward to the day where it's as easy as that old popup I used to have!!
I have been camping full-time for the last almost 60 days and the more I camp, the HARDER it gets to hitch and unhitch. In other words, its not loosening up. It is tightening up.
Mine is a 2015 and there were some hitches during that year apparently that were cast incorrectly. No matter how much white grease and what technique you use, if you have one of these couplers, it is going to cause you problems.
Like I said, mine started off stiff but doable. Slowly it became harder and harder to engage the hitch ball inside the coupler.
Eventually about 2 weeks ago, I unhitched with some problems only to find I couldn't stick the coupler lock up in the coupler. A nice gentleman came by and looked inside. When you move the couple up, forward and then back, the INSIDE mechanism should also move back. Mine was sticking. So he sprayed some white grease up there and I was able to hitch up the next and unhitch, but once again, I couldn't lock the coupler. This time, no amount of white grease would unstick the metal mechanism inside. It took the rubber mallet banging the piece back.
The next time, I had to bang it backward to hitch it up. Now, I have to bang it backward to hitch it up and forward to lock it into place. And again on the other end to get the trailer off the hitch ball.
In other words....it is getting WORSE. I called NuCamp and they confirmed that I probably had one of the defective couplers and I am bringing it in to get replaced. Fingers crossed that I can actually GET the dang thing there as it has now become a circus of me banging the coupler with all my might just to move the inside metal piece back and forward to engage or disengage the coupler.
--Meg
Mostly A Solo RV Chick
T@B Outback
Jeep Grand Cherokee
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
--Meg
Mostly A Solo RV Chick
T@B Outback
Jeep Grand Cherokee
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Replaced the hitch too!
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
What I've found works is to hitch up normally, and if you find the T@B is not dropping down on the hitch, get on the side of the hitch and jerk it side-to-side as hard as you can. It drops on every time for me.
Hope this helps someone.
-Greg
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
I also regularly apply a spray-on white lithium grease, both up inside the coupler and on the ball itself.
It took careful measurment and drilling to match the AL-KO coupler holes, plus a washer on each side of the pipe to make the standard 2" square coupling fit, but no more issues sticking to the ball.
Anybody wanna buy an AL-KO coupler and keylock cylinder?
2009 T@B T1
Bismarck, ND
And welcome to the forum. Out of curiosity what year Dutchman t@b do you have? You might also consider putting that info in your signature line, so it is available to forum members on your future posts. Then we have a basis to make comments, provide information, and make suggestions.
Btw, bravo on such an ambitious modification. -Denise
Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.