@ColleenD2 You can print this conversation out and take it with you! Highlight the questions and suggestions. Good luck, be thankful you’re not trying to get away from a hurricane 🙂
John, Judi, Guinness & OD in PDX T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
This does not require any special wiring. Once your 7 pin is installed just mount the brake controller to the tongue of the trailer then connect your 7 pin cable from the brake controller to the tow vehicle, next insert your 7 pin cable on the trailer to the brake controller box. Its very simple.
I APPRECIATE YOU ALL SO MUCH! I think this sounds like something that can and will be able to be done without any more panic. I’ve printed out the convo and will print any additional pages too. Again, thank you!
2019 Custom T@B 320 U Boondock Lite-ish Custom Colors & Custom Interior We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
@ColleenD2 this is "normal car stuff." Yes, it is a bit confusing at first, but there is nothing hard or strange or unusual to open up the dash or floor of a car and putting in wiring for brake controllers or stereo speakers or what have you. Professionals do this every day. And put it all back together so you would never notice.
(Someone who has had installed stereos/speakers/subwoofers/brake controllers in cars and you would never notice it......
Pay the $300. Ford has a weird extra hot wire and you will fry something if you wire it wrong. I watched my sister and the deal bail out of her Ford Explorer Sport as the brake controller started to catch fire (all ended well).
No, you don't have a built-in brake controller. If you did, you'd have a 7-pin PLUS a 4-pin in the back. Ford and many other companies use the dual pin plug system where you pull down on the larger spring door and that's the 7-blade and if you lift up the smaller spring door, that's the 4-pin connection. I'm sure there are exceptions for the smaller vehicles that aren't expected to pull something that needs electric brakes.
BTW, it will NOT void your warranty by putting in a 7-pin connector. The brake controller is an additional amount of $$.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
@ColleenD2 One word of caution regarding using the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller with your Ford Edge - if you want to go this route you might want to confirm with Tekonsha that the RF is compatible with the tail/brake light output coming from the Edge's factory 4-pin connector.
On our 2018 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0L AWD w/factory tow package, the brake light signals coming from the factory 4-pin appear to be PWM (pulse width modulated). This pulsed signal ends up confusing the logic of the RF's trailer-mounted control module, resulting in jerky braking at low speeds and especially when a turn signal is on.
Please note that my experience is only with the Escape, not the Edge, but there's a chance that Ford uses the same or similar factory tow package components in both models.
And to be clear for other readers, I'm only talking about compatibility between the Prodigy RF and the 4-pin output from the factory-installed tow package. Aftermarket t-connector harnesses probably work fine.
I haven't given up on my RF yet, and am working with Tekonsha support on a possible workaround. But in retrospect, I probably would have gone with the Prodigy P3 instead, even though it involves more wiring and controller mounting hassles.
If there is anyone else out there with the combination of Prodigy RF, Ford Escape and factory tow package, I'd love to compare notes.
@ColleenD2 One word of caution regarding using the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller in retrospect, I probably would have gone with the Prodigy P3 instead, even though it involves more wiring and controller mounting hassles.
For the premium that the RF units costs you could easily pay for the less complicated Prodigy and have your wiring done by a professional. Unless you are using multiple tow vehicles there is no significant performance benefit offered by the RF unit.
@ColleenD2 One word of caution regarding using the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller in retrospect, I probably would have gone with the Prodigy P3 instead, even though it involves more wiring and controller mounting hassles.
For the premium that the RF units costs you could easily pay for the less complicated Prodigy and have your wiring done by a professional. Unless you are using multiple tow vehicles there is no significant performance benefit offered by the RF unit.
True but the RF is simple and you can easily move it to the next vehicle. Plus I like not knocking my knee into it every time I get into my vehicle.
@ColleenD2 One word of caution regarding using the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller with your Ford Edge - if you want to go this route you might want to confirm with Tekonsha that the RF is compatible with the tail/brake light output coming from the Edge's factory 4-pin connector.
On our 2018 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0L AWD w/factory tow package, the brake light signals coming from the factory 4-pin appear to be PWM (pulse width modulated). This pulsed signal ends up confusing the logic of the RF's trailer-mounted control module, resulting in jerky braking at low speeds and especially when a turn signal is on.
Please note that my experience is only with the Escape, not the Edge, but there's a chance that Ford uses the same or similar factory tow package components in both models.
And to be clear for other readers, I'm only talking about compatibility between the Prodigy RF and the 4-pin output from the factory-installed tow package. Aftermarket t-connector harnesses probably work fine.
I haven't given up on my RF yet, and am working with Tekonsha support on a possible workaround. But in retrospect, I probably would have gone with the Prodigy P3 instead, even though it involves more wiring and controller mounting hassles.
If there is anyone else out there with the combination of Prodigy RF, Ford Escape and factory tow package, I'd love to compare notes.
Ramon
This is easily fixed by using a small convertor box from Curt to change the signal. Most modern cars are all PWM now since most tail lights are LED. I don't think this would be an issue on her Edge though since she mentioned she already has the factory tow package which already includes the 4 pin cable. So the factory tow cable wiring should already have the proper tail light/turn signal needed.
Myself and my dad installed a 4-pin to 7-pin in my first Sport Trac with a charge line. We bought the kit shown above, wire to run the charge line to the battery, an inline fuse, and an isolator so that the battery only charged when the engine was running, various zip ties and crimpers. We had to drill into the frame to mount the 7-pin. We ran the charge line up to the battery, installed the fuse, and ran a wire from the isolator to a "switched" empty fuse slot in the bank of fuses. We didn't need the brake controller as I have surge brakes.
dhauf said: I don't think this would be an issue on her Edge though since she mentioned she already has the factory tow package which already includes the 4 pin cable. So the factory tow cable wiring should already have the proper tail light/turn signal needed.
As I mentioned, I also have the factory wiring on my Escape, and it is the PWM output from the factory 4-pin that causes problems for the RF.
This is easily fixed by using a small convertor box from Curt to change the signal.
This is the workaround that I'm pursuing now. It's not entirely easy, though, since these boxes require their own 12v power connection in addition to the tail light inputs. And in my situation the Escape's 4-pin also has trailer-lamp-out detection, so I need a box that correctly handles that as well (not all of them do).
dhauf said: I don't think this would be an issue on her Edge though since she mentioned she already has the factory tow package which already includes the 4 pin cable. So the factory tow cable wiring should already have the proper tail light/turn signal needed.
As I mentioned, I also have the factory wiring on my Escape, and it is the PWM output from the factory 4-pin that causes problems for the RF.
This is easily fixed by using a small convertor box from Curt to change the signal.
This is the workaround that I'm pursuing now. It's not entirely easy, though, since these boxes require their own 12v power connection in addition to the tail light inputs. And in my situation the Escape's 4-pin also has trailer-lamp-out detection, so I need a box that correctly handles that as well (not all of them do).
Once you convert the PWM signal as you mentioned the Prodigy RF should work correctly, you can most likely tap into the rear fuse box for power near the trunk area. Not sure what year your Escape is but I put in 2017 and there are several boxes that should convert this signal and work with the lamp out detection https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2017_Ford_Escape.htm. I have a Volvo that has very complex computer monitors for lamp out etc and have used these converters with no issues so far. Not sure about the Ford system but since Ford owned Volvo for a time it probably will be very similar. Anyway hope you get it all sorted out. I wasn’t meaning for my post to be confrontational at all hopefully wasn’t taken that way, just was stating I’ve been very happy with my Prodigy RF and like not having the brake controller on the knee bolster of the car.
@dhauf No worries, I'm glad to hear the RF is working well for you and hope I can achieve the same. Once I get things sorted maybe I'll start a new thread specifically for sharing experiences with the RF.
In the meantime I'll try to not further derail helping @ColleenD2 get up and running
Comments
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
If thats the case you will just need one of these crimped onto the power wire and plug the 4 pin in and mount this on your hitch somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Trailer-Adapter-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B07GS6Z4P7?keywords=4+to+7pin+harness&qid=1536686819&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9
You won't have a brake controller from the factory I looked it up so you will need one. I would highly recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy RF https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90250-Prodigy-Electronic-Control/dp/B001P0ZA86?keywords=tekonsha+prodigy&qid=1536686901&sr=8-1-spons&ref=sr_1_1_sspa&psc=1
This does not require any special wiring. Once your 7 pin is installed just mount the brake controller to the tongue of the trailer then connect your 7 pin cable from the brake controller to the tow vehicle, next insert your 7 pin cable on the trailer to the brake controller box. Its very simple.
Custom Colors & Custom Interior
We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
Custom Colors & Custom Interior
We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
Custom Colors & Custom Interior
We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
Custom Colors & Custom Interior
We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
No, you don't have a built-in brake controller. If you did, you'd have a 7-pin PLUS a 4-pin in the back. Ford and many other companies use the dual pin plug system where you pull down on the larger spring door and that's the 7-blade and if you lift up the smaller spring door, that's the 4-pin connection. I'm sure there are exceptions for the smaller vehicles that aren't expected to pull something that needs electric brakes.
BTW, it will NOT void your warranty by putting in a 7-pin connector. The brake controller is an additional amount of $$.
On our 2018 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0L AWD w/factory tow package, the brake light signals coming from the factory 4-pin appear to be PWM (pulse width modulated). This pulsed signal ends up confusing the logic of the RF's trailer-mounted control module, resulting in jerky braking at low speeds and especially when a turn signal is on.
Please note that my experience is only with the Escape, not the Edge, but there's a chance that Ford uses the same or similar factory tow package components in both models.
And to be clear for other readers, I'm only talking about compatibility between the Prodigy RF and the 4-pin output from the factory-installed tow package. Aftermarket t-connector harnesses probably work fine.
I haven't given up on my RF yet, and am working with Tekonsha support on a possible workaround. But in retrospect, I probably would have gone with the Prodigy P3 instead, even though it involves more wiring and controller mounting hassles.
If there is anyone else out there with the combination of Prodigy RF, Ford Escape and factory tow package, I'd love to compare notes.
Ramon
MOUSE-KE-T@B
2007 Dutchmen T@B Clamshell #2741
2022 nuCamp T@B 320 CS-S
2021 F-150 502A Lariat SuperCrew, 3.5 EcoBoost 4x2
Harvest, AL
Custom Colors & Custom Interior
We've slept in 34 states, 2 countries & counting
In the meantime I'll try to not further derail helping @ColleenD2 get up and running