I just picked up a used 2015 T@B Max S model to replace a one year old T@G. I moved up to the T@B S for the obvious reasons; size, water heat, cabin heat, toilet and shower. I have been reading the forum threads regarding the Alde and I am not comforted by the seemingly finicky nature of the system. Blown fuses, overheating to the point of a pressure failure, pump vibration, etc. etc. etc. So tell me, is the system reliable or am I going to be continuously chasing problems resulting in ongoing frustration? I'm retired, I want to camp not fix. Does anyone find the system to be easy to deal with?
Thanks,
Spending February in the Florida Panhandle so I might need heat.
John & Michelle & JD (Just Dog) 2019 T@B 400 Boondock LTE towed by a 2017 Toyota Highlander v6, (flat land only) or a 2017 Tundra v8 (when going west)
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By the way, the propane tank only runs out between 10 pm and 4 am, so be sure to have a backup tank.....yes, I’m serious. It’s Murphy’s law of the propane tank.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
Just saying I never had an issue with the Alde. I did like the warnings of dropping the hidden fuses. Leave it to me to lose the fuse holders! I'd probably lose both. LOL. They'd probably appear where my socks go.
Being a year and a half into this, the up side is that the T@B as a whole and the Alde are remarkably well conceived, designed and made products. The towing characteristics, breaks, suspension and bearing systems seem to be of the highest quality and well integrated. The 3 way refrigerator and Alde have performed well.
But there is a major down side.
This is a very complex system, and the learning curve is substantial.
Documentation is not well unified and difficult to sort out. We got a huge stack of manuals, but no real plan on how to work with it, and although the material was there it is buried in among an enormous amount of verbiage that is irrelevant.
The essential problem is that this is a small and diverse market. In autos or trucks 95 percent of the market is in a hand full of brands with relatively strong dealer networks, documentation and parts supplies. The average trailer owner may be hundreds of miles rather than tens of miles from a dealer. And each dealer serves many brands. And, for instance, a 2011 Chevy Silverado is a known quantity with documented circuit diagrams and functions. Travel trailers are essentially built one at a time, and are undocumented except for what is put together by the internet community.
The plus side for the T@B is that factory support for the trailer and its components has in my experience been very good.
The major down side has been our dealer experience:
T@B Dealer Experience, General RV in Huntley, Illinois
We have been quite satisfied with our T@B trailer and although there is a steep learning curve there have been no issues of construction, quality or reliability. The dealer experience, however, is another story.
Our dealer was General RV, in Huntley, Illinois. This is a big chain with a lot of stock and an elaborate sales program, but very poor service. To understand why, you need look no further then their web site, where you will see the notice: "We need RV technicians, and no experience is needed!"
When we made the purchase we were absolute beginners. We were told that we needed a break controller, so we got suckered in and paid $120 for a unit available on Amazon for about $60 and something like $120 for installation.
Tow vehicle is a 2011 Chevy Silverado half ton pickup.
"Installation," took all of five minutes, consisted of ramming two screws into the dash board and mounting the unit so that you could not see the LED indicators, or easily reach the controls. They hooked up the two under the hood wires for the controller and the trailer 12 volt power feed but just hand tightened the nuts, you could literally move them with your fingers. Naturally the brakes were intermittent, and it took some serious time and frustration to trace down the problem, including an hour or so with the manufacturer technical guy. (Tekonsha – Primus Factory support was excellent.)
They also hooked up the under the hood 12 volt trailer power lead, but did not plug in a fuse or inform us that we needed to do it. The first couple of test runs went fine, in retrospect we were on shore power prior to going, and plugged in to 120 volt on arrival; we thought we had 12 volt in transit but did not.
On our first extended trip the battery was dead about six hours out. I was able to figure out what the problem was relatively quickly, but finding the little square, green 40 amp fuse on the road is difficult; the local Chevy dealer parts department could not find it in stock, but then the counter guy dug out two of them in a box taken from old equipment and gave them to us free.
Then the interesting part, the thing had power on, but was still not charging very much. Digging through the inch and a half thick Silverado manual, we found deep in the small print the fact that the trailer power would not charge a battery unless the truck transmission was in tow mode. Who would have thought that the power feed charging enable was by means of the automatic transmission control?
I don't know about other dealers, but my conclusion is that to do this you pretty much have to commit to being your own mechanic, and really research anything you have to go to a shop for. Part of the problem is that there are so many trailer brands out there, and that apparently model year does not mean all that much, changes seem to be put in at any time as production goes on. But General RV is really dedicated to poor or outright abusive service practices, and it comes from the top down to those service technicians hired with no experience, presumably because they are willing to work for less.
It stands to reason that occasional problems will be overrepresented on the forum, as there's little point in having a discussion about everything working just fine. :-)
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
pthomas745 makes an excellent point, but there are practical difficulties.
As an example, there are lots of bike shops across the country, so it is relatively simple to find local shops and then figure out which guys are reliable and fair. I got so confident in our local bike shop that I bought my last bike without even asking the price, had that much confidence. He kept spare not available parts such as the sprocket gears and bearing retainers from discarded assemblies and would give you what you needed for free in a pinch.
The problem is with much less density how do these self taught craftsmen and people needing help link up?
How many people in the Chicago area, for instance, need help with an Alde this week?
Is there some way that we could use the internet, this forum for instance, to set up some sort of reference mechanism?
There is also a smartphone app Alde Service that has a copy of the Alde 3010 Manual, which is my go-to Manual for troubleshooting. I guess I surprised the factory last January when I told them about what troubleshooting I had done (per the manual and owner’s comments on this forum) I had already done. They shipped me the needed circuit board that I did replace.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Other than replacing a fuse, and adding a switch in the DC power lead to absolutely turn the Alde system off when it is not required, I have had no specific problems other than trying to understand why and when the pump runs.
My experience is that the circulation pump starts when there is a request for heat. I’m winterized so I can’t say that this pump runs with the water heater also. I tested mine earlier this afternoon without the seat cover on and I could hear the pump kick in. It’s nice when more of the mystery is discovered through questions on this forum.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
https://www.google.com/search?ei=3KRaWpPgHKqwjwSz0IHwBg&q=changing+alde+glycol+site:tab-rv.vanillaforums.com&oq=changing+alde+glycol+site:tab-rv.vanillaforums.com&gs_l=psy-ab.3...3398.10552.0.11344.36.25.0.0.0.0.217.2943.0j20j1.21.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..20.0.0....0.raG7uqj0_HU
New 400 owner hear browsing the list to try to fix all my problems. Good to hear that most folks are happy with the Alde, we've found it a real bummer moving to this from the forced air heater of our Hallmark Pop-up (you jump in and are warm in 4 min). It takes many hours to heat up, hot water runs out really quickly (and we have to really fiddle to get it hot enough), and now I seem to have a problem that others don't have... we get 'gas failure' and the alde stops even though there is propane. I kinda think this is due to low voltage after a few different tests, but it happened after only 2 nights of pretty conservative use (and with a solar panel). The Alde service folks are nice, but they don't seem to have a way of diagnosing whether the unit is actually working right and now I'm going to have to find time to take it hours to a dealer to hope that things can get fixed. Oh, we have a glycol leak too around the fill tank.
Anyone else have a 'gas failure' or glycol leak issue?
Thanks!
Re the hot water adjustment, have you adjusted the black mixer control knob following the instructions that came with your TaB? Once you have maximized your hot water, then you will find you have a longer shower as you mix it with cold water.
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/6183/alde-hw-works-but-not-heating
I did take the time to print out certain discussions from this forum before I took possession of my T@B and I can never thank the other owner’s for being so informative and so free with their helpful hints. If you are willing to invest some learning time, just search the Heating and A/C category and I will guarantee that you will learn how to use the Alde. Print some of the discussions, put them in a binder or folder and keep them with your T@B. It will only help you to have a quick reference from those who have experienced your situation.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
I wanted to see just how long a shower could be, limited by:
A- our 5 gallon freshwater tank (2014 model), and
B- the Alde's 2½ gallon hot 'reservoir'
It lasted about 5 minutes, (with no 'pause' to soap up, etc.) just steady hot water. Perfectly fine for us, for a 'camping' shower. Plenty of time to get the soap off!
@laetulos, I'd look into adjustment of your hot water mixer, if you're having trouble with lack of hot water.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
The main problem problem I'm trying to get my head around is how long it takes to heat up. We regularly camp with temps around 20 and arrive after dark, this means we spend the evening cold. I guess my question here is whether it is normal in other people's experience for it to take 2-3 hours to heat up from, for example, 60 to 63 degrees (with temps below 20 and no wind)? The Alde folks said that it seemed slow, about 2x as long as in their tests, but didn't offer anyway to diagnose whether my system is working right or any other solution, Nucamp folks refer me to Alde. I'm going to be taking it to a dealer next week to hopefully get this and other issues fixed, I'm just afraid that they are going to say that this is in the normal range and I'll be stuck, so more feedback from other people would be useful.
Thanks!