I want to install a air conditioner in my 2008 tab does anyone know how the side walls are constructed I will have to cut the grill in close to the floor and I do not want to hit any supports
Was waiting for another 2008 owner to chim in, so here goes. Call the factory. They Will be your best source of information. Based on posts to this forum, I'm guessing most owners have more recent tabs. A 2008 maybe a little rare, hence the lack of response to your question. Good luck with this project.
2016 Outback 320 with a 2010 Ford Expedition, 2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
If you search files and photos on the Yahoo forum, I am sure there are some photos and frame drawings there. Also some DIY AC installations. Generally a great resource for Dutchman built T@Bs.(2004-2010). EDIT 4/10/2021 - Yahoo group moved to io - link updated
I just installed an A/C in my 2005 T@B. Dont worry about supports. You will be ok. Just make sure to build a frame on the inside to screw your vent into to give extra support/rigidness. The problem will be airflow to cool cools. I thought a small inlet vent on the floor & dual exhaust fans would work, but I am now adding another set of exhaust fans & an air intake fan to see if that helps. How far did you get on your install?
Here is a picture record of a 8000 btu window AC unit install in a 2009 T@B CS. The Yahoo link in my previous post no longer is supported. EDIT 4/10/2021 - New T@Bio forum link: https://groups.io/g/tabtrailers/album?id=136842 Pictures have captions in provided link.
The biggest problem with installing a window style AC unit in a recessed location is. Getting enough cool outside air to the side intakes, and not draw in the very hot exhaust air.
The biggest problem with installing a window style AC unit in a recessed location is. Getting enough cool outside air to the side intakes, and not draw in the very hot exhaust air.
That is why I installed the shroud extending the rear of the AC housing to the exterior grate keeping the hot exhaust separated from the cool air in around the outside.
If you search files and photos on the Yahoo forum, I am sure there are some photos and frame drawings there. Also some DIY AC installations. Generally a great resource for Dutchman built T@Bs.(2004-2010).
Bob, how has this performed for you? My Cool Cat in my 2007 just died and I"m looking at alternatives. Ideally, I would love it on a slide so I could pull it out to run. I assume you have a drain pan....
Crystal & Daisy, a yellow 2007 T@B Q previously towed by a 2008 Jeep Liberty, and currently towed by a 2016 RAM 1500.
If you search files and photos on the Yahoo forum, I am sure there are some photos and frame drawings there. Also some DIY AC installations. Generally a great resource for Dutchman built T@Bs.(2004-2010).
Bob, how has this performed for you? My Cool Cat in my 2007 just died and I"m looking at alternatives. Ideally, I would love it on a slide so I could pull it out to run. I assume you have a drain pan....
Don't tell me that Crystal...... I want my CoolCat to last forever!!!!
TABaker Crystal, This unit has worked out very well. It is much quieter than the CoolCat yet seems completely capable of keeping up with very hot and humid weather. Also, it draws a lot less current starting and running which will allow operation on a 1kw generator if desired. The bottom of the aluminum liner around the AC unit in my installation is sloped toward the outside grate so any storm water or AC condensate drains to the exterior. I had removed and repaired my CC twice before this swap and have no regrets for making the change. BTW The CoolCat is a high quality unit built from standard components and can be readily maintained and repaired by a good AC technician. The big job is removing it from the trailer so it can be serviced. Good luck! Have fun. Stay safe and healthy! Bob
TABaker Crystal, This unit has worked out very well. It is much quieter than the CoolCat yet seems completely capable of keeping up with very hot and humid weather. Also, it draws a lot less current starting and running which will allow operation on a 1kw generator if desired. The bottom of the aluminum liner around the AC unit in my installation is sloped toward the outside grate so any storm water or AC condensate drains to the exterior. I had removed and repaired my CC twice before this swap and have no regrets for making the change. BTW The CoolCat is a high quality unit built from standard components and can be readily maintained and repaired by a good AC technician. The big job is removing it from the trailer so it can be serviced. Good luck! Have fun. Stay safe and healthy! Bob
@rfuss928- Bob, I just saw your response. Forgot to keep up with the thread. I was contemplating what to do, new CC or try an alternative. I was always told the CC is a closed unit and not repairable. Although I did read in a Roadtrek forum (went there because I know they utilize them) that someone was able to replace that switching mechanism that goes south eventually. Last fall when I contacted our local RV repair business, he said he wasn't able to get the CC but that he could put me on a list. Apparently COVID has stalled production. @Mouseketab- Carol, I tried to baby mine in the hopes it would keep on ticking. I didn't know if it was kind of like a generator, and that run hours would lead to an early demise, but I didn't really run it except at night while sleeping. However, I do camp over 50 nights a year... I was so sad when it began coming on in heat mode. Of course I knew what that meant. I could play with it through the remainder of late summer and get it to come on in cool mode, but that trick came to a standstill.
Crystal & Daisy, a yellow 2007 T@B Q previously towed by a 2008 Jeep Liberty, and currently towed by a 2016 RAM 1500.
TABaker Like so many things, the repair of the CC can quickly get quite expensive compared to replacement. Many of the parts are standard components available from HVAC supply distributers. I have some repair experience and two close friends in the business. In my case, the ceased CC compressor replacement part (the "sealed" part) was nearly $400 wholesale. Add in some small parts, Freon and labor and replacement cost starts to seem reasonable. Even with "free" labor, the cost was going to be $500++. The window unit I used was ~$150 and the remaining materials needed were inexpensive or in my stock. Admittedly some advanced DIY skills were helpful.
Ah, it feels so good; I'm in the right place. I have a 2009 with CoolCat A/C & Heatpump. I need to head down to AZ more frequently, and that means A/C while boondocking. Right now I have a single Honda eu2000i inverter, and no way can that run the CoolCat.
I like the portability of the Honda, it can do everything else I need, but the lack of watts for A/C has me concluding either upgrade my generator, or simply get something that doesn't require 2,800 watts. So, it looks like your Fridgidaire is my answer. Your mod looks suspiciously straightforward. I have done many mods on my T@b, generally handy, lots of tools, but the electronics always make me nervous.
Did you completely bypass the existing thermostat?
How does the new A/C handle road vibration?
Did you just use the existing drain hole under the CC for drip?
Do you have a problem with bugs nesting in the vents?
Did you do anything in particular to make service/maint/replacement easier?
My tentative plan is
A) Warm weather
Pull the CC
C) Duct like you did
D) Put in something similar
There are a ton of window A/Cs. Why did you pick yours? Also, briefly I saw a trace of someone with a video on Youtube, but have never been able to find it again. Is that you?
After that, the Norcold 3Way has to go. I'll use it for target practice, just because of the LPG mode. Always works in test at home. Never in the field.
Comments
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
EDIT 4/10/2021 - Yahoo group moved to io - link updated
https://groups.io/g/tabtrailers/album?id=136842
How far did you get on your install?
Here is a picture record of a 8000 btu window AC unit install in a 2009 T@B CS.
The Yahoo link in my previous post no longer is supported.
EDIT 4/10/2021 - New T@Bio forum link: https://groups.io/g/tabtrailers/album?id=136842 Pictures have captions in provided link.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
MOUSE-KE-T@B
2007 Dutchmen T@B Clamshell #2741
2022 nuCamp T@B 320 CS-S
2021 F-150 502A Lariat SuperCrew, 3.5 EcoBoost 4x2
Harvest, AL
Crystal, This unit has worked out very well. It is much quieter than the CoolCat yet seems completely capable of keeping up with very hot and humid weather. Also, it draws a lot less current starting and running which will allow operation on a 1kw generator if desired.
The bottom of the aluminum liner around the AC unit in my installation is sloped toward the outside grate so any storm water or AC condensate drains to the exterior.
I had removed and repaired my CC twice before this swap and have no regrets for making the change.
BTW The CoolCat is a high quality unit built from standard components and can be readily maintained and repaired by a good AC technician. The big job is removing it from the trailer so it can be serviced.
Good luck!
Have fun. Stay safe and healthy!
Bob
@Mouseketab- Carol, I tried to baby mine in the hopes it would keep on ticking. I didn't know if it was kind of like a generator, and that run hours would lead to an early demise, but I didn't really run it except at night while sleeping. However, I do camp over 50 nights a year... I was so sad when it began coming on in heat mode. Of course I knew what that meant. I could play with it through the remainder of late summer and get it to come on in cool mode, but that trick came to a standstill.
Like so many things, the repair of the CC can quickly get quite expensive compared to replacement. Many of the parts are standard components available from HVAC supply distributers. I have some repair experience and two close friends in the business. In my case, the ceased CC compressor replacement part (the "sealed" part) was nearly $400 wholesale. Add in some small parts, Freon and labor and replacement cost starts to seem reasonable. Even with "free" labor, the cost was going to be $500++.
The window unit I used was ~$150 and the remaining materials needed were inexpensive or in my stock. Admittedly some advanced DIY skills were helpful.
I found these deflectors greatly increased the efficiently of our unit. They are removed for travel.
Bob