Extra Storage Space and Jerry Cans

CincyKid

Thanks to this forum I was encouraged to add more storage space for the external items used at the camp-site (water hoses, sewage hoses, leveling blocks, etc.).  I found the perfect diamond plate tool box to add to the A-frame for the 320S so that all of those items would not have to be inside the storage space under the seating.  Here is the photo:



The sloped Toolbox is a Brait BR302 Aluminum Tool Box for ATV Storage Truck Pickup RV, 30" L, Silver available at Amazon for $168.99 with the dimensions of 30 x 13 x 13 inches and a good locking device and key.  It has a rubber seal round the top lid for keeping water out although I did find some water inside after a high wind rain day so I may put a few drain holes in the bottom.   You can find the box here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRICSB2/

I mounted it to the A-frame using 4 3/8" bolts.  The twin 2-gal water and 2-gal gasoline plastic jerry cans were purchased from Rotopax at this web-site and were not cheap https://rotopax.com/

CincyKid

jkjenn

CincyKid said:

Thanks to this forum I was encouraged to add more storage space for the external items used at the camp-site (water hoses, sewage hoses, leveling blocks, etc.).  I found the perfect diamond plate tool box to add to the A-frame for the 320S so that all of those items would not have to be inside the storage space under the seating.  Here is the photo:



The sloped Toolbox is a Brait BR302 Aluminum Tool Box for ATV Storage Truck Pickup RV, 30" L, Silver available at Amazon for $168.99 with the dimensions of 30 x 13 x 13 inches and a good locking device and key.  It has a rubber seal round the top lid for keeping water out although I did find some water inside after a high wind rain day so I may put a few drain holes in the bottom.   You can find the box here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRICSB2/

I mounted it to the A-frame using 4 3/8" bolts.  The twin 2-gal water and 2-gal gasoline plastic jerry cans were purchased from Rotopax at this web-site and were not cheap https://rotopax.com/

CincyKid

I have eyes those Rotopax for a while. They are really nice. Make sure you lock them up! I am still using a much more affordable under $20 Scepter can. You have enough room to mount an ammo can beside the Rotooax for your tools.

CincyKid

Those cans have the locking inserts.

peterac50

Thank you for the photo and the url to Amazon. Just ordered a Brait Box for my 2018 T@B 320S Boondock. Been looking for something for awhile. Did you use u bolts to attach or did you drill into the A-Frame. I am reluctant to do the latter.

CincyKid

I drilled into the A-frame with a 3/8" drill for metal.  As an engineer I didn't worry about the stress increase since the tongue weight is supposed to be limited to like 200 lbs, and there are already holes drilled in the frame for the hand crank tongue lift.  Because I am an engineer I put gasket material between the box and the A-frame to minimize any bimetallic corrosion, although that is probably not really an issue.  I also used lock washers under the nuts to make sure they never back off.  I had to move the stabilizer riding surfaces back about 4" on each side so the box would clear the tongue lift mechanism.  Working great so far.

peterac50

"I had to move the stabilizer riding surfaces back about 4" on each side so the box would clear the tongue lift mechanism. "

What is that? What is entailed in doing this? Picture?

peterac50

I just looked at your picture and it looks like you have a sway stabilizer bar installed on your boondock. Is that what you are talking about? I do not have one installed and during my first trip last week to Washington on I95 did not have any sway. My dealer said I would not need one.

CincyKid

Then you won't have to deal with that.  For me I had to loosen the nuts, slide the brackets aft, then re-tighten the nuts.

kybob

How do you secure the jerry cans to the platform while in route? From your neighbor in Florence, KY

kybob

Where did you get your sway bar installed?

CincyKid

Kentucky Bob, the cans stay right where they are, those black lugs mount them to sturdy steel L-brackets which are bolted to the brushed aluminum platform.  The sway stabilizers were installed by Holman Motors where I bought the trailer.  I am sure if you want them they will install for a price - they actually have quite an RV accessories store there as part of the dealership.  They are located about 2 miles east off I-275 at the exit you take for Eastgate Mall.

dsfdogs

@kybob I had my sway bar installed at the dealer.

CanyonTravelers

Have you had any problems with the gas pax, I read lots of problems with the tanks splitting from expanding pressure from heat and elevation changes. Rotopax has no venting to their tanks and recommends manually venting the tanks during your travels.

CincyKid

To be honest I haven't filled them yet, and yes you are right about all of the notices that came with them to vent them during your trip.  I anticipate using them when boondocking given the relatively low water capacity of the fresh water thank.  I have two Honda generators for power and hence the need for gas.  I carried gas in my car on a trip west and the fumes were prevalent in the car. 

CincyKid

I earlier left a comment that did not show here so adding this comment again.  @CanyonTravelers where did you buy your sliding hardware for under the refrigerator?  Seems Menards has some but nothing like success (yours) to breed confidence.

NinjaHippie

CincyKid said:

Kentucky Bob, the cans stay right where they are, those black lugs mount them to sturdy steel L-brackets which are bolted to the brushed aluminum platform.  

Are they the factory Rotopax brackets or did you fab something?  I have the same trailer -color and all and have been planning something similar.

CincyKid

I used factory Rotopax brackets which are fine dimensionally if you want the cans horizontal in position, but are too short if you want to stand the Jerry cans vertically (see photo below).  I thought the cans looked better and fitted the width of the Boondock aluminum shelf better if vertically oriented.  So to create a spacer I bought some 1-1/2" angle irons  using two each bolted together to create a "U" channel that was just the right spacer height to stand the cans vertically.  I also had to buy longer bolts.  You could use a 1-1/2" wood spacer as well but I wanted something that would not rot over time.  Sorry, I don't have a photo of the final bolted assembly to show here just now.

NinjaHippie

@CincyKid Thank you!

rga

I called NuCamp today to try to determine the what the maximum tongue weight on the 320S Outback can be to not void the warranty. A technician told me it was approx. 15% of the dry vehicle weight, 15% X 1788 = 268lbs. Subtract the 200lbs of the included propane, battery, and metal encasement that comes with the trailer and that leaves you 68lbs to work with. Add your 4x2gal cans (80lbs at 20lbs each) and it seems that the warrantied tongue weight is exceeded before adding the extra tool box and tool items.
I'm adding a Honda 2200i (47.5lbs) and an aluminum box for that (18lbs) and I'm a bit over. The actual calculation for the tongue wt. is to measure the distance from the end of the tongue to the middle of the trailer's axle (let's call that D1), then measure the distance from the end of the tongue to the center of each item your adding (let's call that D2). The weight added to the tongue by additional items is calculated as (D1 - D2)X10 = % of weight that is added to the tongue. I haven't measured the distances yet...
Just so folks are cautious about adding too much! Please correct me if I'm wrong.

CincyKid

The jerry cans are 2 gallons each for 16 lbs for the water + 14 lbs for the gas = 30 lbs.  Add another 20 lbs for hardware = 50 lbs.  Of this weight on some is applied to the tongue since some is also applied to the two wheels since the weight is split between them.  Now typically the tongue weight is calculated to make sure you have that amount to help reduce swerving by the trailer, too little weight can cause swerving.  My hitch is rated for 1000 lbs so I am not worried at all (my car is rated to pull 7200 lbs).

rga

Hi CincyKid,

Your calc needs to be doubled to 60lbs. You have two cans for water and two for gas (4 gal. of water & 4 gal. of gas: (4x8)+(4x7)=60lbs). And what is the weight of the gear going in your added forward metal chest?

I don’t, however, know how much weight is transferred off you’re tongue by your stab/sway rig. The fact remains that I believe it’s the weight on the trailer’s tongue that is the guiding number, not the tow or hitch capacity. You say too little weight can cause swerve. What happens with too much weight? 

NuCamp’s specs state a maximum tounge weight for everyone, not just for those with a more-than-sufficient TV. Could it be that the trailer’s frame’s tongue is the weak spot? Seems so, as excess tongue weight may void their warranty per my phone call. That’s my concern; the max tongue wt, not the min. That’s perhaps why T@B puts the max tongue wt in their specs...

So as I add stuff to the platform and in front of it, I’ll keep a very close eye on the tongue weight!
Best,
Bob
PS- your skills are admirable!

CincyKid

oops, right you are.  The toolbox and items probably weight about 30 lbs.  So that would be maybe 100 lbs split about 60% on the hitch and 40% on the wheels, not including the weight transferred by the stabilizing bars.

EmergencyKen

M@bel’s latest mod: we also added “Jerry cans” for extra fuel and water to our boondock platform:  2019 T@B 320S. 

Wavian USA JC0020RVS Red Authentic NATO Jerry Fuel Can and Spout System (20 Liter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011AJF0PE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OUJVCb2VC8EDP

Wavian USA 3216 5 Gallon Dring Water Can with Spout UV Stabilized BPA Free Textured Military Grade Heavy Duty Anti Bacterial Resin Made in Australia (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7C0SFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xVJVCbBM5SB6Q

NATO Style Steel Jerry Can Holder for 20 Liter (5 Gal.) Cans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVFTDVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4VJVCbERF77SJ