trailer jack problem

jackooloosie

Greetings all! I'm new to the forum having just purchased a used, good condition 2007 T@B. Well, in condition except for the 'trailer jack' mechanism -- which appears to be stripped. Is it possible to buy a replacement 'trailer jack' mechanism? Also, I'm told that the sealed wheel bearings are actually a Lada part. Might anyone know the part # I would use to order one to carry as a spare? Thanks, Jack (Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada)

rkj__

I'm not sure about the bearings, but you have lots of options for replacing the tongue jack.  You can use the same style, or retrofit a slightly different one if you like.

https://www.campingworld.com/auto-stabilization-performance/jacks-leveling/tongue-jacks

jackooloosie

Thanks very much for the link, rkj__! I'm guessing that non-electric would be better than electric. Is there one on that page that you think would be most appropriate for a (relatively) lightweight trailer like that T@B?

Sharon_is_SAM

Try etrailer.  You can talk to them and they will make recommendations.

rkj__

jackooloosie said:

Thanks very much for the link, rkj__! I'm guessing that non-electric would be better than electric. Is there one on that page that you think would be most appropriate for a (relatively) lightweight trailer like that T@B?

I'd probably just replace it with the most direct replacement to whatever came on the trailer.  You can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Dutchmen T@bs came with a top wind jack like this one:

https://www.campingworld.com/top-wind-bal-tongue-jack

The jacks are typically quite universal.  You should be able to find one at Canadian Tire, or other hardware stores that sell utility trailers or trailer accessories. 

jackooloosie

Thanks, both -- super-helpful, and greatly appreciated!

mash2

Have you looked here....

http://www.al-ko.com/shop/uk_vt/products/caravan-accessories-1/jockey-wheels-accessories.html

rfuss928

jackooloosie , The link mash2 has provided are the correct items to replace the original style jockey wheel/jack.  It is kind of unlikely the threads are stripped.  Make sure you understand the operation.  It has only about six inch travel.  You initially lower the entire assembly by loosening the side clamping lever, re-tighten, then use the top crank to lift the trailer.  When retracted the fork arms for the wheel need to engage in the slots on the end of the tube to prevent rotation when lifted and traveling.

Many DM owners upgraded to the pneumatic model for easier rolling after disconnected from the TV .  The handle is a nice accessory also.

The bearings are stocked by NuCamp.  They are for ALKO 1636 hubs.  It is also a good idea to have a brake rebuild kit.  The brakes are often destroyed when the bearing fails if not caught in the earliest stages.

These are a couple examples I found on ebay.  I think the parts NuCamp stocks are genuine ALKO and more complete kits than these examples.

Bearing kit:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealed-Bearing-Kit-Dac3060w-Al-ko-1637-Alko-Mp1871b/132544398896?hash=item1edc430630:g:BkUAAOSw8xFa0qcN

Break kit:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Brakes-160x35mm-for-ALKO-1637-1635-1636G-384-481-384-296-Brian-James-x2/191104001408?hash=item2c7eafa580:g:yDcAAOSwv-NWVCoI

I carry both bearing and brake kits with me always.  I had a failure a few years back that would have been less disruptive if I didn't have to locate repair parts and then wait for expensive overnight delivery.

Have Fun!!

Bob

jackooloosie

Thanks for the super-helpful post, Bob -- greatly appreciated!

achapman2007

I have a similar problem to jackooloosie -- I have a 2004 Dutchmen T@B trailer.  The original jockey wheel was kind of beat up (dropped a couple of times during travel) so I ordered a replacement from Little Guy when they were T@B dealers.  Instead of the 2 part mechanism with a solid wheel they sent a single part (for cranking the wheel up or down) with a pneumatic tire.  This one piece jockey wheel can't easily be removed during travel (I just paid a mechanic $$ to do it -- because it's all one piece you have to remove the cover and do complicated things to change it out).  I think I prefer a solid wheel and wonder if I can just use the "new" jockey wheel with a solid wheel replacement(?)  Alternatively I'll just replace the whole thing.  I have had problems with it dropping during travel, and feel like bungee cords are a poor protective mechanism.   Any recommendations beyond those mentioned above?   

rfuss928

achapman2007 said:

because it's all one piece you have to remove the cover and do complicated things to change it out 

The complete OEM assembly (and replacements) are quickly and easily removed by loosening the clamp lever and cranking the wheel/fork assembly out the bottom and lifting the crank handle assembly out the top.  Two minutes total with nothing under the cover involved.  Installation is these steps in reverse.