Replace rear Stabilizer with true scissor leveling jack.(100% bolt on)

Dalehelman

I have been ask if can make and ship these adapters to those who do not have the ability to make there own. The answer is yes on a limited basis. They can be installed with no modifications to the trailer or the jacks. All that is needed is a 9/16” wrench. Remove 3 nuts from each stabilizer. Line up adapter on 2 existing bolts/studs. Bolt jack to 2 remaining bolts/studs. It’s that easy. 
Delivered price  $42.50 includes USPS Priority Mail within the US. 
PM me if interested or email [email protected]

Jacks can be purchased at Camping World and other outlets for about $70 per pair.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FC74P6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_S3UkBbDZZXFRS

Marceline

Just to clarify - Do these jacks allow the trailer to be leveled both front-to-back AND side-to-side without the use of a BAL leveler or blocks? 

ericnliz

@Marceline, The front to back level can be adjusted with the tongue jack, up, or down accordingly. These level the side, to side level. Very easy to level without having to use any other type level. Love mine. I level mine side-to-side first, then level front to rear. Then I lower the front stabilizers.

Marceline

ericnliz said:

@Marceline, The front to back level can be adjusted with the tongue jack, up, or down accordingly. These level the side, to side level. Very easy to level without having to use any other type level. Love mine. I level mine side-to-side first, then level front to rear. Then I lower the front stabilizers.

I wish that I'd known about this when I was in Wenatchee. 

dinzzy

So...no more Bal Leverer?

Dalehelman

Correct. No more anything.

[email protected]

Just to clarify..........the $42.50 is for the plates, we would have to purchase the jacks on our own?

Dalehelman

[email protected] said:

Just to clarify..........the $42.50 is for the plates, we would have to purchase the jacks on our own?

Yes

Dalehelman

Anyone else who may be interested at this time please let me know. We will be leaving for Tearstock and then ÜCamp next week. If you are attending either one of these events I will have a couple sets with me. 

klenger

Are these still available?  Will they work with the Boondock edition and have enough travel w/o additional blocks?

Dalehelman

Sorry I don’t have any of the adapter plates available at this time. Probably will be 3 to 4 weeks till I will have time. If you have an electric drill and a hack saw you can make your own. I use 30” jacks for boondock trailers instead of 24”. Here is a ruff drawing with Measurements. Note the Circled dimension
Is 5 1/4” not 5 3/4”.

klenger

@Dalehelman:  Thank you much for the information.  I plan to move forward with this mod, but I still can't visualize how the scissor jacks are attached to the adapter plate.  A bit more information please.  Which holes in the scissor jack mounting plate are used and which bolts on the adapter plate do they fit to?

Dalehelman

Here are some more photos 
The jacks lineup with the two bolts that are circled.
The far right bolt is a 3/8”x 1” carriage bolt fitted in a square hole made with a file.
The two left bolts are the current  stabilizer mounting bolts 

klenger

Thank you for the quick response.  I think I get it now.  The jacks attach using only one of the original bolts that I assume are attached to the frame internally, and the outer bolt simply holds the jack in place and the weight of the trailer rests on the outboard side of the jack, w/o any real attachment to the frame.  Correct?  How thick is the material you use for the adapter plate?  I can probably get 1/4" but not sure.

Dalehelman

3/16 x2” works perfect and is easier to work with.

BrianZ

This is what I used (and it was 3/16x2" steel)..

Dalehelman

Elevator bolts are a little better but harder to find and more expensive. When we were at NuCamp last summer they had buckets full of them. I do grind down heads of the carriage bolts for a better fit.

klenger

@Dalehelman:  Sorry to be a pest, ... Did you ever consider adding an additional bolt through the floor to catch the outboard mounting hold on the jack?  I was able to peel back the flooring on the R.H. side just inside the storage door and can feel what I assume are the elevator bolts you described above.  It seems like it would be very simple to (carefully) drill an additional hole for the outboard bolts.  The Alde hoses are right above that location on the R.H. side, so I would move those out of the way to add the bolt and then put them back in the same place.

Dalehelman

Most people are reluctant to make modifications especially when it comes to drilling holes. If you are comfortable with it I see no reason not to. The only reason the bracket is there is to hold the jack when not in use. 

Amazonica

Hi @Dalehelman. Thank you, another GREAT mod! My list keeps growing everytime I log in. 
Questions:
1. Will this work with a 400 Boondock?
2. Can I still use the original wrench/socket-tool (?) to lower these new levelers?
3. If this will work on a 2020 400 Boondock, are the 30" levelers (link you provided in older thread on this topic) the correct ones to purchase?
4. Are you still selling your adapter brackets?

Amazonica

Is this still the correct replacement bolt, or should it be 2 inches long? 2 of them (one for each jack, reusing two original bolts) and the original nuts?

Tampakayaker

So the advantage of these jacks, is that they are stronger/sturdier than the factory stabilizers, and can be used to "jack up"/level the [email protected]?

Amazonica

That's what I am getting from the discussions. I am solo, my Andersen Leveler works well, but I have to leave the jeep running while I jump out to see if I'm level on the Andersen wedge, pull forward or backup. I'm thinking with these, I won't have that extra block/wedge to carry around, and I can turn off the vehicle, and even unhook and then level.

Dalehelman

Sorry I have know ideas regarding 400. 

Dalehelman

Amazonica said:

That's what I am getting from the discussions. I am solo, my Andersen Leveler works well, but I have to leave the jeep running while I jump out to see if I'm level on the Andersen wedge, pull forward or backup. I'm thinking with these, I won't have that extra block/wedge to carry around, and I can turn off the vehicle, and even unhook and then level.

Correct 

Amazonica

Bummer. Thank you. 

Dalehelman

Amazonica said:

Is this still the correct replacement bolt, or should it be 2 inches long? 2 of them (one for each jack, reusing two original bolts) and the original nuts?

Amazonica said:

Is this still the correct replacement bolt, or should it be 2 inches long? 2 of them (one for each jack, reusing two original bolts) and the original nuts?

Correct 

VictoriaP

Amazonica said:

That's what I am getting from the discussions. I am solo, my Andersen Leveler works well, but I have to leave the jeep running while I jump out to see if I'm level on the Andersen wedge, pull forward or backup. I'm thinking with these, I won't have that extra block/wedge to carry around, and I can turn off the vehicle, and even unhook and then level.

Off topic, but consider getting a Bluetooth leveling system so you can monitor the trailer level from your vehicle. I don’t have personal recommendations as I went a different route, but I know a search here would find some, as several members have installed them. It’s a super simple solution to having to jump out of the car just to check level.

Amazonica

Thank you VictoriaP. I'm new to trailers and towing and sincerely appreciate suggestions.  I didn't even know there was such a thing.

VictoriaP

Amazonica said:

Thank you VictoriaP. I'm new to trailers and towing and sincerely appreciate suggestions.  I didn't even know there was such a thing.

It won’t do the actual leveling for you, you’d still use the Andersen, but it will tell you when you’re level.

Amazonica

Understood. It would be SO great if Bluetooth could level my trailer! Right now I'm using a dollar store ruler/level placed in the doorway.