Surge Protection

Deltaboy59

Didn't mean to suggest one was better than the other... I apologize. Just considering advantages and disadvantages of using both methods for those considering a purchase...I'm sure it can be removed...but like a car it is no longer "all original"...lol.
Also thought ChanW comment about surge protection being safer outside RV should be noted again here for those interested.
i don't intend on trading my t@b maxx s for the near future either... But I say that about everything until somthing new comes along...

mawebb

I finally installed my surge protector. I installed it next to the converter, as that space seems to be dedicated to electrical and plumbing. It also made sense, as the light on the face of the surge protector can be seen when the plywood cover is lifted. This is also the area that I installed my battery switch.

I had to drill a new hold to feed the wire from the outside 110 VAC connection to the input end of the surge protector. The wire is quite stiff, due to the gauge, but all in all it went quite well. Note that with the Surge Guard 30 Amp hard-wired model, that you cannot mount it flat on the floor, not that there was room to do so. Also the instructions indicate that you should separate the strands of the wire and place half on each side of the terminal. Since the wire is a solid conductor, I cut a half inch of bare wire and placed it on the opposite side of the screw terminal to allow the screw to bind the wire evenly. It takes some careful work, but makes the connection that much more secure. Note that I did discuss this method with an electrician and it is common practice for the type of terminals found on this device.

I forgot to bring the vacuum from home, so I could not clean up the sawdust from drilling the hole for the wire. I will do that another day.

I was able to re-use one of the original cable clamps to secure the wire on the input side. The wire to the converter was so short, one was not needed.

Note that the Surge Guard was mounted as high as it could go, with the upper screw mounts against the horizontal support.

There is not a lot of room to spare, so check the placement carefully before drilling the hole for the wire. Also when you cut the wire, make sure there is enough from the external connection to allow you to appropriately dress the cable. In my case there was about 4-6  inches of cable that was eliminated, but that is all.

SmallFootprint

cam42 said:

gg144 check this video out. http://youtu.be/O5eP2pCf4zM

I have this exact model installed in my T@b Max cs-s.  I have to find out why it keeps reading that I have crossed polarity.  I've checked everything I can think of with my voltage meter.  When the protector is on everything works except for the outlets.  When it's off - everything works, including the outlets.  Any ideas or suggestions?  My brother is a licensed electrician so I'll have him come and look at it also but wondered if anyone has had similar issues.

mawebb

Crossed polarity would indicate that the hot and neutral are reversed. With your meter, measure the black wire with the other probe touching the ground wire. If it reads zero or close to zero, check the white wire. If it reads 110 VAC, then the hot and neutral are reversed for sure. If this is the case, then it could be that the outlet on the side of the T@B, where you connect the shore cord, is mis-wired. This also assumes that the outlet you are connecting the shore cord to is wired correctly. 

In terms of why some things work and others not, I am assuming you are indicating that the fan, TV, entertainment system and lights work at all times. This would be due to the fact that they are DC and would run off the battery when there is no AC connected to the T@B. 

One other thought is for you to ensure that the black (hot) wires are connected to the correct terminals in your surge protector. The terminals should be marked or denoted by the color of the screw. The standard is brass for hot (black wire) and silver for neutral (white wire) and green for ground (bare copper wire). Also make sure that your input and load side are the correct way around. I am not sure how it would react to the input on the load side and the load on the input side, but I am guessing it would indicate some type of fault. 

SmallFootprint

Thank you Martin!  The wires inside the surge protector are installed correctly according to the schematic but I will test them to make sure.  I have it connected to a shore line that runs to my house (which is also surge protected).  I'll keep checking the wires that I can access.  I really appreciate your expertise.  I had forgotten about the AC/DC differences. That makes complete sense.  Thanks again!

Trum@n

Mounted a Progressive in the dividing wall by the power center.

SmallFootprint

Trum@n did you install that yourself?  Ours is in the same place with the read out against the wall.  Works very well there except that I'm going to have to put a dark fabric flap over it...the constant red flashing letters and numbers are very distracting.  It's like experiencing a miniature version of New Years Eve in Times Square.  :-)

SmallFootprint

mawebb said:

Crossed polarity would indicate that the hot and neutral are reversed. With your meter, measure the black wire with the other probe touching the ground wire. If it reads zero or close to zero, check the white wire. If it reads 110 VAC, then the hot and neutral are reversed for sure. If this is the case, then it could be that the outlet on the side of the T@B, where you connect the shore cord, is mis-wired. This also assumes that the outlet you are connecting the shore cord to is wired correctly. 

In terms of why some things work and others not, I am assuming you are indicating that the fan, TV, entertainment system and lights work at all times. This would be due to the fact that they are DC and would run off the battery when there is no AC connected to the T@B. 

One other thought is for you to ensure that the black (hot) wires are connected to the correct terminals in your surge protector. The terminals should be marked or denoted by the color of the screw. The standard is brass for hot (black wire) and silver for neutral (white wire) and green for ground (bare copper wire). Also make sure that your input and load side are the correct way around. I am not sure how it would react to the input on the load side and the load on the input side, but I am guessing it would indicate some type of fault. 

I found the problem Martin.  You were right about the shore cord being in an outlet that was improperly wired.  I fixed the wiring and now have a clean reading.  Thanks again for your insight.

Trum@n

Yes SmallFootprint but my readout is on the front of the unit so I can't see it unless I open the bench which I wanted so it wouldn't light up the inside of the t@b at night.