I'm adding solar to my T@B today!

Wross

Flexible solar panels that adhere to the curved shape
http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Solar-PVL-136-PowerBond-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B002MWFFWM/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_5_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=115817RMCH4S7MNJ90KX
I had to cut them so they cover the top, and I'm installing 2 for 272 watts. Along with my portable 100 watt panel my total is 372 watts!
check back to see pics after it is finished

Nomad

Wow, that's a lot of watts?

kybob

Will you be at Tearstock? I'd like to see this in person.

Wross

Hi Pxlated, it's enoug to power everything but A/C. I hope to find a way to conquer that sometime without having to use a generator 
kybob, I'm in Austin TX if you get down this way. Tear stock is farther than my T@B has ever traveled, we mainly go to music festivals and events and camping close by.

im about 50% done today, hope to get it done tomorrow, for the PV panel install. 
I'm Going to install the inside wiring and charge controler another weekend.

walter

kybob

I'm looking forward to the pictures.

Nomad

Unseasonably hot where I am at the moment - 96 in the shade ... Generator has been used more hours today then the whole last month.

jkjenn

PXLated said:

Unseasonably hot where I am at the moment - 96 in the shade ... Generator has been used more hours today then the whole last month.

We had a fresh trace of snow and it was around 17 F this AM.

Nomad

My goal in life now is to avoid snow and below freezing cold at all costs - Secondly, avoid this extreme heat. I'd be gone already but have an appt. on Monday to get the bearings greased.

Wross

Here is the update

Wross

The first solar panel is installed, with a solar controller mounted on the wall next to the table. It has 2 USB ports, and is easy to see when you sit at the table/ bed
the wires are routed in from the back to the 30 amp controller, then down to join the battery leads at the power distribution box.

Wross

I'm not happy with the wires that join the segments of the solar panels, so I've ordered some flat wire.
the next panel will be joined with a less visible flat wire, and hopefully i will get them straight. As you can see the 2 small parts are a bit to the left towards the top. They are adhesive on the back and once applied they will not move!
i will fill in the borders with a black coating to make them look better.

on a technical note: all connections are soldered and insulated, then sealed with a UV proof 30 year pure silicon. 10 Gage stranded for short connections, and 8 gauge for the run to the controller, then to join the battery leads.

i may go back and replace the $38 PWM controller with a MPPT, but for the price and size, this works great. 

Wross

mash2

On the connectors at the back of the T@B.  If you remove the tail light and cut a small hole, you can thread the solar down the inside well of the Tab.  I then put the tail light back on and used silicon to seal the space.  They just disappear into the place by the handle and thread themselves under the vehicle (there is a curved area on the outside edge of the tab (used plastic tubing to hold them in place).  

Looks like you cut one of the panels.  Is it possible to just cut them and use the remainder?  I've got unisolar 68's that fit, along either side of the fan, but have a spare one that is too long to fit into place behind the fan.  I'd consider cutting of the excess if it doesn't cause any problems.  

mash2

I ran the cables up to the location where the other wires came in and then hooked them thru at this location.  Look at the Tracer MPPt controller.  I switched over a while back and the MPPT seem to work much better at charging.  

Wross

mash2 said:

On the connectors at the back of the T@B.  If you remove the tail light and cut a small hole, you can thread the solar down the inside well of the Tab.  I then put the tail light back on and used silicon to seal the space.  They just disappear into the place by the handle and thread themselves under the vehicle (there is a curved area on the outside edge of the tab (used plastic tubing to hold them in place).  

Looks like you cut one of the panels.  Is it possible to just cut them and use the remainder?  I've got unisolar 68's that fit, along either side of the fan, but have a spare one that is too long to fit into place behind the fan.  I'd consider cutting of the excess if it doesn't cause any problems.  

I found several utube videos and articles on how to cut and rejoin the pannels. I didnt find unisolar 68's so I cut and used the remander to fill in in front and behind the fan. To cut is easy. To rejoin ( or terminate) is a pain, you need to scrape off the plastic, solder wires to it, etc.
if you shorten the length, you will reduce the voltage by each individual section you remove.

EWizard

Can you comment on the performance of these flexible panels?
I also live in Austin, TX and know there's always tons of sun.
I picked up my first T@B last weekend (2005 "U" model), and am starting to look at solar as a way to keep the battery topped off while off grid.
Also, what batteries are you feeding?

mash2

These are unisolar's.  They are too long to fit on T@B (Wross ut and shortened and spliced back together to get them to fit.  I have unisolar 68's which fit well, but are extremely rare to find these days (I actually ordered a spare from India a while back).  

My batteries are Lifeline 100A AGM (wired parallel for 200A total storage).  

EWizard

@mash2, do you have your batteries stored in the stock location (tongue box)?
Those Zamp portable panels sure look nice but I would be scared they'd get stolen.  
I've never thought there would be any low-life's that would steal stuff from the campground, but my sister-in-law's family had a bunch of stuff stolen while they were out hiking in Big Bend National Park.
It was well over a thousand dollars worth of stuff.  :-(

mash2

I actually moved my batteries (sealed AGM's) to rest over each wheel well inside the T@B.  Didn't like the added tongue weight when in the stock location (I originally installed 2 group 27 AGM's in the stock location ... they fit, but added too much tongue weight on the TV I was using at the time).  I've replaced the tow vehicle with something a bit beefier, but still like the towing experience from slightly less tongue weight. 

EWizard

Interesting point.  There looks to be much space in that area to store batteries.
I bet you could even trade the batteries in the stock location with another propane tank.
Do you know what the function of the little box is that is in the front of the T@B underneath near the front that the batteries connect to?

jkjenn

EWizard said:

Interesting point.  There looks to be much space in that area to store batteries.
I bet you could even trade the batteries in the stock location with another propane tank.
Do you know what the function of the little box is that is in the front of the T@B underneath near the front that the batteries connect to?

If you move inside you need to make sure that you switch from Lead acid or vent them properly.

That is a sort of junction box for wiring going in/out of T@b.

EWizard

Looks like Trojan makes an AGM version of the great T105 6V golf cart battery!
Enter the Reliant T105-AGM!

mash2

Ewizard.  If I'm not mistaken, the little box (it has a red cover?) is the circuit breaker on the DM.  Richard Lewis has an electrical troubleshooting document on the yahoo group that indicates this. 

EWizard

Thanks!  I will look for it.