Overly Engineered Dual 6V T105AGM Batteries in Outback Tub

SteveW

Wanted to share the big project just completed and after much lurking and researching on the board my overly engineered solution to 2 x 6V golf cart batteries in the outback tub.

Decided on AGM batteries - because I don't want to be bothered with checking acid levels etc. Worth the upcharge for me. Trojan Reliant T105 AGM's were selected after far more research than was probably needed - Purchased through my local Batteries+ Bulbs. Also took someones recommendation to get the lifter - smart recommendation that.

I wanted to address a couple of concerns raised in this forum in this build - Specifically not just to friction fit the batteries but actually secure them in place and then to address the lack of a battery box.

Here's what I came up with that seems to be additive to other folks : -

Anti-slip mat under the batteries - It's a router mat from my wood working hobby but anti-slip rug matting would work as well.

1 1/2" Aluminum angle bar bolted in place to prevent movement to the right - The propane bracket works just fine for the left side.

1 1/2" Stainless anchor ring inside the tub, through bolted to it's sister directly below. This allows for a strap to run under the frame of the shelf to clamp the batteries and tub down. Wasn't keen on letting that much weight bounce around and the tub is only held down with 4 bolts to the frame.  This just seemed a better way to control the massive AGM's. There is just enough room in between the front of the battery and the tub to make this work - I used this specifically https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Light-Duty-Anchor-Points-4-Pack-54522/206967313

The strap from the outside ring was pulled through the gap between the stainless tub and plexiglass.

Cut plexiglass to make a back wall - just to minimize water ingress - two holes for my battery isolator switch and propane line. The strap from the outside ring was pulled through the gap between the stainless tub and plexiglass.

Rear View: -

Wiring access hole towards the bottom

Just because I had the offcut of plexiglass and a heat gun and too much thinking time - added a self made drip edge to keep water away from the holes. Beads of caulk at each plexiglass ledge.

Result: -

DeltaPop had mentioned playing with a bluetooth battery monitor - That's the device post fuse. Powered it from the switched side of the battery isolation switch - because even though it can't possibly matter with the monster 217 Amp-Hours this setup gives didn't want to power it in storage. Plenty of room in the wire bundle to snake a little wire in

Finally and by far the most fiddly part of the build - a custom measured and cut lid and sides for the batteries: -

All nicely isolated from anything that can touch or bridge wires. The gap on the right side allows cable access from the bottom. I've since added a dedicated charger (Victron 15A) and velcroed down my box of gloves and hose bits to this top. Waiting on a marine power passthrough to complete that bit of the build - will update when I get it installed.

A couple of trips later - very happy with the result - especially that the fridge now runs for longer than 2 ish hours, fuse on the tow vehicle doesn't pop and that I am not left without rear camera or power brakes.

The charger add is necessary since at 50% the onboard WFCO took 4 days to float the new battery pack close to 100% - and post trip I just want to charge and store A@b Tab away.

Thanks to everyone who did something similar to this before me - know that I read all that I could find.

Sharon_is_SAM

Nice use of the plexiglass.  Shouldn’t there be vent holes for the LPG?

ChanW

@Sharon_is_SAM, I think I see some vent holes through the plexiglass wall in the very first picture?
Maybe there should be some near the floor too?

Sharon_is_SAM

I think the holes are for the battery disconnect and battery wiring.  Yes, it needs more holes near the floor!

WilliamA

Over-engineering is impossible.  Attention to detail always pays off.  Nice work.

WilliamA