all iI know is it is a 2017, 320s. Was told it has only been used twice (short trips) but the person has dogs which may or may not be a factor (per phone conversation)
I thought the "s" in 320s meant shower. We're happy using our 2005 Sienna, and we were told that it came with "tow package" which only meant a change to the cooling system, but we still had to have a hitch installed to pull a small utility trailer. That only needed wiring for a 4-wire connectorn but when we got our T@B, we had to have it rewired for 7-way connector, plus a brake controller & hot lead, which all came to over $500.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
BrianZ, have you had any problems using your Sienna to pull the 320s. I know ihave to get a good tow package to make it work. What about power on mountains. Also do you know inf there is much difference in the '17 model and the '18 model. If the one I have a lead on is in good shape, is $14000 a good buy?
We've not had any problems, although with a full load (2 bikes, 10x10 metal frame tent, supplies, etc inside the van) going up steep grades in the mountains will slow us down from 60+ mph to 50 or so & prevent using cruise control, which is normally possible on relatively level ground going 60-65. Don't know anything about the later models, but we may need to begin thinking about a new one in the next few years. Ours is still in good condition at 135K miles. PS: We bought our 2018 320s new for $17500, as a package deal (cousins got one too) from Wilmington RV in NC, and that was about $2K less than nearest dealer at the NC/SC border south of VA Beach.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
I would call Toyota and give them your VIN number to see if you have the tow package.
Definitely find out if your 1999 has engine tow package AND what the 1999 is rated for. We tow with a 2004 all of which came with tow package and 3500 lb Max tow rating.
Our Sienna had 175,000 miles when we bought our T@B 320s in November 2017. BrianZ's performance description is completely consistent with our experience.
Our hitch rides very low and we had a local tire shop install Airlift 1000 air bags in the rear coil springs to add an inch. They noticeably help ride and handling when towing. Had a different shop run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the 7 pin socket they installed too. The 7 pin socket is mounted sideways on the hitch - you can see silver valve cap on the Airlift 1000 Schrader valve.
Thanks, @rajamar, for the tip on the AirLift 1000 bags. We have always known that our aftermarket tow bar (not an option from Toyota apparently) fits rather low, but the Sienna's softer springs that give it a car-like ride also make it sag a bit while towing large loads. While not a major issue, we occasionally drag the bottom of our hitch (tightener bolts hang down) when going in/out of some driveways or gas stations.
So, I finally got around to looking into them, and all the positive reviews convinced me to give them a shot. A number of reviewers said it was an easy install, and I still had the old "creeper" & ramps, so yesterday I managed to install them myself..
The red cylinder above is one of the Air Lift "bags".
Ideally, a mechanic would put the car on a hydraulic lift, but I used ramps to make more space under the car, then used a Jack in the center to raise the car, which extends the coil springs to create more space between coils for inserting the deflated air bags. Wheels were never off the ramps though.
More space between coils makes a huge difference when it comes to not only inserting the bags, but also for connecting the air tubing to the bags. There's not a lot of working space, so for someone like me without much experience working on cars, this can take a while, like most of the day in my case. Some essential parts are not included in the kit, like cable hangers for mounting the hose in some places, hex screws (1/2" #10 self-tapping), and 3/8" split loom, and an extra long drill bit in one spot.
Here's what my installed air bag looks like. I used the prevailing recommended method of installing with the tubing connection at the top (contrary to the written instructions) to avoid having it close to the ground. To avoid leaving the bottom of the bag in direct contact with metal edges of the bottom moving end of the spring mounting, I inserted a disk of 1/4" non-compressible rubber under the bag.
I installed the air valve for pressurizing the bags in the back corner just above the hatch holding the jack, since there's access from underneath through a rubber grommet inside that compartment. The most time consuming part is running & mounting the air hoses. I used the method shown in detail in this video.. https://youtu.be/EF4UALNJcw0 I test drove the car without trailer, with bags inflated to 20psi, and I did notice better stability on turns, with less tilting. Will look forward to testing at 35psi with trailer to see how much difference it makes. I'm thinking it could also make a difference in being able to switch from jack plate to wheels on the jack, which at times can be difficult due to the sag in the rear end. PS: At 24 hours after test driving, pressure is holding, so no leaks!
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Nice job @BrianZ. We've had ours for nearly 18 months now - run them at 15psi when not towing (we live on a winding road and the Airlifts do help on the curves), 30psi when towing and they have had no leakage issues.
As a new 2022 Tab 320 owner, I just towed with a 2011 Toyota Sienna. Round trip about 4000 miles. Seemed pretty good, no issues with power going through the Appalachians. Instead of Airlifts, I had Timbrens installed to help with the squat and improve handling.
Comments
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
We're happy using our 2005 Sienna, and we were told that it came with "tow package" which only meant a change to the cooling system, but we still had to have a hitch installed to pull a small utility trailer. That only needed wiring for a 4-wire connectorn but when we got our T@B, we had to have it rewired for 7-way connector, plus a brake controller & hot lead, which all came to over $500.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Don't know anything about the later models, but we may need to begin thinking about a new one in the next few years. Ours is still in good condition at 135K miles.
PS: We bought our 2018 320s new for $17500, as a package deal (cousins got one too) from Wilmington RV in NC, and that was about $2K less than nearest dealer at the NC/SC border south of VA Beach.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Definitely find out if your 1999 has engine tow package AND what the 1999 is rated for. We tow with a 2004 all of which came with tow package and 3500 lb Max tow rating.
Our Sienna had 175,000 miles when we bought our T@B 320s in November 2017. BrianZ's performance description is completely consistent with our experience.
Our hitch rides very low and we had a local tire shop install Airlift 1000 air bags in the rear coil springs to add an inch. They noticeably help ride and handling when towing. Had a different shop run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the 7 pin socket they installed too. The 7 pin socket is mounted sideways on the hitch - you can see silver valve cap on the Airlift 1000 Schrader valve.
So, I finally got around to looking into them, and all the positive reviews convinced me to give them a shot. A number of reviewers said it was an easy install, and I still had the old "creeper" & ramps, so yesterday I managed to install them myself..
The red cylinder above is one of the Air Lift "bags".
Ideally, a mechanic would put the car on a hydraulic lift, but I used ramps to make more space under the car, then used a Jack in the center to raise the car, which extends the coil springs to create more space between coils for inserting the deflated air bags. Wheels were never off the ramps though.
More space between coils makes a huge difference when it comes to not only inserting the bags, but also for connecting the air tubing to the bags. There's not a lot of working space, so for someone like me without much experience working on cars, this can take a while, like most of the day in my case. Some essential parts are not included in the kit, like cable hangers for mounting the hose in some places, hex screws (1/2" #10 self-tapping), and 3/8" split loom, and an extra long drill bit in one spot.
Here's what my installed air bag looks like. I used the prevailing recommended method of installing with the tubing connection at the top (contrary to the written instructions) to avoid having it close to the ground. To avoid leaving the bottom of the bag in direct contact with metal edges of the bottom moving end of the spring mounting, I inserted a disk of 1/4" non-compressible rubber under the bag.
I installed the air valve for pressurizing the bags in the back corner just above the hatch holding the jack, since there's access from underneath through a rubber grommet inside that compartment. The most time consuming part is running & mounting the air hoses. I used the method shown in detail in this video..
https://youtu.be/EF4UALNJcw0
I test drove the car without trailer, with bags inflated to 20psi, and I did notice better stability on turns, with less tilting. Will look forward to testing at 35psi with trailer to see how much difference it makes. I'm thinking it could also make a difference in being able to switch from jack plate to wheels on the jack, which at times can be difficult due to the sag in the rear end.
PS:
At 24 hours after test driving, pressure is holding, so no leaks!
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2011 Toyota Sienna