Shower Door

stinkbug

Bumpy road and unlocked shower door resulted in door coming open during travel.  The magnetic strip inside the door worked loose and slid out onto the floor.  Upon replacement the door wouldn't stay closed.  Tried taking out the magnetic strip and replacing in the opposite direction and it worked again to stay closed.  Then placed a small screw at the bottom of the strip to hold it in place.  These doors have a small glued section to retain the magnetic strips and they don't hold very well/long.

EllenZ

Same thing happened to me. 3 weeks later I tried putting the magnetic strip back in he channel and his time it held. Of course the door isn't operating smoothly so something must have shifted 

Michigan_Mike

I sent a note on to the factory and will post up any information received.  If there is some type of adjustment or tweak I'll share it with you.

Thanks

creditlady

Hi! I've been a long time "creeper" on the forum. This is my first time posting a comment.

We just brought home our new 2016 T@B Max S last Thursday, then took it out Friday night for camping up at Table Mountain Campgrounds in the Angeles Forest, north-east of Los Angeles.

First time we opened the shower door, the magnetic strip slipped out. Didn't notice it right away in the dim light. As the door continued to open the strip broke into several pieces. With some help, we stuffed the pieces back into the track and duct taped it in place. Now that we've got the T@B back home, DH siliconed the end cap in place. We'll see how long it holds.

Thank you for providing this forum! We've certainly found the discussions quite useful.

I have more stories to tell, but will find the appropriate threads on which to add.

tomanni

Same thing happened with my T@b Outback and another one on display at the dealership. Will monitor this thread and post any solutions I may come across.

mickietucs

creditlady said:

Hi! I've been a long time "creeper" on the forum. This is my first time posting a comment.

We just brought home our new 2016 T@B Max S last Thursday, then took it out Friday night for camping up at Table Mountain Campgrounds in the Angeles Forest, north-east of Los Angeles.

First time we opened the shower door, the magnetic strip slipped out. Didn't notice it right away in the dim light. As the door continued to open the strip broke into several pieces. With some help, we stuffed the pieces back into the track and duct taped it in place. Now that we've got the T@B back home, DH siliconed the end cap in place. We'll see how long it holds.

Thank you for providing this forum! We've certainly found the discussions quite useful.

I have more stories to tell, but will find the appropriate threads on which to add.

While working in my new 2016 today I saw the little tiny piece of plastic (end piece?) that supposedly holds the vertical strip up had fallen out the bottom and the strip dropped down. I figured out how to put the piece back in the track but I can't say it'll hold (especially when I take it out the first time in a few weeks).  What can I do to keep it in place?  Isn't silicone to make things slide? Or do I get a different type of silicone (sorry, newbie here!). Guess the factory hasn't changed anything (to have this happen on a brand new '16)? Thanks!

Photomom

I am guessing they are talking about a silicone caulk.

mickietucs

Photomom said:

I am guessing they are talking about a silicone caulk.

Ah,,,okay - I'll pick some up and try that. Thank you ---

Nomad

That'd be my guess also - You can get small tubes in whatever color your little heart desires :-)
I got my last tube at Home Depot in the paint area.

Nomad

So, being a "Caulkacologist", does that mean you can lay down a nice even bead with a chalk gun? Unlike us mere mortals :-)

bgualtieri

Mickie -- we used gorilla glue/super glue to hold the end piece and the magnet strip in.  Just a little bead on the end piece

mickietucs

bgualtieri said:

Mickie -- we used gorilla glue/super glue to hold the end piece and the magnet strip in.  Just a little bead on the end piece

I'll put gorilla glue on my list as well -- I'm surprised that piece isn't already glued in.  By the way, I did as you all suggested to the stabilizers - first sprayed with silicone and PXL will like this - I "muscled" them! The front were pretty tight but after that first good turn, they came down easily. The back ones were near as tight.

Lil_L's_Sofitel_15

As a crafter and knowing many here are crafty as well, I am surprised no one mentioned hot glue. It is the go-to for Lots of things. And not messy at all. And clear .... It is what I did when my shower door did the same thing. All Fixed!

ChanW

Wow, nice instruction, connie6465.

Now if only I could follow instructions worth a darn... B-/

connie6465 said:

1.  PXLated:  For highly siliconized caulks like bathroom/kitchen stuff:   1.  Mask off where you can.   2.  Have spray bottle with water and roughly 10% liquid dish soap (Joy, Dawn, etc).  3.  Have plenty of rags handy.  4.  Run your bead of caulk  5.  Spray liquid on rag and on your finger.  6.  Wipe bead rapidly, maybe 3 or 4 inches at a time, wiping finger on rag and spraying finger and rag often.  Work in rapid succession.  7.  Pull masking tape and repeat wiping process again, using finger or thumb, depending on radius desired.  8.  One last longer wiping strokes if necessary, making sure to keep fingers/rag moist.     Other hints:  The highly siliconized caulks smear and can be messy if not done right.  Have paper or something handy to put the masking tape on when you pull it off.   Twisting or "rolling" your finger when you wipe the beads after pulling the masking tape will help in directing the bead where you want it, or don't want it.  For instance, if using white caulk around a toilet that has a colored tile, roll your finger up and away from the tile as you wipe the caulk.  If you don't roll your finger the bead will smear onto the tile.  Again, many many small strokes, wiping finger on rag each time, works much better tan one long swipe.  The final strokes can be longer for a uniform appearance.   Masking off usually takes longer than the whole process described above...the caulking/wiping actually should proceed rapidly.
For Latex caulks on wood, etc, no need for masking, and just water and wet rags works well (no soap), and longer strokes. 

RollingLagrima

Mine did the same thing last week when I went to tinker for a few minutes (only broke into two pieces though). I didn't have any glue but covered the rail exit with a command strip sort of wedge in there. 'Not expecting it to hold forever, but so far so good. 

Nomad

Wonder what the deal is with that, mine are 18 months old and fine. Bad batches of magnatized rubber?

RollingLagrima

Dunno. There has been mention of an "end cap".  At this point I don't have one. Do you PXLated?

jkjenn

PXLated said:

Wonder what the deal is with that, mine are 18 months old and fine. Bad batches of magnatized rubber?

I wondered the same thing.

Nomad

Salley - No end cap on mine, just a solid magnet strip from top to bottom.

RollingLagrima

That is the difference.  I have a skinny square metal flexible rod that is seated in a rail running from top to bottom.  Some sort of end cap at the bottom was holding this flexi-rod vertically in the rail.  At some point for several of us, gravity won and the end cap came off which resulted in the flexi-rod dropping out and breaking as it hit the floor by the shower door.  It sounds like your magnet is glued straight onto the door and does not ride in a channel/rail? I'll take a couple
Pics of mine... 

Nomad

Here's what mine looks like - the magnet strip goes all the way to the bottom of the door...

RollingLagrima

First pic shows the trajedy (end cap or whatever was holding the magnetic strip up in the rail failed).  Second pic shows my temp solution after shoving the broken pieces back up into the track. It works, but also messes with the rubber water deflector at the bottom of the doorway. Third shows the track looking at it from the top of the door looking down.  Those that used shoe goo, how did you apply this? Along the back of the 8 inches or so of the mag strip that are accessible from the bottom of the door shove it back up in track and cross your fingers, or some other way? Thxs.

TaB2go

  Verna - Anything yet on a fix for binding shower door and shredding rubber seal at bottom.  thanks.     Jim

Verna

TaB2go said:

  Verna - Anything yet on a fix for binding shower door and shredding rubber seal at bottom.  thanks.     Jim

Jim, I haven't heard anything. I guess I need to follow up.

Verna

Here's the official fix for the 2016 shower doors from Ed at Pleasant Valley:

Hi Verna, 

We have seen this issue on a few other T@B's. The fix for this is on the shower side of the door there are a few screws by the hinge. You will want to back those screws out and move the door up, maybe 1/4" or so, then drill new holes and insert the screws into the new holes drilled. 

Thanks,

Ed

TaB2go

Thanks Verna for your quick reply tonight. Will plan to use this fix ASAP and will let you know the outcome.     Jim

Verna

TaB2go said:

Thanks Verna for your quick reply tonight. Will plan to use this fix ASAP and will let you know the outcome.     Jim

You're very welcome, Jim. Yes, please tell us how it goes. Pictures are always appreciated. 

TaB2go

  Verna, just finished razing shower door. Just about 1/6" inch did the trick. Although, there is a small opening at the of the door, rubber just not tall enough to meet the door bottom. Will just watch the direction of shower head. Did the best I could, door opens and closes just fine now, no hang ups or shredding of the rubber.
   Thanks so much for your help. This forum, its moderators and members-AWESOME!    JIM
 

TaB2go

  Sorry for no pix, but we really do not know how to do that at this time. Maybe we will learn at some point. Lucky i can do what i do on this thing.

Verna

You're very welcome, Jim.