Need help troubleshooting please. Water stopped coming out of the sink.

gkillmaster

This morning, I turned the pump on and water came out of the sink normally. The tank was at 15%. I topped the tank off (to 100%) and when I turn the pump on and open the sink tap, no water comes out any more. I tried draining some water out of the cold water drain and fresh water drain but still no water reaches the sink. Any ideas on what to try would be greatly appreciated.

Greg K.

jkjenn

You probably have an air lock. Try:

Flushing the toilet or

Disconnect from the freshwater tank side of the pump and suck until water moves (don't pass out.)

gkillmaster

jkjenn said:

You probably have an air lock. Try:

Flushing the toilet or

Disconnect from the freshwater tank side of the pump and suck until water moves (don't pass out.)

Thanks! going to try this out today sometime. Much appreciated! I'll report back if it worked.

gkillmaster

jkjenn said:

You probably have an air lock. Try:

Flushing the toilet or

Disconnect from the freshwater tank side of the pump and suck until water moves (don't pass out.)

I've been trying this with no luck. I disconnect from the fresh water tank side (attaches to a filter) and when I turn the pump on, I can hear water gurgling. And when I reconnect, air gets passed through the sink faucet but never flows freely and at some point just stops again. After I disconnect, how long should I let the pump run? I tried about 3 minutes and it just gurgled the whole time. I tried 3 times. We don't have a toilet in our unit. Just grey water. Just a kitchen sink and outdoor shower outlet.

MuttonChops

Suggest you run pump longer say 5+ minutes with sink and shower off.  Then while pump is on or off, open & close each faucet in short bursts.  Thought being you have air trapped in the water lines . . . pump running longer will increase pressure . . . short bursts might isolate line with most air.

Just an idea of course.

gkillmaster

MuttonChops said:

Suggest you run pump longer say 5+ minutes with sink and shower off.  Then while pump is on or off, open & close each faucet in short bursts.  Thought being you have air trapped in the water lines . . . pump running longer will increase pressure . . . short bursts might isolate line with most air.

Just an idea of course.

@MuttonChops, I will try this now! What position is the relief valve supposed to be in, flat horizontal, or upright?

gkillmaster

gkillmaster said:

MuttonChops said:

Suggest you run pump longer say 5+ minutes with sink and shower off.  Then while pump is on or off, open & close each faucet in short bursts.  Thought being you have air trapped in the water lines . . . pump running longer will increase pressure . . . short bursts might isolate line with most air.

Just an idea of course.

@MuttonChops, I will try this now! What position is the relief valve supposed to be in, flat horizontal, or upright?

this didn't work either. I tried leaving it on for 10+ minutes last try with no luck.

Sharon_is_SAM

@gkillmaster, please see your discussion “flush water tank with bleach”.  I think your valves are wrong resulting in the inability for water to move.

(I wrote this before I saw your bleach flushing discussion, so it probably does not apply.  Have you tried turning off the pump and hooking up to the city water.  Then open your taps (sink and outside shower) and clear the air.  Turn off the taps, disconnect from city water and with a full fresh tank, and stabilizers up, raise your tongue all the way.  Turn on the pump and open your sink tap.  That may help move any air.  

@Michigan_Mike has also suggested to disconnect the intake line if the pump and blow air towards the pump (watch the pressure) just in case some debris has occluded the tank outlet.

Also, check your pump to make sure it can continue to draw water.  Disconnect the intake side and submerge the line in a bucket of water.  Does it pick up the water?

Michigan_Mike

Open up the bench area where the Alde unit is located, take a photo of your valve and piping configuration and post it up here so we can see it.  The pressure relief handle should be in the horizontal position.  

And we had suggested earlier that you remove the filter cover and filter from the pump body, inspect it and clean out any plastic particles.  Did you find anything in that area?  When re-attaching the pump you want to ensure that the filter and water line fittings are nice and snug once they are screwed back on.   

One more question or refresher, when you attach a garden hose to the city water side port, does everything work properly in the trailer and are you getting good water pressure and hot water once the Alde system runs for a half hour or so?   

Sharon_is_SAM

I think his issue occured when he was attempting to bypass the Alde and he only closed the hot water valve.

gkillmaster

Thank you all! I'm working on this now and will post back. I also tried with the hot and cold water Alde cutoffs in the bypass position. I'll check everything and send photos shortly. I really appreciate all your help!

gkillmaster

Michigan_Mike said:

Open up the bench area where the Alde unit is located, take a photo of your valve and piping configuration and post it up here so we can see it.  The pressure relief handle should be in the horizontal position.  

And we had suggested earlier that you remove the filter cover and filter from the pump body, inspect it and clean out any plastic particles.  Did you find anything in that area?  When re-attaching the pump you want to ensure that the filter and water line fittings are nice and snug once they are screwed back on.   

One more question or refresher, when you attach a garden hose to the city water side port, does everything work properly in the trailer and are you getting good water pressure and hot water once the Alde system runs for a half hour or so?   

Will send a pic soon. I did remove the filter cover and filter and there was a small amount of plastic debris in there but it didn't really change anything. Also, I undid the supply side of the pump and I didn't try to suck up water with the pump, but I did put my palm against it and it sucked air enough to draw my skin against the opening! And yes, I get good water pressure when I use the city direct input... Thank you!

gkillmaster

 Relief valve in horizontal position and the other valves are in the winterizing positions just like the photos below. When I started this whole thing, the cold water bypass to the Alde was in straight position, but I've switched it now so its exactly like the photo below. Hooked up to city water, everything seems to work fine. I get strong flow of both hot and cold water, but once I switch to fresh water tank, the flow goes down and stops completely in about a minute even with the pump running.

Sharon_is_SAM

You may have an obstruction in the fresh tank outlet.  Try blowing air back into the fresh water tank.

gkillmaster

Sharon_is_SAM said:

You may have an obstruction in the fresh tank outlet.  Try blowing air back into the fresh water tank.

through the fresh water tank drain outlet?

BrianZ

I think she means into the hose going into the water pump.  I did that once before like this..

But you could also try a water hose instead of air (would still need an adapter).
Another idea, without an adapter, might be to disconnect both pump hoses (disconnect any city water hose & release pressure first by draining some out), then connect the input hose to the output side of the pump (if it will reach) so you can blow into the fresh water tank line.  

MuttonChops

@gkillmaster

OK, let's recap.
We have a Sink and Outside Shower plumbing configuration.
The Adle is correctly in By-Pass mode.
When City Water is connected, everything works correctly . . . hot & cold water have pressure and flow.
When City Water is not connected and the Pump is used, pressure/flow stop as soon as city water built up pressure is released/used.

So something is wrong with the Pump or Pump water lines.

[] fresh water tank vent could be blocked - - - low likelihood

[] fresh water feed line could be blocked - - - can you blow air into the hose (hose that connects to Pump filter) and hear bubbles in the tank?

[] Are all pump fitting air tight? No leaks.

[] If sure pump feed line is clear and no air leaks, time to remove the pump.

Consider Taking Pump apart**, confirm there is no junk in the passages, put back together and try pumping again.

** I've pulled and disassembled mine while camping so it's not a big/difficult task. Only tricky step with pump plastic head assembly is getting it back on in the correct position so the pump can be mounted on the wall with correct in – out fitting locations.

gkillmaster

BrianZ said:

I think she means into the hose going into the water pump.  I did that once before like this..

But you could also try a water hose instead of air.
Another idea, without an adapter, might be to disconnect both pump hoses (disconnect any city water hose & release pressure first by draining some out), then connect the input hose to the output side of the pump so you can blow into the fresh water tank line.  

Wow! Thanks a lot! I have the air compressor to hose adapter and pressure regulator but no compressor. We are moving across the country and we packed our air compressor :( darn.

gkillmaster

MuttonChops said:

@gkillmaster

OK, let's recap.
We have a Sink and Outside Shower plumbing configuration.
The Adle is correctly in By-Pass mode.
When City Water is connected, everything works correctly . . . hot & cold water have pressure and flow.
When City Water is not connected and the Pump is used, pressure/flow stop as soon as city water built up pressure is released/used.

So something is wrong with the Pump or Pump water lines.

[] fresh water tank vent could be blocked - - - low likelihood

[] fresh water feed line could be blocked - - - can you blow air into the hose (hose that connects to Pump filter) and hear bubbles in the tank?

[] Are all pump fitting air tight? No leaks.

[] If sure pump feed line is clear and no air leaks, time to remove the pump.

Consider Taking Pump apart**, confirm there is no junk in the passages, put back together and try pumping again.

** I've pulled and disassembled mine while camping so it's not a big/difficult task. Only tricky step with pump plastic head assembly is getting it back on in the correct position so the pump can be mounted on the wall with correct in – out fitting locations.

ok, going to go through this check list. will respond with result. Really appreciate this.. yes, just a sink and outside shower. I haven't even paid any attention to the shower so far...

JEB

There is another possibility I encountered in my old RV--you may have developed a kink in the fresh water supply line that runs from the pump into your fresh tank.  Sometimes, when the supply line is not adequately secured, just the suction from the pump can cause the line to kink, particularly if you've drained the tank recently and there's no water in the supply line.  To see if you can isolate where the problem lies, you might want to try hooking a new supply line to the pump temporarily and run it into a large container or bucket of water.  If the pump draws and you get water to the sink, then you know for sure that the pump and plumbing between the pump and the sink faucet are fine and the problem lies somewhere between the pump and your freshwater tank.  I'd then bet the supply line is kinked or blocked.

gkillmaster

I think I found the problem! There is a piece of what looks like white silicone adhesive that has obstructed the pump intake line. I was able to use tweezers and pull some of it out but it broke off. I can blow it back and forth in the hose and hear it move from side to side. Where can I buy a replacement? I assume it for use with potable water so much be "food grade"?

gkillmaster

gunk lurking...

I called the manufacturer, Accor Technology and they are sending me a new one but won't be here for my cross country trip. Going to look for a replacement locally. Hope I can find a lead free food based hose like this...

JEB

Depending on your level of bravery, you could get an ice pick or similar tool and see if you can break up the obstruction enough that it can be sucked out by the pump and collected in the filter basket.

gkillmaster

JEB said:

Depending on your level of bravery, you could get an ice pick or similar tool and see if you can break up the obstruction enough that it can be sucked out by the pump and collected in the filter basket.

good idea! I'll try something like that! I just hooked it back up and its still restricted. Was hoping to get by for the meantime. Do you know of any lead free food safe hoses that could replace this off hand? Or what kind of store would even carry a replacement like this. Its female on both ends and the only drinking safe ones I can find on amazon are standard male on one end and female on the other and they are super long.

JanandDave

This is from Amazon, but any decent home store should have one. 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch (both female) faucet supply line.

https://www.amazon.com/Vataler-Connector-Stainless-Straight-Replacement/dp/B07CGPNV5M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1VANAZK3Q6WVJ&keywords=1%2F2+inch+supply+line&qid=1556821275&s=gateway&sprefix=1%2F2+inch+supply%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

JanandDave

another link from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-B4F12-Connector-Braided-Stainless/dp/B000BPDBQY/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=1%2F2+inch+supply+line&qid=1556823124&s=gateway&sr=8-26

gkillmaster

JanandDave said:

another link from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-B4F12-Connector-Braided-Stainless/dp/B000BPDBQY/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=1%2F2+inch+supply+line&qid=1556823124&s=gateway&sr=8-26

JanandDave said:

another link from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-B4F12-Connector-Braided-Stainless/dp/B000BPDBQY/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=1%2F2+inch+supply+line&qid=1556823124&s=gateway&sr=8-26

Thanks JanandDave!!

ScottG

If you are looking for a quick replacement and have a decent plumbing store near you, go there. Bring the part you are trying to replace. I suspect it's a pretty common connector, but even if they don't have an exact duplicate, they might be able to help you cobble something together with the proper mix of adapters.

JEB

Another possibility is using a tool with a bit more muscle.  Since you're likely going to have to replace the hose anyway, order a set of straight forceps with the longest nose you can find.  Then grab hold of the obstruction, lock it down and then pull really hard.  You'll either pull out the obstruction, rip apart the fitting, or both.  Here's only one of many possibilities.  https://www.amazon.com/PREMIUM-SERRATED-TUNGSTEN-HTI-BRAND/dp/B00K6U8DZS/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/131-2097782-9082255?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00K6U8DZS&pd_rd_r=cd3507a1-6d1b-11e9-9381-ffdfe42e5ee6&pd_rd_w=AjbOs&pd_rd_wg=8GiZR&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=AFJK2YK4GTXQXB5ZD283&psc=1&refRID=AFJK2YK4GTXQXB5ZD283

Needle nose pliers might also work if long enough and you could get a good enough grip.

BrianZ

Have you tried unscrewing the other end of the hose, removing it & hooking the pump end to a water hose to try blowing it back out the other end?  If it got into the hose that way, seems like it should be able to get back out the same way.  Maybe not, but worth a try.

PS: Awesome that you were able to find the culprit - that's half the battle, maybe more.

gkillmaster

Thanks for the idea. Its a good one. But I doubt it would push it out cause of the shape and size of it. Next episode in the saga is that I'm not getting hot water now. Have to figure that out next!