Newbie with some questions about Trailer / wheels

Michael49

Newbie here! I have already learned a ton just from searching here.

Just purchased a used 2018 T@B 400! First camper for long time tenters!

The inside looks great but I've noticed that the trailer and wheels have some issues.  Previous owner took it across country last summer. During the Winter it sat outside in New Hampshire. I towed it home 2.5 hours without any issues. 

You can see the rust on the frame which I removed and painted - kind of surprised to see this in a 1 year old trailer!

My next plan was to add some grease to the bearings via the Zerk fitting, but when I looked closely at the wheels I was shocked by the amount of rust on the hubs!! Also, I noticed that a lug nut is cracked. 

I assume I'll need to replace the lug nut, but what about the hubs? Can I remove the rust and paint them or should I replace them? Should I plan on checking the brakes as part of this maintenance?

Thanks for your input in advance guys.

Sharon_is_SAM

Sat outside - was it covered?  Did they have it on salted roads?  I would definitely check the brakes.   Nice job removing the rust.

db_cooper

We bought a 1 yr old 320s that sat outside without a cover in the PNW.  Not exactly rust belt, but looked similar to yours.  We live on Puget Sound which is saltwater, but not open ocean, even so brakes on our cars rust quick.  I used a wire brush to remove the rust from the axle and a few spots on the frame, and then sprayed with Boeshield T9.  Reapply every fall and spring,  hasn't gotten worse.  

I don't think you should worry too much, but just stay on top of it. Boeshield is great stuff,  I use it on bike chains too. 

I know they say duct tape and WD-40 will fix anything, but I've upgraded to Gorilla tape and Boeshield.

4ncar

They’re break drums...they’re fine. Can’t hurt to pull them and check the shoes & springs.  The split lug nut will fail state safety inspection, not to mention just a hood idea to replace.

N7SHG_Ham

The axle is Dexter and all the parts are available direct from their online store. The frame you painted takes a beating from road salt and sand from the tow vehicle, so good to fix that, but it will be right back if you tow in those conditions. Brake drums are probably OK, however I would pull, check bearings, seals and repack and of course check brakes at same time, that is a yearly maintenance per Dexter.

The cracked nut is I belive the stainless decorative skin and not actually the nut, still may want replace it but if I am correct it is only affecting the appearance.

Michael49

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Sat outside - was it covered?  Did they have it on salted roads?  I would definitely check the brakes.   Nice job removing the test.

It was covered, they gave us a cover with it. Roads are definitely salted in the Winter here but not sure if it was used on salted roads.

Michael49

Thanks for the input guys. Any video here on how to check the brakes?

In terms of bearing grease I was planning on just adding a little and not totally replacing as I'm concerned about getting it into the brakes. 

Sharon_is_SAM

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6984/axle-maintenance-greasing-or-repacking/p1

There is a video from Dexter on how to use the  zerk fitting within this thread.  Good read, too.

N7SHG_Ham

Bear in mind this is a used unit over 12 months old, the recommended Dexter service is pulling drums/hubs and inspecting everything, not just shooting in some new grease. It is 12mo/12k for that full service. Being a used unit with no idea on miles I would do it right to know what you have. About the only two things on a Tab that will leave you alongside the road is a failed hub/bearing and a blown tire, keep up on those for many trouble free towing miles.

Sharon_is_SAM

I disagree.  This topic was discussed at uCamp.  I believe the problem is terminology.  The traditional use of the term repack means to remove the hub and manually clean and “repack” the grease - which Dexter advocates for their “standard” (non-EZ lube) bearings.  https://www.dexteraxle.com/resources/videos/bearing-maintenance

Dexter has confused the issue because they use the term “repack” when discussing the EZ lube procedure.  https://www.dexteraxle.com/resources/videos/bearing-maintenance

Use of the EZ lube system is “repacking” using the zerk fitting instead of disassembling the hub.  What is the point of the zerk lubrication system otherwise?  I think the real question is, if lubing every year or 12,000 miles as recommended by Dexter, 
how do you know when to inspect the bearings?  I found an answer on the Forest River forum.  Someone suggested that any evidence of lube that appears milky (water infiltration), gray or with particles (metal shavings) indicates a need to pull the hub and inspect the bearings.  Also, feeling your hubs at rest breaks while traveling is a good habit.

Also, there has been discussion on this forum of the amount of grease that each hub required the first time they used the zerk system.  It is not unusual to require most of a 14 oz grease canister on each hub.  I believe @MuttonChops had a good explanation for this in that at production, there was limited grease used to pack the bearings.  I also found a report of Dexter axles replaced under warranty due to failure from insufficient grease at manufacture.  So, now I think it is a good idea to be proactive and lube via the zerk early on in ownership.

N7SHG_Ham

@Sharon_is_SAM the 12k/12mo is also an inspection of components including brakes. I see no way around pulling hubs/drums off and actually looking once a year minimum. Sure I guess you could just pump grease in as a "repack" , but for the guy here with a used trailer with unknown miles, I would highly suggest doing the removal and inspection to get a baseline condition report.

I personally think if you are pulling and inspecting, replacing parts as needed and repacking, then there is no need normally to ever grease using the zerk between full services. I have a Wells Cargo trailer with over 30k miles doing it how I suggest with zero issues, I have never hooked the grease gun up between servicing. FYI, at least once the inner grease seal needed replaced before the 12k limit and prompted an earlier service.

I also belive Dexter has a 6mo interval for brake inspection/adjustment which reinforces the idea of how important it is to look at components.

Having said all that, I may pump grease in my new 400 hubs just to make sure they are full, simply because I am short on time to do a teardown with a trip planned this weekend, but it is only been off dealer lot for two months and components should still be in good condition.

MuttonChops

Sharon_is_SAM said:

 . . .  also found a report of Dexter axles replaced under warranty due to failure from insufficient grease at manufacture. 

  Please provide a link to the report you found.

Sharon_is_SAM

http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f219/dexter-ez-lube-axles-lube-how-often-141490.html

Check 2nd comment By Ripley711 on  8/8/2017.  First page.

@N7SHG_Ham - I agree that anyone acquiring a used trailer should do a complete inspection.  I just wanted to clarify the terminology in relation to lubricating.

MuttonChops

Sharon_is_SAM said:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f219/dexter-ez-lube-axles-lube-how-often-141490.html

Check 2nd comment By Ripley711 on  8/8/2017.  First page.

Thanks.

So the "report" is an anecdotal account of one person / one trailer.  Not a Dexter Factory or USDOT Report on failure rates.

Sharon_is_SAM

Yes - an anecdotal account reported by one user😊

Michael49

Thanks for the input guys. I plan on using the Zerk fitting to add/replace the grease.

A few other questions:
1. Do I have to worry about grease getting into the brakes using the Zerk fitting?
1. Any info on how to check/service the brakes?
2. Can I use a scissor car jack to lift the 400?

N7SHG_Ham

@Michael49 I would higly recommend either hireing it out or doing it yourself and that is a full service, not just pumping in grease on a used trailer, need to gets eyes on the bearings, seals, brakes, etc. ALL you need to know about Dexter axles: https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/manuals/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf?sfvrsn=42

Sharon_is_SAM

@Michael49, from what I have read, if you avoid a powered grease gun and just pump it by hand while rotating, it is unlikely that you will rupture the seal.  If you see anything suspect, I agree with @N7SHG_Ham to inspect the bearings, etc.

Recent thread on brake adjustment:
http://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/119540#Comment_119540
  

For the 320s and 400s you want to use a bottle/scissor jack to lift the camper – mounting location right behind the tire where the Axle and Frame meet. You need to make sure to lower the stabilizer jacks on the opposite side and have the trailer connected to your tow vehicle for stability. 

Here is one thread on the jack point.  Do a search and you will find more.
http://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8159/tab-400-jacking-points

tabiphile

Michael49 said:

A few other questions:
1. Do I have to worry about grease getting into the brakes using the Zerk fitting?
1. Any info on how to check/service the brakes?
2. Can I use a scissor car jack to lift the 400?

1)...only if you blow a seal or if you have a blown seal. Since you do not have the service history of the axle you might be well served to pull the drum and have a look to determine if there are any issues. If you are not familiar with that service it is doable but may be better done by a mechanic so that you start with your service at a known baseline...what N7SHG_Ham is suggesting.
2) See the related thread about adjusting the brakes. If you have done brakes before then you know not to over-loosen and unthread the adjuster. The advice given to adjust and turn until there is a slight drag/rubbing is correct. Check the drum temperature after a few miles of driving and loosen it if it's too hot. If your seals are blown then you need to replace the pads and clean the drums before you reassemble. Drums can be a real PITA so again, having a mechanic get you to a known baseline is a great idea.
3) If you have a floor jack use it instead. Bottle and scissor jacks are not the best option for home shop use. If they are not precisely placed they will shift. Hence the suggestion to jack the T@B while attached to the tv. Scissor jacks will bend and twist. Use them only when you need to, roadside. Regardless of what jack you do use, put your jack stands in place before you start to lift. Adjust the stands up as you go. Break your wheel lugs loose before you start to jack the trailer up. The nuts should be very tight and the tire/wheel will spin without loosening the nut if you have it off the ground even a small amount. Do not remove the lugs before you jack the trailer up, only break them free so that you can remove them once the wheel is up. Once you can freely spin the wheel you have lifted far enough. After making sure the jack stands are secure, remove the wheel. Hopefully you have a torque wrench/breaker bar in your kit so that you can put them back properly.

WRT blowing seals with a grease gun....it can be done even with a hand operated gun. Air is your enemy as is aggressively pumping grease. The key to using the grease gun correctly is to make sure that you use the bleeder on the gun before you start putting grease into the grease fitting. You must always bleed the gun when a new cartridge is installed. Once it is bled, then you should pump grease through the tube until the gun is delivering grease without any air. When the gun is ready attach it to the Zerk fitting and slowly start pumping in grease while turning the wheel to push the grease through the bearing. If the grease looks good and is coming out readily, you may decide to stop and call it a day.
If you plan to replace the grease, a trick some folks use is to use two different color greases so that you can tell when the new grease has replaced the old...the red Lucas or Mobile One grease is often used for that. I keep two grease guns in my shop, one red, one blue....
The key here is to make sure that you use the same grease type...if you mix grease types the carriers will fail and your grease will run out like thick oil.
If you see any signs of metal in the grease after you pull the cap stop and take the trailer to a mechanic. Any metal in the grease suggests either a failed bearing or worse, a damaged spindle. Good luck. It's great to be able to do these tasks yourself. 

N7SHG_Ham

@tabiphile good stuff! I use Mobile One grease on another Dexter axle equipped trailer and it turns gray fairly quick with use, haven't found need to use different colors, it is obvious when the new grease has made it through the hub.

tabiphile

It's also worth mentioning that when you replace the wheel that you do not tighten the nuts in a clockwise or counter-clockwise sequence. Wheel lugs need to be first snugged up to hold the wheel in place and then you tighten (with your torque wrench) always going to the nut opposite (on the other since of the hub) next. So as an example, start with one on the top and then next do one opposite on the bottom. Then return to the one adjacent at the top as you work your way through the five lugs. You will need to do the little tire just touching the ground trick to get the nuts really tight. Be sure to stop and re-torque within 50 to 100 miles.