Removing the toilet altogether in a 320S

sqrpeg

After a year and a half we’ve decided we aren’t ever going to use the toilet in our 2018 320S, and so I’m now in the process of removing it to have more space in the shower stall.

The toilet and black tank are still “pristine”, and the plan is to leave the tank and toilet flange in place, sealed with a cleanout plug.

The top of the toilet flange protrudes above the level of the shower pan, so I’ll need to build some sort of raised platform to clear it. But before I do that, I want to make sure the flange itself remains sealed around its edges, since water might still get to it under the new platform when we use the shower. nuCamp used a (still-gooey) black caulk all around the edge of the flange, which I had to disturb in order to slide out the toilet mounting bolts. Does anyone know the specific product nuCamp uses, and/or how best to restore the seal around the edge of the flange? (I'm still a total newbie on RV sealants).

Also, if anyone has done a similar mod, pointers and pictures would be hugely appreciated. I’ve read @Haloo 's excellent Composting toilet installation in a T@B 400 write-up, and would love to see comparable info on how folks have modified the 320 shower floor for either a different toilet or no toilet at all.

Thanks!

sqrpeg

Here are some photos of what I ended up doing, in case it's of interest to anyone else. Our overall goal was to have more room to maneuver when showering, and to have more space when we use the stall for storage.

Basically, I removed the toilet but left the flange in place. I then built a platform from HDPE plastic to cover the flange and provide a stable floor. The cover is held in place using the existing mounting slots of the flange.

First, here's the stall with toilet removed and supply line capped:


I used the standard Oatey 3" cleanout plug, but cut down the bolt and replaced the wing nut to reduce overall height. I replaced the two toilet mounting bolts with tee nuts that were (heavily) modified to slide into the existing slots of the flange. I chose this approach because I didn't want the nut side of the bolt to be on top of the platform where it would get stepped on, etc. - but this did end up making things a lot harder.


I used two layers of 3/4" HDPE sheet for the flange cover. The top layer is 14x12", the bottom layer is made up of 1" strips screwed in along the edge and sealed with silicone. This gave me ~3/4" clearance underneath for the flange, and the overall platform height matched (ish) the height of the ledge along the outboard side of the stall.


I went with 14x12" because I didn't want to deal with the curved corners and sides of the stall. Even so, the stall floor was not exactly flat, so I used marine/auto weatherstrip as the seal along the bottom.


Here's the cover mounted in place. Stainless screws with neoprene washers.


When the stall is in "storage mode", we mostly pile packs, etc., on top of the new cover. I also built a wooden support for the food drawers that used to be precariously balanced on top of the toilet. Now the drawers open through the shower doorway.



Worked fine so far on a week-long shakedown trip. Overall we're happy with how it turned out.

Marceline

It looks good but I would be careful about traveling with anything with hard edges in there (like an aluminum table or camp chairs, for example). I think that it’s easier to crack fiberglass than some people realize. 

sqrpeg

Totally agree. While traveling, we only put soft/well-padded items in there (if anything at all). Same thing when we're at camp, plus the plastic drawers. The 2x4 support has bumpers on the ends, just in case.