Surge Protection Help Needed

elton
elton Member Posts: 13
in Air Conditioning & Refrigeration
I have read most all previous comments on surge protection within this site, but remain confussed about what is actually needed to protect my 2017 T@B. I live in Fl and camp mostly is State Parks and RV Resorts...so far. I hope to use a generator and boondock camp and/or use Core of Engineering sites. My concern is the Low/High Pwr/ Protection needed as well as Lightning Surge protection for all these facilities. Protectors range in price greatly. Some people do without protection but I am inclined to buy it, but what do I buy? Ares RV sites realy getting away with providing poorly regulated power? Lighting protection is necessary, but is LOW and HIGH voltage conditions an issue for 30 Amp line voltage, really?  Please help by recommending what a newbee should buy and where to buy it.
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Comments

  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Member Posts: 1,940
    I agree that in N.A. having anything more than Surge Protection is most likely not needed.

    My unit is a standard low end protector, checks that power is wired correct and provides surge protection.
    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures:  58   Nights:  405  Towing Miles 50,180
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  • N7SHG_Ham
    N7SHG_Ham Member Posts: 1,261
    RV hookups can be a bit of an unknown and I think why the warnings. You have a bunch of 20/30/50 amp hookups with who knows what hooked to them and you have zero knowledge of how they are all hooked up at the source in the campground. Sure they should all meet electric codes, BUT you could have issues due to lots of heavy loads coming on line. In another life far away I serviced photo copiers and in some locations with large electrical loads like elevators starting and stopping, a surge protector and/or power conditioner was needed to keep the machines going due to "dirty" electric power. I think the electronics in an RV could have issues. Absolutely necessary? Probably not, but to protect your RV probably not a bad idea.
    2019 T@B 400 Boondock Lite
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  • BrianZ
    BrianZ Member Posts: 1,770
    We've been using one of these..
    Camco PowerDefender Circuit Analyzer With Integrated Surge Protection and Indicator Lights, 30 Amp Male to 30 Amp Female (55310) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGJH8QU

    -Brian in Chester, Virginia
    TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
    RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods 
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  • jkjenn
    jkjenn Member Posts: 6,417
    Having been saved 2x by a Power Mnagaement system like a Progressive Industries  system, I think if I could only afford one mode to my T@b it would be that. I have been spared from bad wiring as well as a power surge from lightning. Ongoing monitoring and not just an initial test is essential for protecting you and your T@b, IMHO.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • rfuss928
    rfuss928 Member Posts: 1,181
    X2 for Progressive Industries.  I have EMS-HM30C


    Several times had low voltage protection kick in and once bad ground fault from a bad cable.

    I never have to worry about what I am connecting to - great peace of mind.
    Highly recommended.


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  • Rolltide82
    Rolltide82 Member Posts: 89
    edited September 2018
    I have the hm30 also...good product
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  • Sharon_is_SAM
    Sharon_is_SAM Member Posts: 10,061
    Electric Management Systems are not an option if you wish to maximally protect your TaB and you. I disagree that having more than a simple surge protector in North America is overkill.  Newer RV parks and campgrounds may have upgraded wiring and intact grounding systems and follow required maintenance.  But there are plenty of places that are not keeping up their equipment.  Establishment and maintenance of electric pedestals in private campgrounds can vary dramatically and state/public facilities are budget dependent.  Read Mike Sokol’s work on RV electrical safety to get up to date on RVs potential electrical hazards.  You can’t be too safe.  Current recommendation to maximally protect your RV electronics from an electrical storm is to turn everything off in your camper and unhook from the pedestal, use battery during the storm as necessary.  Of course, you don’t want to be out in the middle of a storm messing with power cords, so, do it ahead of time if you can.  Regarding protection from surge as well as low voltage (which can ruin things like air conditioners over time), you must consider that pedestals share a circuit and a surge of power or low voltage due to many RVs on a circuit can impact your pedestal.  It is not just about your own personal 30 amp outlet.  Pedestals are connected via circuits and one that is damaged a couple sites away may impact yours.  Your best bet is an EMS PT30X.

    http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x

    You can get them at Amazon or just do a search for EMS PT30 and many different sources will come up.  Yes, they are more expensive than your basic surge protector, but they offer a lot more protection.  We use a cable with a pad lock to lock it to the pedestal.
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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  • dhauf
    dhauf Member Posts: 199
    I agree, I just ordered one of these and hopefully will have some time to install it myself this weekend.  

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC6RSA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Then I won’t worry about it, and won’t have to carry an extra dog bone with me.
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  • Homebodyatheart
    Homebodyatheart Member Posts: 2,516


    I always use mine, and cable lock it to the power pole.
    2017 T@B 320 Max S silver and cherry red, L@dybug ("Bug" aka my esc@pe pod), TV 2015 Toyota Highlander aka Big Red
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  • dsfdogs
    dsfdogs Member Posts: 640
    edited September 2018
    X3 for what Sharon posted. I read about the differences in each price point and wanted more than surge protection and glad I did.

    While camping this week at a state park, I plugged in my EMS-PT30. This protector runs a diagnostic before passing power to the cord. It produced a Reverse Polarity error! I spoke with the camp host and he said it's a known problem (ranger claims it can't be fixed??). Thankfully the host loaned me a 20 to 30 amp plug and that outlet tested ok.

    Neither of us knew the harm of plugging into a reverse polarity outlet, but I wasn't going to chance it. Also lesson learned, bring my 20 to 30 amp dog bone.

    Debbie in Oregon
    Sold 2023 Tab 400
    Sold 2018 T@B 320S

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  • dhauf
    dhauf Member Posts: 199
    edited September 2018
    I just installed my hardwire EMS on Sunday.  Turned out great and no noticeable noise.  I just prefer this set up myself as I don't have to remember to bring anything else with me, it also has a bypass switch for the open ground so you can still use it with a generator and have the benefit of still being surge protected.  Took me about 45 mins to install.  I used a command strip adhesive to mount the display and it has the velcro on the back if I want to remove it for any reason.





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  • Awca12a
    Awca12a Member Posts: 288
    After spending 20yrs selling electrical equipment to the industry I learned more than I ever wanted to about surges and the effect of bad distribution system wiring upstream to a building or camper.  Progressive makes the best out there largely because of the LED diagnostics that not only informs you of the problem but will cut power if the voltage browns out to a level low enough to hurt your AC.  The hardwire install is the way to go for ease of use but remember that the surge is designed to sacrifice itself. If that happens, you need to hardware a bypass so you still get power, albeit unprotected, while you replace the surge.  
    F150 Pulling 2019 T@B400 BDL
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  • dhauf
    dhauf Member Posts: 199
    Awca12a said:
    After spending 20yrs selling electrical equipment to the industry I learned more than I ever wanted to about surges and the effect of bad distribution system wiring upstream to a building or camper.  Progressive makes the best out there largely because of the LED diagnostics that not only informs you of the problem but will cut power if the voltage browns out to a level low enough to hurt your AC.  The hardwire install is the way to go for ease of use but remember that the surge is designed to sacrifice itself. If that happens, you need to hardware a bypass so you still get power, albeit unprotected, while you replace the surge.  
    Good point!  I will throw some wire nuts in the electrical hatch just in case.  Worst case I can pull both wires out and wire nut them together to get power back.
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