sewer hose storage

aahnh said:

@homebodyatheart - apologies if I missed where you specified this - Did you use a 5" pvc pipe or a 6" ?  Getting my courage up to attempt this mod - hoping to get it done this week.  Thanks!

I actually used these: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAU762Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also used 5" stainless hose clamps from Home Depot.  I drilled a small hole in the middle of the stainless hose clamps. then went under and removed a couple of the belly pan screws on the side and in the middle and then put them back in with the hose clamp mounted to them.  At that point you can then put up the tube and connect your hose clamp around the tube.  Its a very easy modification, you might have to put two new self tappers in on the second tube into the frame if you choose to install two tubes.  I also used a couple of stainless bolts to clamp the two tubes together.  You can see it in the picture.  Hope this helps.

@dhauf - Thanks very much for the info & advice that's it an easy/do-able mod.  The only mod I've done so far is to add the spare tire mount to the trailer tongue (attached to the trailer crank post).  That was as simple as it gets & re-gaining that ground clearance made me feel much better.

@homebodyatheart - thanks for your help - I'm trying to keep things simple & inexpensive which is what drew me to your mod.  I'll need to tally up the costs of the pvc + cap fittings and compare to @dhauf 's Valterra product. They are both great options.  I really appreciate the input from you both!  It's good to have choices! 

rcuomo said:

After pricing 5" plastic pipe and related fittings I found the cost to be just a few dollars less than purchasing the setup that dhauf used. No real modifications to his install other than the need to relocate a few of the factory installed self tapping screws.  The inside clamp screw is 6" from the end of the frame.  Used stainless hardware, 4 clamps on the outside tube and 2 clamps on the inside tube.  Drilled 1/2" drainage holes  at each end, labeled the end caps.

Great job on the install!  It looks great, glad it worked out for you.  You’ll find having two tubes is extremely useful for additional storage instead of just having one.  I also agree with you in getting the valtera tubes, it was just easier for me personally and was trying to get them on before a trip.  I would suggest getting a couple of small locks for the tube ends.  I got these Master Lock Padlock, Solid Brass... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y8CQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was afraid with the bumps when traveling one of them might open and I loose my stuff so these work great in giving you peace of mind that everything will stay put.

jkjenn said:

I like your solution @dhauf. Any concerns about clearance?

For me so far I haven’t had any issues with clearance.  I do have a boondock edition T@b though, so it does sit a bit higher.  After mounting the tubes and the trailer level.  I still have about 13” from the bottom of the tube to the ground available.

rcuomo said:

I have a regular 320S and the clearance is impacted but not by much, about 1.5” less than the existing pipework. And since the tubes are thin wall plastic I figured there is some flexibility if the ground clearance gets tight. As for locks, I’m currently using stainless ¼” screws with wing nuts to secure the end caps. I measured the length with a 15’ sewer hose compressed with the adapter.  The length is perfect to apply enough force against the door the keep it closed. I purchased 50’ of the same water hose and it fits with plenty of room for my filter and pressure regulators. All told, I eliminated the need to carry to plastic storage bins in my truck bed. 😎

Perfect!  Always nice to consolidate, screws with wing nuts is a great idea also for securing the end caps.  Good to know this can work on a regular 320S also with a bit less clearance.  

Jenn- basically yes. First group of clamps are aligned with the last piece of black painted aluminum trim molding. I took out the outside screws and two middle screws.  Spacing not critical as the tubes are very light. And then I measured 6” from the end of the frame for the next clamps for the tube closer to the wheel. Probably would work slightly better at 5 ⅞” but the clamps give you a bit of leeway. One screw was already close to 6”, I had to relocate the other one. Since there isn’t any real structure under the cover for the inner tube I just used the two outer clamps. Once you bolt the tubes together it strengthens the whole assembly. If using only one tube you are good to go mounting at the rear. Let me know if you want more pics. 

Thanks @rcuomo !

Is that what you mean that the first set of clamps was aligned with the last piece of black aluminum trim molding?

(Yes, that is the Alde high altitude kit installed by repair at nüCamp.)

rcuomo said:

Jenn your undercarriage is different because their is no plastic fiberboard covering your frame so there appears to be no molding or factory installed screws.  It would require you to drill and use self tapping screws or other fasteners to hold the clamps.

Thanks @rc@rcuomo

FYI- ground clearance is ½” less on my 2018 320S. 7” to factory installed black pipe, 6 ½” to new install. 

Ballermaris...I was wondering about that too. Went to a steel fabricator for another project and asked that question.  He said a few small holes would be no problem at all..he called them miniature "lightening holes". i am doing it.