pro and cons winterizing compressed air or antifreeze

MiquelCamo · October 2019

I did the blow out (compressed air) method, disconnected the pump lines (empty filter, run pump), and added antifreeze to drain traps to winterize but after additional reading I decided my toilet valve needed some protection. I was able to prop the valve open with a 5 inch piece of wood, disconnect the toilet line and using a turkey baster, pump a couple of ounces in the line until pink stuff entered the toilet bowl. I guess I'm good to go until I read the next cautionary note from someone with more experience than myself.

TNOutback · October 2019

tabiphile said:

Why not do both? Winter damage happens when a small amount of water remains in the system. The compressed air approach removes most of it but a small amount of condensation may remain in the lines and find its way to a low spot. Running antifreeze through insures that everything is protected. Either method takes only a few minutes to accomplish. Doing both does not take that much longer. Don't forget the pump filter!

Winter camping. The idea and expense of fluid winterization, then cleaning and sanitizing the lines, camp, return, fluid winterize again, clean and sanitize, camp, return repeat rinse.

Cliffhanger · October 2019

I did essentially the same thing using my Camco antifreeze pump. Bought a $2.50 nylon fitting. The barb on one end connected to the camco 3/8" output tubing and other end had a 1/2" thread that screwed into the the toilet hose fitting. I used a jar of peanut butter (super chunk) to prop open the valve. It only took 2-3 pumps for antifreeze to show up. I too am trying to avoid full antifreeze, unless I were to be storing my T@B all winter.

Tundra57 · October 2019

Your not liking full antifreeze is that because of time to dewinterize or antifreeze cost?

MiquelCamo · October 2019

I already had an air compressor, I like to eliminate waste and save money where I can. With the exception of the toilet valve you can remove water from all known freeze areas with air pressure and removing lines from pump. Toilet valve and drains require less than a quart of antifreeze. I discovered you can put antifreeze in the valve without any special device or tools (turkey baster sealed easily to toilet line and took very little time). If you fill the system you have to rinse multiple times to remove antifreeze. All I have to do is hook up lines to the pump and be ready to go next spring.

Tundra57 · October 2019

I see. I am thinking for when I'm traveling from Florida up to Connecticut the quickest easiest and safest method. Don't feel like messing behind the toilet. Maybe if I put a two way valve with a short tube to allow me to blow a bit of antifreeze through the toilet valve it might work for me.

TabberJohn · October 2019

I'm with @webers3 and other airheads on this one.
As the bike pump+hose video demonstrates you can essentially create an expansion tank (blow and repeat). Or alternately hookup a 12v portable compressor to the hose to accomplish the same thing (more CFM).
Based on various forum tips my 320 S procedure is 1) run Shurflo pump until lines are pressurized, 2) open all drain valves starting with the Alde then hot, cold, and fresh water tank, 3) raise/lower hitch and rock the T@B, 4) close drain valves, 5) connect blow out plug to hose and clear each water outlet multiple times (sink, shower, toilet plus drain valves), 5) remove showerhead (Oxygenics Fury) and dangle the hose, 7) add just enough AF to feed the gates (sink trap, shower trap, toilet), 8) work the gates then close things up, 9) disconnect inlet hose from pump, remove filter assembly from pump, remove filter cap to check for debris then reassemble, 10) check drain valves again. Done.
I still have some pink left in the original gallon jug after 3 years. YMMV.
Guess I've been lucky with the Thetford, so this year I'll heed @Fergie 's warning and I'll apply @dCliffhanger 's suggestion for the toilet valve using @MiquelCamo 's turkey baster trick. Looks like a 5 minute job.

dCliffhanger · October 2019

I like the MiquelCamo Turkey Baster adaption! Simpler and even quicker! Hardly any setup at all. Unscrew and squirt. I had already purchased a baster to squirt up into the gate valves which "seems" to work fairly well by squirting and quickly shutting the valves. Though, I've also liked the sprayer idea too for possibly better coverage.

Fergie · October 2019

There have been quite a few comments on my posts on the problems with winterizing the Thetford toilet valve. Many of the solutions given involving disconnecting and re-connecting various hoses to get antifreeze in the valve or blowing the residual water out are clever and ingenious and in no way was I ever disparaging of them.

My problem is that I am in my 80's, have back problems and have a lot of trouble manuvering in cramped spaces like the T@B toilet! I can do it if I have to, but even though putting in antifreeze in the water tank in the fall and flushing it all out in the spring is a tedious job, I can do it without having to play Clark Kent and changing into my Superman outfit in a phone booth!

As with all things in life, one makes choices based on circumstances at the time!

dCliffhanger · October 2019

Fergie said:

I can do it without having to play Clark Kent and changing into my Superman outfit in a phone booth!

As with all things in life, one makes choices based on circumstances at the time!

I really hear you! In trying to run some wire under the bathroom earlier this summer I found myself contorted to the max trying to reach wire through the port behind the toilet. I was alone and not confident that I could undo that position! I did get unpretzelled but did end up with bruises on my arm and shoulder. So far though, I've found that the water line to the toilet is reachable by just straddling the toilet. At some point that may become less feasible. I'm about 10 years behind you and will keep (trying) to do what I can until I find I can't - or it hurts! Being adaptable lasts longer than flexible.

Fergie · October 2019

To dCliffhanger:

Welcome to the Old Geezer society!

Years ago, George Burns, who was then in his mid-90's. appeared on the Johnny Carson Tonight Show to plug a new book. As he strode out onto the stage with his famous cigar, Johnny said, "George, you're looking great!" Burns replied, "Aw, below the waist it's all makeup!"

I've searched for this clip, but can't find it. Saw it some time back.

Ratkity · October 2019

My tiny toy hauler had the winterizing kit installed, and then make sure the traps are filled. I also make sure the potty has some on the top because if you leave the seal dry, it tends to crack. I never do anything to the water tank (32 gal) except to drain it. The best way to drain it is to drive down the road with the water coming out of it after camping

One of the things I use while winter camping are the "GoAnywhere" bags. I also order extra Poo Powder (yes, that's what it's called). The bags fit in the potty and that tiny amount of powder takes up an amazing amount of fluid. I feel better having a little extra powder in it, but it's not necessary. Yes, you'll have a little RV antifreeze on the bottom of the bag from the winterized potty. The powder captures all odors. It's amazing.

ScottG · October 2019

Interesting discussion. @Tundra57, I think you hit on the major pros and cons in your original post. Ultimately, either method is going to involve more work on one end and less on the other. However, if I was going to be winterizing/dewinterizing frequently (particularly on the road) I think I'd stick with compressed air method as it involves less waste to deal with and allows the plumbing to be put back into service immediately when needed.

That said, having just winterized for the season, I may switch to the antifreeze method next year. It seems like it involves a lot less futzing to get it right. Since I usually sanitize when I dewinterize, I'm going to be thoroughly flushing the system in the spring anyway.

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