Why I won't run my fridge on LP whole driving

jkjenn · May 2015

jkjenn · May 2015

My dealer and others suggested that I run mine on LP because the 3 way drains the battery faster than the TV can charge. I am going to try a combination of only running on battery for short periods of time and adding ice when possible.

Nomad · May 2015

Don't have a good enough connect to watch the vid but never run mine on propane when on the road anyway.
Jenn - Ice seems like such a pain - On short trips (2-3hrs) I run it on battery and have never had a problem. For longer (6-8hrs) I alternate on/off and everything stays nice and cold. I think I've actually done a 6hr on battery with no problem but I started alternating because of your problem.
If I did have to use ice I think I'd just pull out my collapsible cooler and put stuff in there for the trip.

jkjenn · May 2015

PXLated said:

Don't have a good enough connect to watch the vid but never run mine on propane when on the road anyway.
Jenn - Ice seems like such a pain - On short trips (2-3hrs) I run it on battery and have never had a problem. For longer (6-8hrs) I alternate on/off and everything stays nice and cold. I think I've actually done a 6hr on battery with no problem but I started alternating because of your problem.
If I did have to use ice I think I'd just pull out my collapsible cooler and put stuff in there for the trip.

Thanks, I need K experiment a little more but what you describe sands better.

Rad · May 2015

I always ran the fridge on propane in my class C RV, except when fueling. Everybody I knew back then did. I have since changed my view of the practice and no longer drive with the fridge running on propane.

It was a very good video.

Kats · May 2015

Jenn, what about plugging in the night before you leave (shore power), setting the fridge to a really cold setting overnight, then the next morning filling it with your perishables and some freezer blocks and keeping it turned off while driving? Then you can run it for a few minutes on propane when you get to where you're going and get it cold again before shutting it off. Might work...

ChanW · May 2015

Jenn, there's a fairly simple mod described in the link below that adds thermostat control to the 12v mode of the Norcold 3-way.

Here: http://www.rialtainfo.com/model_info/modifications/refrigerator.htm

Once the fridge is up to temp, it would only come on now and then, and thus drawing less power form your TV's system.

If you're not comfortable with electrical work, you could get your local friendly geek to do it.

After having drained the Tab battery two or three times last trip, by forgetting to switch it off when parked, I've ordered the parts for this mod, and I'll let you know how it goes. (Luckily we have an isolator protecting the TV's battery.)

jkjenn · May 2015

ChanW said:

Jenn, there's a fairly simple mod described in the link below that adds thermostat control to the 12v mode of the Norcold 3-way.

Here: http://www.rialtainfo.com/model_info/modifications/refrigerator.htm

Once the fridge is up to temp, it would only come on now and then, and thus drawing less power form your TV's system.

If you're not comfortable with electrical work, you could get your local friendly geek to do it.

After having drained the Tab battery two or three times last trip, by forgetting to switch it off when parked, I've ordered the parts for this mod, and I'll let you know how it goes. (Luckily we have an isolator protecting the TV's battery.)

This looks promising and makes sense. Make sure you take picks or video if you do the mod. It will void your warranty, so that's my only hesitation.

ChanW · May 2015

I agree. We've had our Tab since 8/13. If the warranty is still valid, I'll wait.

leenscottfl · May 2015

This thread is about the wisdom of operating the fridge on LP while traveling. Seems that the main problem is the fire danger in case of an accident. It may be simplistic to point it out but I have to say that the real danger has nothing to do with the fridge but rather the fact that the gas valve must be left open. Turn the gas off when driving to eliminate the danger.

Rad · May 2015

leenscottfl said:

This thread is about the wisdom of operating the fridge on LP while traveling. Seems that the main problem is the fire danger in case of an accident. It may be simplistic to point it out but I have to say that the real danger has nothing to do with the fridge but rather the fact that the gas valve must be left open. Turn the gas off when driving to eliminate the danger.

That is the point of the video, gas turned off stops the flow in the 4 branch lines in a standard RV propane system.

leenscottfl · May 2015

I know but it doesn't hurt to state the obvious sometime.

Rad · May 2015

leenscottfl said:

I know but it doesn't hurt to state the obvious sometime.

True

vito · May 2015

So how do you all handle the challenge of keeping the refrigerator cold while traveling? As a soon-to-be T@b owner and new to RV's, I had never thought about this and just assumed that running the fridge on propane was the accepted and only real alternative.

Nomad · May 2015

I've been in moderate temps (other than a few 90 degree days) so haven't had a problem. Had the generator out and air on for the few hot ones. But I met a couple with a T@B where he'd added an exhaust fan inside the fridge enclosure to exhaust the heat and circulate the air. Probably should be a standard item from the factory.

ChanW · May 2015

Vito, while driving you can set the fridge on 12v, and as long as your TV's alternator is big enough for charging an RV (often the "towing package" will include a high output alternator), it should be fine.

It's recommended that you 'pre-cool' the fridge before starting to use it, for 12-24 hours, and try to put only cool things in there.

We also like to put frozen plastic juice bottles in to take up any slack.

bgualtieri · May 2015

for the last two trips (about two hours driving, electric hook up at destination) we just loaded frozen and cool things in the fridge like it was a cooler, including a couple frozen bottles, and the fridge was cold when we got to the campsite. That might not work for a real long drive, but the alternative of putting the stuff in a cooler is what we would have done when tent camping anyway.

leenscottfl · May 2015

We see our T@B as a hard sided tent. For many years we used our Igloo cooler. In keeping with our successful roots we continue using the cooler. The Norcold for us is a convience with only items needing cool but not cold while traveling. After setting up we "stage" items there for easy access. But since we still cook outside when possible the cooler that lives in the Jeep is just fine.

jkjenn · May 2015

My issue is that take a lot of long trips 6+ hours a day, sometimes multiple days of driving. I need a strategy that will work. I am going to attempt to alternate leaving it on for a while and tuning it off. I ordered a remote thermometer from Amazon and I will see how well that works for me.

ChanW · May 2015

Jenn, the 3-way draws 11 amps. (edit) I'd think a high output alternator could handle that.

If in doubt about the capacity of your alternator, you could find an alternator/generator rebuild shop, and ask them to look it over. If it's a problem, they could likely set you up with one with a higher capacity pretty easily. And the cost shouldn't be too bad.

bgualtieri · May 2015

That's a good point, Jenn. We'd like to go to Jeep rallies in places like Moab etc. too some time, so will be watching for good fridge solutions for the longer trips.

jkjenn · May 2015

ChanW said:

Jenn, the 3-way draws 11 amps. (edit) I'd think a high output alternator could handle that.

If in doubt about the capacity of your alternator, you could find an alternator/generator rebuild shop, and ask them to look it over. If it's a problem, they could likely set you up with one with a higher capacity pretty easily. And the cost shouldn't be too bad.

Marvin at the factory seemed to think it drew more than that. The other possible solution might be to find a way to mount my little 10watt trickle charger to the battery box cover, flat. The panel has slots on the sides, so you could run a strap through them.

Nomad · May 2015

Jenn - "often the "towing package" will include a high output alternator" - You mentioned you installed your hitch yourself. This could be the difference in your experience and mine. I have the factory package and don't have the problems you've had.

ChanW · May 2015

10 watts is only @ .830 amps at 12V. That wouldn't do much for the fridge.

That's interesting to know, from Marvin. I thought the Norcold specs said 11A. I'll have to measure it.

Our Tacoma, which has the standard, not high output, alternator, puts out between 60 and 90 amps, from what I've been able to gather. A higher output alternator would put out at least 120A.

Verna · May 2015

ChanW said:

10 watts is only @ .830 amps at 12V. That wouldn't do much for the fridge.

That's interesting to know, from Marvin. I thought he Norcold specs said 11A. I'll have to measure it.

Our Tacoma, which has the standard, not high output, alternator, puts out between 60 and 90 amps, from what I've been able to gather. A higher output alternator would put out at least 120A.

So, Chan, on my 2015 Tacoma with the towing package with the included transmission and oil coolers, how do I tell if I have the high output alternator? If it wasn't raining so hard, I'd go out to the truck now and get the window sticker that came with it.

ChanW · May 2015

Verna,that's the question, isn't it?

If it's the "factory" tow package, you'd think you could get the info from the dealer, or maybe from the service department (or the parts dept?). Our Tacoma manual says "5A max" for alternator specs, but the cover on its accessory 12v outlet says max 10A. Big help.

From what I've read, it seems that different 'tow packages' include different accessories, or grade levels of parts. And you hope the dealer used the specified Toyota parts for yours.

I've read in the Tacoma forums that the 'tow package' alternator for the 6cyl Tacoma in the past has been 120-160A.

But heck, the Tab is tiny, and its needs are minimal, when you compare it to what the 'big rigs' need. You'd think any 'tow package' would at least cover a Tab's requirements.

IOW, I don't know, except to ask the dealer. Or, it might say right on the alternator -- wouldn't that be handy...

I'd be interested to know, if you find out.

jkjenn · May 2015

PXLated said:

Jenn - "often the "towing package" will include a high output alternator" - You mentioned you installed your hitch yourself. This could be the difference in your experience and mine. I have the factory package and don't have the problems you've had.

That could be it. I had the dealer install a transmission cooler when I first bought my Jeep. If I remember correctly, I measured around 11.83 from the 7 pin connector.

mawebb · May 2015

I am not so sure it's the alternator that is creating the limitation, but more the guage of the charge wire on the TV. Is the guage is too small, the will be a significant voltage drop, which will prevent the fridge from attaining peak efficiency on 12 volt. You want to see about 12.4 volts, up to 13.5 at the fridge when the TV is running. jkjenn saw 11.83 which is low. Probably the reason why the battery depletes while running the fridge on 12 volts while towing. The battery will be supplying the current to the fridge as it will be at a hight voltage than 11.83. You need above 12.4 to charge or maintain the battery.

ChanW · May 2015

11.83v at the 7-pin could indicate a couple other things you could look into, Jenn.

Is the 12v supply wire, that runs from your TV battery to the 7-pin, large enough (the wire gauge should be 10 or 8 ga.)? Or corroded connections could also be a culprit.

Was the Tab connected to the 7-pin when the voltage was measured?

Your alternator might have trouble keeping up, and could indicate a voltage drop like that, if your Tab battery is discharged (it might draw 10-15A), and you're trying to run the fridge (which might draw 11A more), and your jeep is only idling...

But again, like Martin says, a heavier gauge charging wire (and a good ground, also heavy gauge) would probably prevent that voltage drop in a normally operating charging system.

You might simply have an insufficient ground. That's a pretty common fault.

Nomad · May 2015

Jenn...Using the little cigarette socket battery monitor, here's what I got this morning...

Before Hooking Up - Alde/Fridge Off = 13.3 - Fridge on Battery = 12.0
Hooked Up, TV Idling - Alde/Fridge Off = 13.5 - Fridge on Battery = 12.7
After 2hours of driving with fridge on battery, TV idling = 13.0
Unhooked, solar hooked up (overcast), fridge on propane = 13.1

jkjenn · May 2015

Thanks, PX. I will try a similar test. From what the dealer said, they ran either an 8 or 10 gauge wire from the TV. It really all might go back to the alternator. I don't think the winch drains power unless it is on.

Why I won't run my fridge on LP whole driving

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