Scary newbie unhitching mistake

jules2go · September 2020

Recently I was getting my Tab settled into a new campsite right next to a creek and had a really scary thing happen. I'm still not sure how it happened, but here is the order of events as I recall. I had gotten it level on one leggo leveler block on the passenger side (so was pretty level to start with) and the other wheel had the chock blocks on both sides of the tire (no wheel chocks on the other wheel that was on the leveling block). I placed my wood blocks under the tongue jack and cranked the post down -- no foot on the end of the post, another mistake -- and proceeded to unhitch. I pulled the truck forward (unhooked from camper). I went back to the tongue jack to start the front to back leveling and suddenly it rolled forward down off the wood blocks and the post scraped across the ground -- and thankfully it didn't move anymore. It had rolled down off the leveling block and the wheel chocks on the other wheel had not held it in place.

I was TERRIFIED for different reasons -- for one, omg what if it had rolled the other way and ended up in the creek?!! But also did I damage the post or anything else? How was I going to get it back up onto the blocks? I was too scared to do anything, having suddenly developed minus zero confidence. So I went to my neighbor who had a trailer too and he was so nice and helped me get it all back in order. He highly suggested I put wheel chocks on BOTH tires (how do you do that if it's up on leveling blocks?). He couldn't quite figure out what I done wrong. I think I didn't kick the wheel chocks in nice and tight, but rather had just put them up against the tire.

I am now so ridiculously nervous every time I go to unhitch. I did buy a foot for the post to give it more support, and I now kick the chocks in tighter.

Feedback will be greatly appreciated! Sorry for such a long post, but I was trying to describe what happened.

jkjenn · September 2020

How scary for you!

One thing I like about the Andersen leveler is the fact that it uses a chock. I recently only chocked one tire on fairly level ground and it rolled on me, too, but just a couple of feet and it was in my flat yard, so it was not going far.

See the source image

Verna · September 2020

@jules2go, I’m so glad you went for help. Two heads are better than one.

I have two sets of chocks, with a rope holding each pair together. The rope is for two reasons—to keep them tight enough to stay with the tire, and also to lessen the chances of losing them.

I always chock both wheels, even if one is on leveling blocks. With the chocks roped together, they stay together.

I keep the foot on my tongue jack as it doesn’t add much length to the jack and I don’t like the wheel. The foot allows more surface on the ground, and the jack pole should not bend.

Practice is going to help you become more confident. Search for the “Ready Set Go” document that is a check list of the order to do “things” while setting up. It will give you confidence as it will help you make sure all your tasks are completed.

Lastly, have fun! You can do it!

jules2go · September 2020

Thank you guys!! At my house I have what I think is maybe not a good situation. My driveway is on a sideways slant and the only way to get it level is to put it on about 7 inches of levelers... So there is not a way that I can see to put chocks on that wheel. What do you think?

Verna · September 2020

I use “Legos” leveling blocks and I can still put the chocks around the tires.

Verna · September 2020

You might look at the BAL Leveler. It is a leveler and a chock. Check Amazon.

jules2go · September 2020

Verna, I have those Lego blocks too. My wheel chocks are too small maybe. I don't understand how I would get them to stay put.

Verna · September 2020

@jules2go, Harbor Freight has black rubber wheel chocks that do not slide. I have a set of those that I used for my 400. I still tied each pair together so they stayed together and I didn’t lose them. They cost more than the common yellow or red plastic wheel chocks.

Sharon_is_SAM · September 2020

@jules2go - I think Verna’s suggestion for the Bal leveler (at least for home use) is a good one. The other option is the Anderson. Once you roll up on or roll backwards onto the Anderson, you then use the included chock to brace the other side of the wheel.

jules2go · September 2020

@Verna -- my chocks are those little red Valterra plastic ones. I think I need an upgrade.
@Sharon_is_SAM -- I just looked up that Bal leveler and wonder if it requires a lot of arm strength (which I don't have). The Anderson system is not going to give me enough height in my driveway. Maybe the Bal will.

Do you guys think it's bad to have it 7 inches high on levels in my driveway?

Sharon_is_SAM · September 2020

As long as water is not pooling on it, I do not think that it needs to be stored completely level, so maybe limit the amount of levelers used?

Verna · September 2020

@jules2go, I had a T@B owner friend stay on my property this past week. I watched her wrestle with the short ratcheting wrench that comes with the BAL leveler. I got an 18” breaker bar ($9.99 at Harbor Freight) and a 3/4” socket ( she bought one at Lowe’s for just under $5) out of the barn to help her.

By using the longer breaker bar and socket, it was twice as easy to move the BAL up and down. Plus spraying the threaded rod with silicone spray helped, also.

You can use the BAL if you use a longer breaker bar and always keep the threaded rod lubricated.

Buy the parts I’ve listed if you buy a BAL and I’ll help you learn to use it.

VictoriaP · September 2020

jules2go said:

@Verna -- my chocks are those little red Valterra plastic ones. I think I need an upgrade.
@Sharon_is_SAM -- I just looked up that Bal leveler and wonder if it requires a lot of arm strength (which I don't have). The Anderson system is not going to give me enough height in my driveway. Maybe the Bal will.

Do you guys think it's bad to have it 7 inches high on levels in my driveway?

@jules2go I’m middle aged, disabled with a fatiguing autoimmune condition, and I can handle the BAL with a longer ratchet similar to what Verna suggests. Pretty sure most people can, though those of us less physically able may have to do it in stages, a few minutes at a time when dealing with a lot of height. However, I believe it maxes out at 6” in height. I find it a bit heavy, bulky, and awkward. But it works fairly well if you keep the screw lubricated.

Personally? If I were dealing with 7” in height, I probably wouldn’t be leveling to precool the fridge, I’d toss ice packs in there and call it good enough. And you don’t have to be completely level for storage, as Sharon said, I’d probably level it just enough to load up or unload, maybe 3-4”.

ChrisFix · September 2020

+1 on the Harbor Freight wheel chocks. They are very high quality - heavy solid rubber and very reasonably priced. $5 a piece. They put those cheap hollow plastic chocks to shame!
https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2020/08/96479-91695597/

Dalehelman · September 2020

As a little extra insurance you can leave one or both safety chains connected until you are sure the trailer is stable. Just don’t forget to unhook before you drive away. By all means chock both wheels front and back. If you are still concerned. Hold on to the brake away cable and pull it if things get crazy.

Deb55 · September 2020

I recommend the BAL leveler. I was inside our camper once when it rolled off the Lego blocks, and it was a bit nerve-wracking! We were only in our driveway, so no harm done, but it could've been at a river-side campground!

BrianZ · September 2020

I keep a couple of pieces of 2x8 or 2x10 treated lumber to go under the Anderson leveler if needed. Just make sure it's long enough. A rubber pad keeps it from slipping on the wood.

jkjenn · September 2020

I used a BAL leveler for 4 years. It really let's you dial in your level. However, it is bulky and heavy. I decided to try the Anderson leveler and I love it. Combined with a Levelmate Pro, it is easy and quick to level as a solo traveler.

Pro tip, you want to pull forward onto the Anderson, not back up onto it. If you back up on it will be putting weight forward on the hitch making it more difficult to hitch unhitch.

ChrisFix · September 2020

jkjenn said:

I used a BAL leveler for 4 years. It really let's you dial in your level. However, it is bulky and heavy. I decided to try the Anderson leveler and I love it. Combined with a Levelmate Pro, it is easy and quick to level as a solo traveler.

Pro tip, you want to pull forward onto the Anderson, not back up onto it. If you back up on it will be putting weight forward on the hitch making it more difficult to hitch unhitch.

Agree 100% with that. The Levelmate Pro and Andersen Leveler - driven on to, not backed on to, is a hard combo to beat.
Also agree with those saying to carry a couple of 2X lumber the right length (I use 2X6) to supplement the Andersen, as sometimes you'll need it for a firmer foundation, and sometimes for a bit of additional leveling height.

jules2go · September 2020

ChrisFix said:

+1 on the Harbor Freight wheel chocks. They are very high quality - heavy solid rubber and very reasonably priced. $5 a piece. They put those cheap hollow plastic chocks to shame!
https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2020/08/96479-91695597/

Chris I just went to Auto Zone this afternoon and bought heavy duty rubber ones like the one in you link. I paid too much for them I'm sure but I do feel more confident having them.

Verna · September 2020

@jules2go, price is acceptable when your peace of mind is at ease. We’ll get you comfortable.

jules2go · September 2020

@Verna than you for offering to help with the BAL leveler.

Finchy · September 2020

If ever a doubt, always chock both wheels. it sounds like it was a cheap lesson and it is appropriate to be nervous when dealing with unhitching and hitching of the T@B(or any RV for that matter) as it is serious business! Do the steps in order, do them slowly, do them thoroughly...get into good habits and the fear and nervousness will go away. The vigilance never should. This from a person who just put a dent in my T@B while backing into a parking space...lol. Advice is for the giver.

TresK3 · September 2020

Since it sounds like your driveway is the current concern (7" does seem like a lot of slope, across the width of a trailer) you might consider making a stay-at-home "ramp" to drive up on.

I'm envisioning three or four 2X8's of increasing length. Cut (or have them cut) at a 45o bevel so that when stacked up the bevels form a ramp on the front and back (you'll have to do a little figuring to get the right lengths). Next, screw the bottom and second-to-bottom pieces together, then screw on the third, and finally the top piece. Use a lot of long screws, and pre-drill pilot holes for them. You'll want to make the whole thing long enough to put your chocks on the top piece, once the trailer is up there.

This might be a bit heavy, but you will always know how much to level - just throw it down and pull up onto it.

jules2go · September 2020

@TresK3 Thanks for your suggestion, well taken. Yesterday I spent an enormous amount of time trying to get it level on a new little spot on my driveway, that I thought appeared to be a hair more level than the rest. All the while thinking I need to have something done to the surface to make a section more level. Might need to have it repaved $$$, or something as you suggested.

rcarlson1957 · September 2020

Like the Andersen leveler and two chocks. Use the LevelMate Pro system to determine which side needs raising (if any) then pull forward on the Andersen leveler till tells me level. I always chock both wheels.

jules2go · September 2020

@rcarlson1957 thank you for commenting. I believe the Andersen system doesn't give the height needed when it's parked on my slanted driveway if I recall correctly from info on a video I watched.

dsfdogs · September 2020

@jules2go I use the Tri-Lynx orange lego type leveling pads (they are very versatile and can also be used under the jack post or stabilizers or tow vehicle tires). I also bought the wheel stop/chocks for them. They connect with the pads. At camp, I prefer to level by pulling forward onto the pad so will set up the chock in front so I don't drive too far and right off the pad! (You could put it in back if you are backing onto it). Then I either put the other orange chock in so both front/back of the tire on the leveling pad(s) is chocked or use one of those heavy duty black chocks like you just bought. (I also chock front/back of the other tire on the ground). I tried the Bal leveler and didn't care for it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UODGIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PNWtabber · September 2020

Scary tale, indeed. I was looking into BAL levelers, but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. This thread has me considering their tire chock though. Anyone use this?
https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28020-Single-Axle-Chock/dp/B001UGPEJA

jimrj · September 2020

I’ve used it and it works well. My DW likes it because it reduces the last bit of movement after we deploy the four-corner stabilizers. It makes the trailer very stable.

nhmike · October 2020

Sorry I missed your post til now. Thanks for sharing your 'episode'. Reminds me to pay attention to details. Glad things worked out. Awesome support from the forum.

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