A different hitch for the 320 or 400?

MarkAl · May 2021

We've had our 2021 since June and over time I've either learned what not to do to make hitching or unhitching easy or the hitch has significantly loosened up. I now make sure I'm level and not far off from the trailer centerline and have the TV at the front of the hitch when connecting/disconnecting. BUT that leaves some situations where I could camp and either don't try or spend a lot of time improving it. SO I recently saw a friends dump trailer with a 2 inch ball hitch that had the grabbing portion come from the side that to me looked as if it would handle my difficult situations. I don't want to go to a pintle hook for the vibration. This hitch looked like it might bolt on where our current one does. Thoughts from the knowledgable?

Denny16 · May 2021

Should work, European hitches are a side grip style, and they are used in the TaBs on the other side of the pond. You could also go with an off road type articulated hitch, it just pulls out off the receiver or uses a pin to release the trailer.
cheers

Tabaz · May 2021

Here is a link to articulating hitches:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/119267#Comment_119267

MarkAl · May 2021

I don't want to go with the articulated style as it requires a large amount of work and some $ for both ends. I think the style I saw was a collar type as it seemed to address the problems with alignment that ours may have. These probably come with their own set of issues however. I believe Curt makes one.

MuttonChops · May 2021

@MarkAl ; Any chance you could post an image or link to the style of coupler being considered.

However, I expect as you get more experience with the standard Yoke-Style coupler and it gets more worn in you'll find connecting/etc gets easy.

MarkAl · May 2021

This is one that requires welding and I'm not sure the A-Frame is the correct angle but at this point I'm just gathering information. The clamp seems much more secure and should allow more angles to hitch than the current blind clamp. e-Trailer, Curt and others have them one type may be drillable.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/vs/l5g6ggrv7wei.jpg

Denny16 · May 2021

Those are used on cargo, utility and boat trailers, I have not seen one used on a RV. You need to check the weight capacity this hitch can handle. The European version for RVs has teflon pads that lock in from both sides, eliminating any slack movement in the ball to socket connection. It uses a top mount Ed locking lever, that can be locked down to discourage theft.
cheers

MarkAl · May 2021

From 5,000 up to 12,500. From what I've seen they attach more simply and latching is readily verified. I am wondering why they aren't used more on RV trailers - I'm not one for tradition.

Denny16 · May 2021

Mark, I do not think it is a tradition issue, more likely a cost issue, or product availability issue. The hitch you referenced is more expensive to manufacture. Yes, it is also very secure. A hitch has to deal with both a static load strain and a dynamic load when underway. I just wished we used the same type of hitch as they do in Europe, the first TaBs had this hitch from the UK. The current TaB trailer frames are made by a contract manufacturer for nüCamp, they get them ready built, axle, and hitch all ready installed, unlike Kenskill trailers, which made their own frames formthe trardrop trailers they made in the 1950-60s.
cheers

MarkAl · May 2021

I think our hitch is pretty reliable and unlikely to need changing for quite awhile. Now that I understand the limitations and work arounds it's okay. BUT the next time I could have quickly jacked the trailer into a spot without worrying about how lined up I am so to easily unhook I'll think about changing.

A different hitch for the 320 or 400?

Comments

Categories