Grease seal purchase and spindle nut size?

khenke
khenke Member Posts: 16
in Service/Maintenance & Recall Notices
Greetings,
'Tis the time to complete the first wheel bearing repacking on my 2021 320 Boondock. In a effort to have everything I need to complete the task, where have folks purchased the grease seals?  Have seals been located at local auto parts stores? Or online? Additionally, anyone recall what size the spindle nut is? I might just go ahead and purchase a spindle nut socket for this annual undertaking. Also, did the seal come out relatively easy or is a grease seal remover necessary?  
Cheers,
Ken
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Comments

  • ScottG
    ScottG Administrator Posts: 5,655
    There's lots of good info in this discussion, and a parts list and other resources here.

    The castle nut requires a 1-1/2" socket. I got my seals direct from Dexter, but I think etrailer has an alternative as well. I've heard the bearings themselves can be usually found at local stores, but I'm not sure about the seals. I used a seal puller on mine (they are cheap) but if you are careful you should be able to get the seal out with any prying implement. Either way, the seal will be trashed.
    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
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  • tabiphile
    tabiphile Member Posts: 470
    If you have the removal tool, use it. If you don't just pry them out with whatever you have handy. As @ScottG notes, they will be toast regardless. You will be able to get bearings, seals etc. at a trailer shop or an auto parts store. 
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  • khenke
    khenke Member Posts: 16
    ScottG said:
    There's lots of good info in this discussion, and a parts list and other resources here.

    The castle nut requires a 1-1/2" socket. I got my seals direct from Dexter, but I think etrailer has an alternative as well. I've heard the bearings themselves can be usually found at local stores, but I'm not sure about the seals. I used a seal puller on mine (they are cheap) but if you are careful you should be able to get the seal out with any prying implement. Either way, the seal will be trashed.
    Thanks, Scott. Yea, I am old school regarding seals. I always replace them when repacking. 
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  • khenke
    khenke Member Posts: 16
    tabiphile said:
    If you have the removal tool, use it. If you don't just pry them out with whatever you have handy. As @ScottG notes, they will be toast regardless. You will be able to get bearings, seals etc. at a trailer shop or an auto parts store. 
    Thanks and good to know I would have a reasonable chance at finding the seals at a local parts store. Wow, been 20 years since I repacked bearings. Hard to believe they are still around, even for trailers! Cheers
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  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Member Posts: 1,940
    @khenke unless your trailer is many years old or you have a known bad (leaking) seal consider using the Dexter Axle grease fitting for your annual / 12,000 mile grease change.

    That is what Dexter designed them for.  These are not 'bearing buddies' of years past, they are a well designed grease distribution system for both the inside and outside bearings.

    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures:  58   Nights:  405  Towing Miles 50,180
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  • tabiphile
    tabiphile Member Posts: 470
    Best not to lose sight of the fact that the brakes should be inspected at roughly the same service interval as the bearings require re-packing. To inspect and service the brakes, the brake hubs must be removed. At the same time that the hubs are off and the bearings are repacked, the spindles should be inspected for wear. That also cannot be done removing the hubs. If those parts are off the axle, the grease fittings lose their purpose.
    You could do the brake service and spindle inspection and opt to repack the bearings using the Zerk/Alemite fittings after the hubs are reinstalled and the spindle nut is retorqued. You could. But, it seems like a questionable choice. Aside from possibly saving the rear seal replacement the risk of introducing dirt into the bearings should eliminate that as a consideration.
    And, possibly an alternative consideration, the need to disassemble and inspect should be greater with a newer axle. The possibility of an assembly error or infant mortality due to parts or improper assembly is greater in a new unit than one that has been properly serviced. Better to catch problems before the spindles are damaged. Brakes, hubs, bearings, seals, these are all easily and affordably replaceable. Spindles are not.
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  • khenke
    khenke Member Posts: 16
    tabiphile said:
    Best not to lose sight of the fact that the brakes should be inspected at roughly the same service interval as the bearings require re-packing. To inspect and service the brakes, the brake hubs must be removed. At the same time that the hubs are off and the bearings are repacked, the spindles should be inspected for wear. That also cannot be done removing the hubs. If those parts are off the axle, the grease fittings lose their purpose.
    You could do the brake service and spindle inspection and opt to repack the bearings using the Zerk/Alemite fittings after the hubs are reinstalled and the spindle nut is retorqued. You could. But, it seems like a questionable choice. Aside from possibly saving the rear seal replacement the risk of introducing dirt into the bearings should eliminate that as a consideration.
    And, possibly an alternative consideration, the need to disassemble and inspect should be greater with a newer axle. The possibility of an assembly error or infant mortality due to parts or improper assembly is greater in a new unit than one that has been properly serviced. Better to catch problems before the spindles are damaged. Brakes, hubs, bearings, seals, these are all easily and affordably replaceable. Spindles are not.
    Yes, I agree with your comments. For the first lube event, I definitely want to see all the functioning parts of the wheel and hub. If, down the road, I feel like that may be unnecessary every year (depending on mileage), I will at the very least, lube via the zerk.  Thanks again for thorough explanation on the matter! Cheers
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  • N7SHG_Ham
    N7SHG_Ham Member Posts: 1,261
    I would probably try to source seals prior to tearing apart, while you might find them at an auto parts store (and I have), last time it took 2-3 stores to get a pair of seals. They are a double lip seal that is supposed to retain the grease better if/when you use a grease gun on the zerk fitting.
    2019 T@B 400 Boondock Lite
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  • jimcenname
    jimcenname Member Posts: 345
    @MuttonChops I used the grease fitting method in year 1 and year 2, though I did pull the brake drum on one wheel in year 2 to check the brake linings, magnet and spindle. Dexter has a great video on how to do it and like you said, that's how they designed it. BTW, local RV shop said they replace the whole brake assembly, as a single unit, including linings, springs, magnets for just a little more than new linings, and it's easier, four bolts. My brakes and magnets are fine though. 

    2019 T@B400
    TV: 2017 Nissan Frontier SV 4X4
    Southern California
    Full-timer since 2019
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