outdoor shower head replacement options

The quick disconnect type of setup is what I plan to replace the fixed hose with in our TaB.  I think this is the best way to go.  You can even get quick disconnects that have a built in ball valve, so when the hose is disconnected, water will not come out, even if the water tap valves are on.

I have discovered the same thing, by accident with the quick release fittings on my garden hose pipes, which do not have the built in valve on either end.  You have to be smarter than the equipment… 
 Cheers 

You can increase the flow by drilling out the orifice on the current shower head.  Take it apart and you'll see what I mean.  I just replaced my stiff white hose with a more flexible metal cased RV hose, as shown above.  You need to remove the box to attach it.  Once the box is off adding a quick disconnect is pretty easy.  For us just having the longer more flexible hose has addressed our issues.  With the quick disconnect you can use a much longer coiled hose that you can store elsewhere.

Is there a reason you chose such a long hose for the outside shower??

What he said...

I bought the exact pieces from your upper link, from Amazon... the hose does not attached to the connector - do I need another piece???

@ShelleyA sorry for the late reply. Been traveling through Canada and now Alaska with little to no service.

Also have to apologize for the bad link. The first three items are what I purchased, but the last CPC discount link was not. I had a lot of CPC fitting from my homebrew days and used what’s shown in the pictures. The Amazon CPC link was only to show the brand and did not include both the male and female connectors or the exact versions needed. I should have been more specific. I’m glad you were able to work it out to your satisfaction, but if you’re still interested I’ll look for links to the CPC fittings that will work. 

Last year, I had to replace my entire outdoor box and found the exact non-locking white ITC Fontana model on Amazon.

Like I mentioned earlier, I bought an assorted used lot size batch of these disconnects on eBay. Probably 30 of them, so I had several choices to pick from when putting mine together. The links below to Zoro seem to be a good source, but I can’t be certain that they are exactly what I used. Maybe giving them a call could verify it. They might even suggest a better configuration since I was just working with what I had. The plastic pipe to barb fitting that I used inside probably came from Home Depot, but again, it was something I had in my stash of stuff from homebrewing. Hope that helps, but if it just raises more questions, let me know.

Carefully remove the sealant with a plastic scrapper so as not to mar the surface and remove the screws.  Reseal after re-installation.

Thanks for the tips!  Is there a recommended or preferred sealant to use when I reinstall the unit?

Thanks for the recommendation.