Alternatives to Autowbrake?

Explorers2 · July 18

So the Autowbrake that was installed on my 2018 320S I don’t love. It’s pretty jerky while driving, and I can’t tell how well it really works. Do folks have alternatives to the brakes or the controller?

MuttonChops · July 19

As my tow vehicle [TV] has a factory (electric) Trailer Brake Controller [TBC] I cannot recommend a specific brand/model aftermarket controller.

That said, while shopping/deciding consider:

- A - 2022 Outback does not have a TBC connector under the dash. So a 'wired' TBC will require
someone accessing and splicing into the wiring under the dash {above the driver pedals}.

- B - There are wired and wireless TBC on the market. If you plan a lot of towing a wired maybe
more reliable. But if you're doing more typical weekend here/there trips than the wireless
should be fine.

- C - Most wireless are similar to your present AutowBrake in that the main components mount
on the trailer and a remote display/controller is placed in the TV cabin using a 12VDC outlet
for power.

Expect there is some different between brands on how well the 'black box' electronics and
sensors function. Reading owner usage and installation reviews could be helpful.

- D - Are your issues common with other AutowBrake users? Could your 'comfort' level be a
learnig curve issue or something in your set-up that is not the TBC ?

Side Note:
In addition to solving the TBC issue. If you want a standard 7-pin installation additional effort
will be required to run a 12VDC wire from the TV battery to the 7-pin. And a 4-pin to 7-pin
conversion might be required. All depends on what modifications are already done on the
Outback and which TBC you decide to purchase.

Grumpy_G · July 19

Assuming you get a proper 7 pin trailer connection installed (as @MuttonChops explained) I can recommend the Redarc Tow-pro Liberty. The unit can be installed anywhere under the dash and out of view, and only requires a small space for the control knob.

Gomers2 · July 19

I assume you are aware it has 3 levels of power? For that trailer set on lowest level. If you get up to speed then coast with the car and use the remote to activate the trailer brakes, that should answer your question as to how much it's working. (Also the trailer brakes can be adjusted, which they may need it has never been done. It's not real difficult.)

Sharon_is_SAM · July 19

I recommend a good proportional brake controller like Techonsha Prodigy P3.

Explorers2 · July 19

Thank you for these comments. Some research is in order.

Explorers2 · July 21

Ok I’ve learned a bunch and I have some questions. It seems like the AB system is good so I probably am just not using it correctly.

I have it set to the correct strength at
the unit on the camper (1 out of 3), and it was properly calibrated when we got the camper. I see it has proportional braking. My issue is that when I apply the brake pedal, the camper brake kind of jerks the car, so it’s not all that smooth.

The documentation I have doesn’t say much about how the key fob works. Can someone describe how you use the fob, what each button does, etc..?

Also I see it is wired to the camper battery for operation and backup power. I recently changed to a LiPo, so do I need any reset or calibration?

MuttonChops · July 21

There is another, non-TBC, source of the trailer jerking the tow vehicle; it is Tow Bar in Hitch Receiver play.

Does your vehicle have a Hitch Tightener installed ?

Several brands are available, one Amazon example:

MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer

Explorers2 · July 22

I do not have that and it looks like a good idea to add. But the brake jerk is from the brake being actuated.

Sharon_is_SAM · July 22

From AI

AI Overview

If you're experiencing jerking while towing a trailer with an autowbrake system, there are several potential causes to investigate:

Brake Controller Settings:
- Gain Setting Too High: If the gain setting on your brake controller is too high, the trailer brakes may be applying too forcefully, causing a jerking sensation, especially during initial braking or at lower speeds.
- Improper Sensitivity: Some controllers have a sensitivity setting that determines how aggressively the brakes are applied relative to the tow vehicle's braking. An excessively high sensitivity could lead to sudden braking action from the trailer, according to tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com.
- Proportional vs. Time-Delayed: If you have a time-delayed controller, the delay and intensity may not be ideal for certain situations, leading to jerky braking compared to a proportional controller that senses deceleration and applies brakes more smoothly.
Trailer Brake Issues:
- Worn or Improperly Adjusted Brakes: Worn brake shoes or drums, or brakes that are adjusted too tightly or loosely, can lead to uneven or abrupt braking, according to Centreville Trailer Parts.
- Contamination or Damage: Grease on the brake shoes or drums, warped drums, or faulty brake shoes or springs can cause grabbing or uneven braking.
- Magnet Issues: Issues with the trailer brake magnets, such as being worn or contaminated, can affect braking performance.
- Wheel Bearing Issues: Bad wheel bearings can cause the wheel and drum to lean, leading to brake drag and jerking.
Wiring and Electrical Problems:
- Corroded Connections: Corrosion in the wiring connectors (e.g., the 7-way plug) can disrupt the electrical signal to the trailer brakes, causing erratic behavior.
- Damaged Wiring: Frayed, pinched, or damaged wires can lead to intermittent brake activation or loss of signal.
- Bad Ground Connection: A poor ground connection to the trailer brakes or the brake controller can also cause braking problems.
Hitch and Trailer Weight Distribution:
- Tongue Weight: Improper trailer tongue weight can contribute to jerky towing.
- Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) Issues: If you're using a WDH, ensuring it's properly set up is important to prevent jerking.
- Play in the Hitch: Worn or loose components in the hitch can lead to movement and jerking.

Troubleshooting Steps:

Check Brake Controller Settings:
- Reduce the Gain Setting: Start by gradually reducing the gain setting on your brake controller and testing the braking response.
- Adjust Sensitivity: If your controller has a sensitivity setting, experiment with lowering it.
- Ensure Correct Controller Type: If you are frequently towing heavy loads, a proportional brake controller is generally recommended over a time-delayed one for smoother braking, according to Hayes Towing Electronics.
Inspect Trailer Brakes:
- Check Adjustment: Verify that the trailer brakes are properly adjusted. Worn brake shoes or drums will need replacement.
- Look for Contamination: Inspect the brake shoes and drums for any signs of grease or oil and clean or replace as needed.
- Examine Magnet Condition: Inspect the magnets for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
- Test Brakes: Perform a brake test by driving slowly and using the manual override on your controller. Check for smooth and consistent braking action.
Inspect Wiring and Connections:
- Clean Connectors: Clean the trailer's 7-way connector and the vehicle's socket to remove corrosion or debris.
- Examine Wiring: Check the wiring on both the vehicle and trailer for any signs of damage or loose connections.
- Verify Ground Connections: Ensure a solid ground connection for both the brake controller and the trailer brakes.
Evaluate Hitch and Weight Distribution:
- Check Tongue Weight: Ensure your trailer's tongue weight is within the recommended range.
- Inspect WDH: If using a WDH, make sure it is set up correctly.
- Examine Hitch for Play: Check for any looseness or wear in the hitch components.
Professional Inspection: If you're unable to diagnose and resolve the issue yourself, it's best to have a qualified mechanic or RV service center inspect your brake system and hitch for potential problems.

Gomers2 · July 22

Wow that is an exhaustive list of possible causes and solutions! It reads like the disclaimer from a pharmaceutical ad :-). I think @MuttonChops is on the right track in that the controller is probably fine but maybe you are sensing jerking due to hitch slack, or the trailer brakes need to be adjusted tighter or looser to keep them from grabbing if that is actually happening. (That is accomplished by spinning a little thing called a star nut which is the inside of the brake assembly but accessible from underneath the trailer. You need a floor jack and jack stands to do this ideally, but it's not technically difficult; there are a lot of videos on YouTube.) You do not need to be using the AuTowBrake key fob on a regular basis. You use it to set the levels with the up and down arrows. However there is no confirmation from the fob, you need to be looking at the green light on the unit that is on the trailer. Alternatively just use the button on the controller next to the green light and set it to level one. It is possible that if you've been pushing the fob buttons you may have inadvertently switched it to a higher level. The other button on the fob engages the brakes remotely, IE without having to push on the brake pedal in the car. Again, this is used just to test the system and not on a regular basis. I hope that helps I no longer own that exact unit but I'm sure the owner's manual is online somewhere. And I think this was covered but if you are using a vehicle that has a flat four pin trailer light connector, you must have your headlights fully on to send power to the TBC.

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