Switch for Jensen Radio

mp3phelan · July 30

I am trying my first wiring project on our 2025 TAB 320 CS. I'd like to add a switch to the radio to kill the lights and reduce the phantom draw. I purchased the recommended switch from a previous thread, but I've realized that the tabs are too close together to use blade connectors without touching. I believe I need to add a jumper to connect the "+" to power the light, the accessory wire, and then add a ground. I am unable to add the jumper without impacting the accessory tab/blade.

First, am I correct that this is the correct configuration? I've added the wiring diagram from the switch's vendor. Is the jumper required?

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/1i/0c6yywnjz607.png

Am I right that I need to cut the red wire shown in this photo? I need to create a jumper without a blade connector on one side. Is this something I can teach myself? I do have a simple soldering iron, but have never attempted to use it.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/at/0zgyo8o84h4l.jpg

Can someone tell me the best place to run a new ground from the switch? Or should I give up?

Bayliss · July 30

@mp3phelan, these discussion threads may help you out:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/2979/jensen-on-off-switch/p1

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/5577/jensen-radio-disconnect/p1

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/18995/added-a-disconnect-switch-for-the-radio-t-b-360#latest

RTWCTS · July 30

@mp3phelan in your photo: The red wire is going to a connector called a WAGO. It is clear and orange. If you look at it, you'll notice that there is an orange tab above the slot where the red wire is installed. Lift that tab and the wire should come free without cutting.
These WAGO connectors are reuseable by simply slipping a correctly stripped wire back in and closing the tab. You can find the WAGO connectors at Home Depot or Amazon in various connector styles. You don't need to solder anything anymore or use wire nuts or crimp connectors.

pthomas745 · July 30

In many of the Jensens, the lights can be completely turned off. Tell us your Jensen model and we can find the relevant section of the manual.

mp3phelan · July 30

@RTWCTS thanks for pointing that out. I am learning more every day. Ok - so I can use the WAGO on one end, but I still need to connect the wire to the switch terminals. I believe that will need to be soldered, correct? Also any idea on if I need to ground the switch?

mp3phelan · July 30

@pthomas745 It is a JWM22. My real goal is to kill the power going to the radio. We overwhelming boondock, and we keep running out of power and I've been reading the threads about the radio's draw. It seemed like a simple place to reduce and take on a small electrical project (before taking on adding a 2nd solar controller).

I def have a lot of respect for the collective wisdom of this group so if I am off my rocker on this, please let me know.

Yoshi_TAB · July 30

Hi,

Can I suggest a different switch that I used (if you can return the one above). I bought this switch and connected in between the red +12 V wire to break power.

Amazon.com: JIANFA Car Push Button Switch DIY Switch Off/ON Universal DC12V Switch for Fog Driving Lights neon Lights LED Light bar etc. : Automotive

Remove the red wire from the WAGO and connect to one end of the switch using another WAGO or "butt" connector. Connect the second wire on the switch to the place you removed the red wire from the OEM WAGO. The ON/OFF switch will break power to the Jenson.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/w8/hcfli660dzj8.jpg

subkron · July 30

I used this switch to kill radio power, it matches other switches already in my T@B:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8SXSBW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_28&th=1
Note: Since there were 8 in the package I added one to kill power to the step light

As mentioned above, the Wago connectors make life simple.

You can get "kits" with a variety of Wagos, very handy to have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W3QXN9B?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

1. Remove the red +12VDC Switched wire in your pic above (simply lift Wago lever and pull out wire) and connect it into a new 2-pin Wago from you kit. Then take the switch wire +Load and connect it to the other port on this same 2-pin Wago.
2. From the switch, take the wire labeled as +Power, strip the end using the strip length conveniently marked on the side of the Wago. Then insert this wire into the now open port where the original +12VDC Switched wire was.
3. For the ground, there is a white wire labeled GROUND going to a Wago. If there is a spare port on that Wago, just insert the black wire GROUND from the switch into that open GROUND port. IF there are no spare/open GROUND ports, then go back to you kit and get a Wago with at least 1 more port that the existing. For exampl, if the white GROUND wire went to a 2-port, change it to a 3-port. If it was a 3-port, change it to a 5-port (4-ports are scarce as hen's teeth).

I would suggest that all this should be done with power removed to prevent inadvertent shorts causing fusing issues. And easy way is to just pull the radio fuse from the power center while you wire it up.

mp3phelan · July 31

@subkron Thank you so much for the detailed step by step. Wago and switches are ordered. We will be sleeping better on our next trip out. Thank you

RTWCTS · July 31

mp3phelan said:

Ok - so I can use the WAGO on one end, but I still need to connect the wire to the switch terminals. I believe that will need to be soldered, correct?

For some reason my brain was thinking you had pigtail wires that came with the switch, similar to what @subkron links to in their post. If not, then yes, it is time to practice soldering (Sorry for the brain slip).

mp3phelan said:

Also any idea on if I need to ground the switch?

The diagram provided by the vendor shows a ground/negative connection is needed. I would look for the WAGO that is used in connecting the Radio to the ground. It probably has two connection points (tabs for wires). Replace it with a WAGO with three connection points and add your switch ground wire to that.

Most of all, enjoy the learning and be proud of what you're accomplishing!

mp3phelan · July 31

@Yoshi_TAB Thank you for the suggestion. I was hoping for something a little more low profile, but this does look like a simpler suggestion. Thank you for taking the time.

Yoshi_TAB · July 31

mp3phelan said:

@Yoshi_TAB Thank you for the suggestion. I was hoping for something a little more low profile, but this does look like a simpler suggestion. Thank you for taking the time.

Hi, Look for others that meet your needs…any 2 wire 12V ON/OFF switch will work…happy darkness !

SLJ · July 31

I ran everything that was always on to a switch panel I installed. This switch should work fine. Use the led or not. You can just drill a round hole and not use the switch plate if you want: https://amzn.to/44UrAqc

pthomas745 · July 31

No, you are not "off your rocker". I will say, though: this mod was more of a big deal back when we had 'only" 40 amp hours of usable batteries, and not many owners had solar. So, the resulting power savings may be less than you think with your larger lithium. Still a good project, though.

"Keep Running Out Of Power" sounds like a completely different issue. Try to start a new thread if this continues to be an issue for you. There are several things to look at as far as battery setup, etc.

Here is the page from the JWM 22 manual, with the "Dimming" instructions buried in the fine print under "Systems Menu". You won't have to worry about this after putting in your switch, however!

subkron · July 31

@mp3phelan
Forgot to mention, you will (of course) need to drill a hole for the switch. If you went with the link I provided it is a 0.8" hole diameter. I had a 3/4" bit laying around, I used that and finished with a rat tail file to get it to fit.

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