2025 Tab 360 w-Lithium Upgrade

@Yoshi_TAB, we meet again!  You and your posts were very helpful when I upgraded my 320 batteries, but I just bought a 360 Black Canyon with a 100ah BB Lithium standard.  Congrats on your 360 CS!  I saw you were upgrading the batteries… did you also install the MultiPlus Inverter/Charger?  If so, can you point me to any posts that show how to do this?  Thanks!

I just brought a 2026 tab360 home, black canyon. Mine has the upgraded solar system but only the 100 amp hour battery.  I am leaning towards more battery storage. The Battleborn is an expensive battery for what you get. Is it worth it? That’s for the individual to decide. I am leaning towards taking Battleborn out. Installing a single 320ah battery. I don’t need the battery heater mode. I am pulling the battery and storing it inside my home in the winter. It’s inside the house of the trailer and that will not see low temps during normal operation. There will not be a need to change the charge controller for me anyway. 

Hi,

I have the 360CS where the OEM 100 ah battery is in the front.  I changed out to the 230 Ah LiTime battery and placed it  in the rear under the seat back, where it is placed for the non CS model.  I am very happy with the performance of the battery.  I consistently get 50 amps of charge out of the OEM WFCO charger.

I cut the cover (over the entire rear area) into two sections.  One that would stay over the AC and a second section over the area where I relocated the battery.  Because you really do not need to go in there often, I thought it was fine.  Instead of screws, I placed velco around the perimeter to hold the covers in place, but in reality..I think it would be fine w/o screws or velcro.  The cover is recessed and not going any where.

I'm also on the fence to add an inverter  or just use a Ecoflow or Jackery to power a few indoor kitchen items .  The only thing I want  to heat is  hot water in a kettle and run the microwave for very short periods of time.  Well within the the capability of those units .  I have an 2000W Ecoflow.  I installed an inverter and transfer switch when I had our 320 and although very convenient, I'm not sure all the work and expense is really needed for the little non shore power we need.

All the AC circuits come out of the WFCO.  There is an extra slot you could use to place an outlet in the kitchen area.  I would guess the wattage of a Blackstone is in the same range of a hot water kettle (1500 or so) but would be run much longer for cooking than just heating water up.  Here are a few photos that might be helpful.

On a side note, I've read it's not a good idea to mix different brands of LiPhos. batteries.  I ended up selling my 100 Ah BB.

Just catching up on this set of comments. We have one of the first 360s to have been built - Black Canyon edition. Our first off grid experience last year was not good - the BB100Ah battery lasted only 26 hours in 90 degree heat with the trailer in mostly shade. And that's with the fridge on a low setting and the economy features enabled. Had to use the fridge as an icebox/cooler. Had to charge phones in the car. Needless to say, this is not what we expected. We seldom camp more than four-five days, but I wanted to be comfortable doing this without having to settle for sites with power. Here's what we did:

1. Installed a 300 Ah Renogy Mini. It is a tight fit, but does go in. It was far cheaper to replace the BB than to add a second BB and only get 200Ah. Plus there is more air space for cooling. You will have to rearrange the hold down loops and get some new webbing. Only downside is that the battery does not have internal heating, but that is not an issue as we don't winter camp and I pull the battery at the end of the season. I was contemplating a separate hatch so I don't have to remove the whole seat every time - I was thinking hinge, but the Velcro idea above is great !
2. Had the dealer retrofit the fridge cooling fan under warranty. Newer 360s have a small computer fan behind the fridge, wired to activate when the fridge is on. Before the fan was installed, the cabinet above the fridge got extremely hot, and we had to watch what food we stored in there. But the big issue was how hard the fridge had to run because the heat around the coils wasn't escaping. Fridge was running about 50% of the time, so that's 60 Ah in a 24 hour period.
3. Installed a kill switch for the radio. The parasitic demand on the battery in our trailer was almost a full amp. Almost half of that was the radio (i.e. 12Ah in 24 hours). The TV, on the other hand, is almost nothing. You still have the CO2 detector and the power supply, but this was a significant reduction.
4. Invested in a 220 watt Renogy external solar suitcase and MPPT controller. In full sun, this unit can crank out 8 or 9 amps and basically run the trailer by itself, even if the roof panels are in shade. I have 30' of cables to let me get to sunny spots on the campsite.
5. Rewired the connections to the shunt. NuCamp tech says the only wire on the negative terminal of the battery should be the ground. My external solar bypassed the shunt, and there were some other issues. My Victron will now give an accurate reading on battery status.

My first test this spring was a couple of 65 degree days with full sun in my driveway. The fridge on setting 2 ran two full days (along with the ceiling fan running most of the time drawing 1-2 amps), and I only used 34% of a fully charged battery. The roof panels were more effective than I have ever seen camping, so that helped, but I did not use the external solar suitcase. Much happier and more confident now. Looking forward to a full trial in the field to confirm.