Periodic partial draining of Alde hot water tank.

I know the recommended way of restoring the air space in the tank is to open the yellow valves under the bed (T@B 400) but it's a hassle. Why is it not equally effective simply to open the hot water valve under the camper by the driver side wheel? (Pump off and pressure released.) Much easier than taking the bed apart.

What am I missing?

Comments

  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Posts: 2,050

    Just a Guess.

    The Low Point HW Drain is after the TMV (hot-cold mixing valve),
    The Yellow Pressure Relief Valve is directly connected to the Adle water tank.

    3020why.jpg

    Using the Yellow Valve as documented in the Alde manual insures resetting the air cushion.

    '18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based

    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures: 59 Nights: 411 Towing Miles 50,350

  • EPOD1
    EPOD1 Posts: 34

    I am not a fan of lifting the bed unless I have to fix something or winterize. Recently we added double sized purple mattress and just love it. I will get into the details in another post but having that wonderful mattress makes for a pain to lift the under bed panels.

    To solve the issue of resetting the air cushion I might consider moving all valves for drainage to an exterior control.

  • ScottG
    ScottG Posts: 5,688

    On my 2015 320, opening the low point COLD water drain will also drain the Alde. Cold water enters at the bottom of the boiler and HW exits at the top, so draining (regardless of the method) is typically through the CW feed.

    Not sure if it will work the same on your 400, but might be worth looking into.

    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
  • BillCB
    BillCB Posts: 73

    Thank you all. If one is near a town water source one could presumably drain the whole system and then power fill. Much easier than removing the bed "springs", mattresses and topper.

    I usually only travel with one-third tank full (unless I'm really boondocking for a week) so the time to drain would be just about the time to have a nice glass of wine while waiting….

  • Mickerly
    Mickerly Posts: 500

    It depends on the installation. If the Alde is by itself, opening the cold water drain should drain the hot water tank. If there is an Alde Flow, this doesn't work. You need to use the yellow pressure relief valve.

    Newer then 2023 may have a different design.

    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"
  • BillCB
    BillCB Posts: 73

    Thank you Mickerly. It is an Alde Flow so I guess I'll have to play by the rules.

    Bill

  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Posts: 2,050

    '18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based

    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures: 59 Nights: 411 Towing Miles 50,350

  • BillCB
    BillCB Posts: 73

    Thanks for the diagram. I assume the air space that is needed in in the Alde 3020, not the Alde Flow?

  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Posts: 2,050

    Correct. 'Tank' is in the main Alde unit.

    The 'Flow' Unit is just a heat-exchanger, not storage.
    Don't believe Alde has not shared the Flow internal configuration.

    '18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based

    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures: 59 Nights: 411 Towing Miles 50,350

  • BillCB
    BillCB Posts: 73

    Thanks again!

    Bill

  • EPOD1
    EPOD1 Posts: 34

    Good engineering is all about taking things away. But what if we added a small expansion tank instead of going through all of this?

    They make them very small, like a one quart size.

  • Mickerly
    Mickerly Posts: 500

    The Flow unit is a preheater, not just a holding tank. When you select the full triangle from the control panel, you get a higher temperature for a short period. The higher temperature and preheating the water makes the little tank act like an on-demand heater while you shower without all the problems associated with an on-demand heater.

    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"
  • EPOD1
    EPOD1 Posts: 34

    Mickerly,

    Good point!

    Thanks

    I am still curious if a small expansion tank on the hot side would eliminate the need to constantly replenish the air spring on the system. In bladder-less expansion tanks Henry's law takes over and if we were to dive deeper into the physics we would see how that actually causes other issues besides the loss of the air spring.

    My wife is going to kill me…..

  • rfuss928
    rfuss928 Posts: 1,192

    I don't have an Alde system but I added a Shurflo Accumulator at the water pump output to smooth out the water flow and reduce pump running at low flows. An easy modification with good results…

    20250609_160243.jpg

  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Posts: 2,050

    @EPOD1 said: . . still curious if a small expansion tank on the hot side would eliminate the need
    to constantly replenish the air spring on the system

    IMHO, no.
    Accumulator Tanks, the small RV/Marine tanks added to pulse pump systems, are intended to smooth out the pressure pulses providing 'claimed constant water pressure' for at least the accumulator tank volume.

    The Adle air cushion is there to absorb water volume changes due to heating the water in the confined Adle tank. Would assume without the air cushion tank will over pressure, if high enough the pressure relief valve should dump water/pressure . . . but could other damage occur it that was a regular operation feature?

    Recommendation is to activate the relief valve every ten days or at end of each outing which even occurs first. If that frequency is an issue with the bedding then DIY access improvement modifications should be considered:

    • Perhaps cutting a hand access hole above the valve so only mattress must be lifted.
    • Some owners have created mechanical linkages so valve handle can be flipped from outside the Alde compartment.
    • Expect several options are possible based on how big an issue this is and how creative one's mind.

    '18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based

    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures: 59 Nights: 411 Towing Miles 50,350

  • EPOD1
    EPOD1 Posts: 34

    rfuss928, Love what you did there.

    MuttonChops, Your input is very much appreciated but I am talking about a small Expansion tank, not an accumulator. The idea is not to smooth the pulsing of the pump but to keep an airspring on the system. The air spring will allow for expansion without causing the relief valve (typically a T&P valve) to lift.

    An example from a data sheet on a half gallon expansion tank:

    The Neo-Pure Thermal Expansion tanks are designed for residential water
    heater and hot water storage tank systems to manage the increased water
    volume caused by thermal expansion. By maintaining consistent pressure
    throughout the water supply system, these tanks help protect against
    over-pressure conditions and extend the life of the system. A durable
    internal membrane separates air and water, ensuring reliable performance
    over time. Thermal Expansion Tanks are the perfect solution for
    protecting your appliances, water heater, and fixtures.

    Features

    • Protects the water heater and plumbing fixtures from premature failure
    • Prevents pressure build up within the system

    The tank is installed inline on the cold water supply (inlet) to the Alde Flow.

  • Mickerly
    Mickerly Posts: 500

    It looks to me like this is an accumulator with a 40psi precharge. Let us know if it works.

    You should empty the hot water heater between trips. If you don't, the water stored in the tanks will go "stale" and possibly become not healthy. We normally did one trip per month on average. The draining and refilling took care of the air-space needs. If you are going to be in the trailer for a couple weeks at a time, the resetting the air would be inconvenient.

    Good luck.

    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"
  • rfuss928
    rfuss928 Posts: 1,192
    edited September 9

    The Shurflo Accumulator shown is an adjustable pressure air chamber separated from the water by a diaphragm. The pressure is adjusted to match the system pressure. The liquid volume varies with the system pressure and the air cushion is maintained.

    If the recommended Neo-Pure unit is installed on the cold water supply as described above, it seems the Shurflo unit is designed for the same basic function and would accomplish the needed function if the volume capacity is adequate.

  • Mickerly
    Mickerly Posts: 500

    That's what I saw.

    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"