Out with the CoolCat, In with the Frigidaire 6K Btu Window A/C
JackPack
Member Posts: 10
I remember a thread where someone else used a muffin fan to accomplish what I'm about to describe.
What I have to work with:
There's a bunch of extra space around the new A/C unit - it's about two inches shorter, several inches shallower, and about 3 inches narrower than the CoolCat. I've got some woodworking to do, and I can insulate the top, bottom and sides as long as said insulation is forward of the intake vents. I'll probably just use some short pieces of Unistrut under the unit to get it level and lined up with the opening into the cabin of the trailer. Unistrut, by the way, is metal channel electricians use to route wire. It's strong, already has holes for bolts, and could be well described as the basis of an adult erector set. :-)
I've ordered a 14 inch diameter 90W 12VDC fan on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI08WNA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as well as a thermostat with a probe (so I can monitor the temperature at the back of the A/C but mount the gauge where I can see it, probably over the A/C unit). The thermostat can be set to start the fan at a temperature of my choosing.
Here's what I plan to do. The fan will sit just behind the grill on the side of the T@b, and I will use it to suck air out the back of the A/C unit. I'll fabricate a shroud for the fan so that it pulls air through the back of the A/C, with the air flowing from outside through the space outside the fan shroud and in through the vents on the sides of the unit. This should work as long as I seal up the shroud to the back of the unit's side panels so that the airflow is as described, and it does not just flow in the edges and back out again at the fan. When completed, it'll look sorta like the cooling fan and its shroud on a car.
Am I on track?
JAckPack. 2016 Taco Pulling a 2012 MaxxQ.
What I have to work with:
There's a bunch of extra space around the new A/C unit - it's about two inches shorter, several inches shallower, and about 3 inches narrower than the CoolCat. I've got some woodworking to do, and I can insulate the top, bottom and sides as long as said insulation is forward of the intake vents. I'll probably just use some short pieces of Unistrut under the unit to get it level and lined up with the opening into the cabin of the trailer. Unistrut, by the way, is metal channel electricians use to route wire. It's strong, already has holes for bolts, and could be well described as the basis of an adult erector set. :-)
I've ordered a 14 inch diameter 90W 12VDC fan on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI08WNA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as well as a thermostat with a probe (so I can monitor the temperature at the back of the A/C but mount the gauge where I can see it, probably over the A/C unit). The thermostat can be set to start the fan at a temperature of my choosing.
Here's what I plan to do. The fan will sit just behind the grill on the side of the T@b, and I will use it to suck air out the back of the A/C unit. I'll fabricate a shroud for the fan so that it pulls air through the back of the A/C, with the air flowing from outside through the space outside the fan shroud and in through the vents on the sides of the unit. This should work as long as I seal up the shroud to the back of the unit's side panels so that the airflow is as described, and it does not just flow in the edges and back out again at the fan. When completed, it'll look sorta like the cooling fan and its shroud on a car.
Am I on track?
JAckPack. 2016 Taco Pulling a 2012 MaxxQ.
Comments
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Look forward to hearing / seeing how the project progresses.Nate & Cheryl
Seabrook, TX
2014 T@B Q Max, 2012 Toyota Tundra 4.6 -
I made a similar swap a couple years back. You are right on track. In my case the shroud is all that was needed to get the warmed air out past the grill on the side of the T@B. The AC units fan moves plenty of air as long as it is not recirculating the hot exhaust air.
Have fun!
Bob
SUNT@B

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That looks pretty straightforward. Did you use metal to line the whole enclosure?
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Yes, the sides and bottom are one piece with about two inch pitch on the bottom toward the outside. The front is mounted in a synthetic lumber frame and sealed within the cabinet similar to a window installation. A top piece makes it weather/road spray tight with the help of a removable grate cover used when on the road. There is a photo file in the T@B Yahoo forum titled " AC Retrofit - CoolCat replacement" with several more photos. If I can figure out how to resize them all, I'll move them over here.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/tabtrailers/photos/albums/988251586
Have fun!
Bob
SUNT@B

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Nice, clean install Bob, looks good.The HobbiT@B, 2015-L, towed by a2014 RAM C/V
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Bob, thanks for the help. It was really good to learn that the A/C exhaust fan should take care of the needed airflow. More later once the outside temp drops below a zillion and I can go back to work!
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The other primary consideration is weather tight construction. I tried to achieve that with the one piece liner with no punctures. Storm water, road spray and AC condensate all need to be directed to the outside.
You will need a furnace only thermostat and some sorting of the furnace power and thermostat wiring once the CC is removed.
Good luck.
Have fun!!
Bob

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