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black tank pipe seems loose

Hello all,I have a 2014 cs-s with the shower and toilet,I haven't used the black tank since buying the trailer,I just noticed,the black tank drain is basically a elbow with a valve that is connected to the underside of the holding tank,well my elbow will swivel where it connects to the tank,just doesn't seem right,I am sure if there was liquid in the tank,the underside of the floor between the fabric and floor would get wet ,not good,Anyone know if this should be glued in place?

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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,485
    I have a 2015-S. It looks like there is a male connector of sorts attached to the underside of the tank, into which the female end of the drain elbow is inserted. Mine does not swivel. Whether it's held in place by PVC cement or (less likely) some sort of compression fitting is hard to tell, but either way it doesn't seem like something that should be moving.

    Is it loose enough to completely remove so you can get a better look?
    2015 T@B S

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    bigmattbigmatt Member Posts: 31
    I'm using the t@b now ,once I get her back to the storage lot , I'll have closer look,to see exactly where the movement is,I thought I remember a thread about the factory using the wrong glue at the tank,but I can't seem to find in now
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    bigmatt, Please post what you find for others info, thanks!
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    bigmattbigmatt Member Posts: 31
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    DerecoDereco Member Posts: 89
    I appear to have the exact same problem, and noticed it when I went to dump sewer. I did not try to turn the black pipe too much, but noticed it has slight movement sideways (not up or down into the trailer...). Like Bigmatt, am interested in thoughts.
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    USWildflowersUSWildflowers Member Posts: 177
    It is not threaded, it is a glued fitting. I think this was a problem on some T@bs built in 2014. They got a batch of "bad" or "wrong" glue, to my recollection. Normal PVC glue reported won't work on the fitting. The factory recommended J-B Weld PlasticWeld, "World's Strongest Bond" quick setting epoxy.  https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50132-PlasticWeld-Quick-Setting/dp/B009EU5ZMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469634962



    gerry - Flintstone, GA - 2015 T@B S - 2012 Toyota Highlander

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    USWildflowersUSWildflowers Member Posts: 177
    BTW, I never got around to gluing mine; it still swivels, although not easily. I check it each time I empty, and verify that the retainer strap is still secure. It hasn't leaked (so far!)
    gerry - Flintstone, GA - 2015 T@B S - 2012 Toyota Highlander

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    bigmattbigmatt Member Posts: 31
    Thanks Gerry,I will remove the strap next chance I get,to see if it comes completely off,if it does I will look into the JB weld - Matt
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    bigmattbigmatt Member Posts: 31
    edited July 2016
    OK boys and girls,I removed the strap supporting the valve assembly,just as I suspected,the pipes pulled right apart,The glue the factory used stuck really well to the ABS fitting ,but not so much to the tank fitting,What I did discover was the the tank has a smooth "nipple" plastic welded to the tank itself,which comes through a hole in the floor, it protrudes through the floor about 1/4 of a inch.Now the problem is with this "nipple" ,I believe it to be polypropylene,the elbow witch is suppose to glue to it is ABS plastic,Finding a glue for polypropylene is almost impossible,it is very hard to get any glue to stick.I did call the factory ,and USwildflowers is correct,they recommend JB weld plasticweld,In my opinion this won't work,However I was in one of the big box stores,and found this   http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_plstc/overview/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System.htm  I am also a little skeptical about this too,but they do claim it to work with polypropylene,so back to trailer I go,I clean up the fittings,and apply the glue,I slide the fittings together,and to my surprise,a instant bond,Now I'm thinking this is just a temporary fix,my plan is to keep a close eye on it,the second I find it broke loose,I am going to buy a plastic welder,the preferred method for polypropylene. the good part about all this ,is if it does leak,it won't leak into the floor,because the joint is below the trailer floor.

    matt

    PS .I did do all the factory requested sealing described in the above sticky thread,I did have more then one areas that did need caulking,so if you haven't done it yet,get out there,and get under your trailers. 
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    bigmatt, Thanks for sharing your experience and fix. Best of luck, and Happy Trails!
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    Thanks for the update!!
    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,485
    Yep--thanks. I've glued plenty of drain pipe but I don't think it would have occurred to me that ordinary PVC cement was a no-go in this situation. Also would never expect a glued fitting to separate like that--something else to keep an eye on.
    2015 T@B S

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