Considering to remove the Propane tank, your advice?

Playc · December 2016

We were new to camping in 2015 and purchased the Sofitel edition then. I have learned a lot from you all on the forum and big thanks.

As we always stay at site with electricity, we never used the propane since day 1. It's highly unlikely in our future camping we will go to place w/o electricity hookup.

So is it good idea to simply unhook and remove the propane tank? Hence have space for storage and reduce the weight (not much).

As always I thank you all.

Tabaz · December 2016

I assume you're not using the propane stove?

Verna · December 2016

In an emergency, with the propane, you can have heat in the winter, you could cook on a gas stove (propane), and have hot water for showers or washing dishes, and have a bed to sleep in.

My personal opinion, is to keep the propane tank because you may need it for no more than resell value, or an emergency.

Playc · December 2016

As we are in our retirement age and late starters for camping, we do not foresee us doing any adventurous camping (i.e., w/o electricity). We have not used the stove either as we simply use the electric cookware.

Your points are well taken, esp., for resell value. Maybe we simply disconnect and remove the tank to put in back porch. And reconnect as needed. I take disconnect, remove, and reconnect are simply to do, right?

Verna · December 2016

Yes, just unscrew the hose from the propane tank. Then use tie wraps (zip ties) to tie the hose so that it doesn't move around.

As far as storage in the front tub, I don't know which tub you have ( plastic or diamond plate), but neither tub has a back to them and the plastic model doesn't have a bottom. Use care and something to secure any items in the tub. I use carabiners to attach two short spare extension cords to the propane tank, and I also clip the paracord on my chocks to carabiners also.

Dalehelman · December 2016

If you are sure you will not need it leave it at home no problem.

ScottG · December 2016

In the plastic tub, the propane tank sits on the bottom of the frame and is secured by an adjustable steel retaining ring. If you could replace the tank with a round bin of similar diameter, you'd have a nice storage space without having to reconfigure the hard parts. I'm not sure if the diamond plate tub is configured the same way.

Tabaz · December 2016

The diamond plate tubs (aka Outback) have a solid aluminum bottom.

Playc · December 2016

Great advice. Thanks to you all. Mine is the diamond tub. Now I just need to decide to remove it or not. We have not used the propane since we bought the Sofitel August 2015.

ChanW · December 2016

Also, Playc, depending on your area of travel, you might want to put some kind of cap on the end of the hose, to keep the mud-dauber wasps from filling the end of the hose with mud.

Photomom · December 2016

OutbackAZ said:

The diamond plate tubs (aka Outback) have a solid aluminum bottom.

but no back unfortunately.

ChrisK · December 2016

Why not swap it out for one of the smaller propane tanks? That way, in case of a power outage at the campground, you have a backup system just in case.

gulfarea · December 2016

I traveled on a 3,200 mile trip this summer without the tank. I do not boon dock. In the summer I want A/C so stopping where electrical hookups are is a must. There are so many different folks with T@B'S doing what they like and fits their lifestyle. I use what works for me. I do have the smaller 11 gal tank at home for going to Texas in the winter just in case of freeze ups. Not having that propane tank between the T@B and my tow in case someone hits me from behind in the summer makes me feel better. Art

rfuss928 · December 2016

I know a few T@Bbers that carry a "steak-saver" adapter and a couple one pound propane bottles for the occasional stove or furnace use. No large tank on-board.

Michigan_Mike · December 2016

One thing of note is that with the 3-way Norcold unit the refrigerator runs very efficient on the propane setting. I understand your point above and this is obviously a personal choice, but I was amazed at just how well the unit performed for me on propane and it's a nice feature to use when needed.

Playc · December 2016

Thanks Michigan_Mike for the advice. Maybe I should just keep it there and use when I drive across the nation and park at Walmart sometime.

Tabaz · December 2016

Photomom said:

OutbackAZ said:

The diamond plate tubs (aka Outback) have a solid aluminum bottom.

but no back unfortunately.

Correct. No back. Verna stated this allows venting for the battery and propane. However, some open netting could be used if one wanted to store nonflammables in the tub.

irvingj · December 2016

"put some kind of cap on the end of the hose" ...As usual, Chan beat me to it. Ditto the recommendation to protect the connection/valve/regulator if you do remove the tank. A heavy plastic bag zip-tied around it would probably suffice.

While we did run our Nor-cold on propane, that was about all we used it for; STILL always carry my trusty old Coleman liquid-fuel camp stove with me, and did most stove-top cooking outdoors on that; rarely used the kitchen stove.

The smaller propane tank sounds like a great idea!

Vermonster · December 2016

Hi Irvingj, it looks like your t@b was an almost twin sister of ours, except you had an outside light, and different wheels
Cheers!

Vermonster · December 2016

Irving, I was just thinking about your t@b and I have a question. One of the few flaws in ours is a sag in the ceiling carpet. It runs all the way across in the area of the top vent. The location would suggest a former water leak at some point but there is no staining or other evidence of water damage. Did you ever have any problem like this or hear of any? Seems like I may have seen something about using a syringe to inject glue. The carpet is pristine other than the sag so I don't want to take a chance on making it worse. Any thoughts?

Happy holidays to you!

Geo · December 2016

Vermonster,
The ceiling carpet de-lamination problem is fairly common on DM T@B's. The glue used seems to have been inadequate or not allowed to cure properly before exiting the factory floor.

My solution was to remove the ceiling fan trim, pry loose the edge of the carpeting around the fan hole (it stuck real good there due to the trim ring), make supports out of 1" x 2" 's to force and support the carpet into place from the floor, purchase a suitable length of hollow aluminium tube and construction glue, have a helper pull down the carpet (allowing access to ceiling cavity) , use the hollow tube as an extension for your caulk gun and apply the glue to the wood rafters both fore and aft of the fan hole, push carpet up and jam your supports into place to hold in place for the glue to dry (min. 24 hrs).
I was able to improve ours considerably, only a small bit of sag now near the outside wall on drivers side.

hope this helps,

irvingj · December 2016

We didn't actually have that problem with ours-- but there have been some comments about that here. Geo's advice is typical from what I've read. I've also read of folks using a syringe to inject glue, as you suggest. Guess we were lucky!

Vermonster · December 2016

Thanks Geo, yes that is a huge help! I realize this question was way out of this thread but I saw the photo of Irvingj's t@b and it reminded me that I've been meaning to ask

And actually I'm glad to hear that it was a common problem because that points away from any water issues. Your fix sounds like what I was thinking. I have so many projects in mind for our "vintage" t@b for this winter I'm not sure where I'm going to start.

Vermonster · December 2016

Thanks Irvingj. This fix is a bit down my priority list but may get to it this winter. Only time I notice it is occasionally when lying in bed and staring at the ceiling.

Considering to remove the Propane tank, your advice?

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