Does anyone have pictures of the valves in the dewinterization mode for a 2017 Tab Max S. I've looked at several for other year models, but the configurations don't match mine. Thank you.
My Alde system in my 2017 320S is different from the diagram shown in the first photos of Winterizing 101. I'm including a picture. In the Camping Mode, my hot water valve and cold water valves don't not turn up (toward the rear of the camper). There is a yellow flip up lever on the left side and I don't have a knob for the hot water drain valve.
It looks similar but my valves don't open the same way
If the valve Handle is in line with the hose/pipe the valve is Open. When the handle is perpendicular
to the hose/pipe it is Closed. Your valves might be installed so the handle swings down instead of up, left instead of right. What is important is if the Handle in-line ( Open ) or perpendicular ( Closed )
Also, what is the yellow tab which flips? Which way should it be?
The 2017 T@B User Manual shows a different piping layout (maybe a slid-in camper), the pictures include the Yellow Handle valve.
As the picture notes it is not part of the Winterize system.
It is a pressure relief valve.
It is on the cold side and the cold side winterize valve is below it . . . so I would leave the Yellow valve as is, set the Hot & Cold to summer use, fill the system and see want happens.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
The different write-up instructions imply the Yellow relief valve is used while draining the system, open Drain Valve in floor, toggle Yellow relief valve to vent tank so water can drain.
Interesting none of the more experienced T@Bbers have not joined in on this discussion.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Hmm, well figuring out this system is my next project...I know how to open the fresh water tank drain! I flipped the yellow valve but not much came out and I thought maybe not much hot water was in the tank, could be I needed to open some drain valve...:( Thank you for your posts above @MuttonChops
Debbie in Oregon 2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
The yellow flap is both a drain for the Alde HW reservoir, as well as a pressure-relief valve for the entire system.
Inconstant information from different resources has fueled some debate as to whether the yellow valve needs to be used in the winterizing process. I use it as I have not been fully convinced the tank will drain properly without it, and I am not keen on turning my Alde into a giant Popsicle mold.
There is a wrinkle... On at least one occasion I opened the valve and nothing came out. This did not sit well with me, as there is no other way to verify the tank is empty than physically seeing 2-3 gallons drain out of it.
This thread discusses the incident in greater detail. YMMV!
Thanks for all of the information. It looks as though I didn't winterize correctly as I don't think I drained all of the water out. Good thing I live in FL but we did have some long extended cold spells. Hopefully all is well with my unit.
Well I did the unthinkable and searched the ALDE 3010 and 3020 User Manuals.
Alde Directions for the Yellow Handle Relief/Drain Valve.
For our T@B installations the Relief/Drain valve is connected to the Cold water supply line. Not 100% sure how the Yellow Valve would operate as a relief valve if the water system is in normal pressurized condition. Do see how it would help to drain the Hot Water Tank if the floor drain valves are open and the Yellow Handle is moved to the 'Open' position.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Prior to this thread I also did not fully understand the T@B - Alde plumbing valve array.
I took delivery of a new unit in early March. The dealer fully tested the unit including the Hot/Cold Water and space heat.
When I got home I only drained the cold/hot lines and black, grey tanks. Also ran the fresh water tank down to no water coming out.
I did not use the Alde Relief/Drain Valve nor did I add RV Antifreeze.
Since early March we have had a few days with early morning temperatures in the 31F range . . . . I've not noticed any leakage it the Alde space but am slightly concerned my brand new system could have been stressed if not damaged.
Anyone care to hold my hand and insure me all is well . . . .
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
IIRC, the "inconsistency" I described previously was between the Alde manual (which describes the use of the yellow valve) and the official winterizing instructions from nuCamp (which does not). There's certainly nothing to lose by draining the Alde first using the yellow valve, so that's what I do.
@MuttonChops, even if you still have water in your Alde tank, you are probably fine. Those temps for the amount of time you describe are probably not enough to freeze solid 2.5 gallons inside the unit.
The relief valve assumption is anecdotal. Several owners have found that if they fail to use a pressure regulator when connected to city water, water pours out of the Alde drain. I'm assuming there's a spring-operated diaphragm (or some such thing) in there that is forced open beyond a certain pressure.
Hi. Just hopping in as I was trying to figure out this question, too, and not having much luck finding a good diagram.
I just bought a used 2017 T@B 320 S that I think was "partially" de-winterized. Hope I have completed the process correctly.
I'm trying to make sure I have all the water valves back in the correct position for camping (using Aldi for hot water, potentially heat in a month or so). Can anyone confirm, ALL of the valves, cold and hot, should be open (in-line) with the exception of the hot and cold external drain valves? (Those remain closed until ready to drain the system.) Am I getting this right?
Also, discovered the big black electrical cord is NOT plugged in. Weird ... I'm assuming that's the power to the Aldi and I should plug it in.
@CabooseCarrie - yes, plug in the Alde to the outlet under the bench and secure it to prevent it dislodging during travel. It is easy to forget about as it is hidden under the bench, but should be the first thing to think about if the Alde does not work on shorepower.
You are correct to leave the hot and cold water floor drains closed and the yellow flapper valve closed as well. Also, make sure the Alde bypass valve is closed - that’s the one that connects the red and blue pipes. All other valves should be open to be able to use the Alde for hot water. I recommend connecting to city water and opening all the faucets and flush the toilet to empty the pipes of air, then close the faucets, but open one hot faucet and let the Alde water tank fill. This becomes important if you will be dry camping - it saves a lot of water from the fresh water tank that would be otherwise wasted on filling the plumbing.
@Sharon_is_SAM, thank you! That is EXACTLY the info I needed. And, yes, I'd left the by-pass valve open, so will close it while plugging the unit back in.
This is my very first RV, so I have a LOT to learn. The forum is SO very helpful. Thanks again ~ Happy trails!
@pthomas745 - Awesome pic. Some of the other photos I saw were blurry or the valves were "hidden" by other hoses. This is, also, VERY helpful. Thank you!
Comments
If you've already seen this and yours look different, please provide a description or photo.
Except for the Yellow Handle Valve your picture looks just like the Manual picture to my eyes. Your System is in the Winterized Mode.
Am I missing something in your question?
Believe the Yellow one is Not Part of the Winter/Season Valves
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
When the handle is perpendicular to the hose/pipe it is Closed.
Your valves might be installed so the handle swings down instead of up, left instead of right. What is important is if the Handle in-line ( Open ) or perpendicular ( Closed )
The Green Arrow Line below shows the Hot Water Drain for both pictures.
It is OPEN in your picture. Water will drain.
The 2017 T@B User Manual shows a different piping layout (maybe a slid-in camper), the pictures include the Yellow Handle valve.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
Interesting none of the more experienced T@Bbers have not joined in on this discussion.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
Inconstant information from different resources has fueled some debate as to whether the yellow valve needs to be used in the winterizing process. I use it as I have not been fully convinced the tank will drain properly without it, and I am not keen on turning my Alde into a giant Popsicle mold.
There is a wrinkle... On at least one occasion I opened the valve and nothing came out. This did not sit well with me, as there is no other way to verify the tank is empty than physically seeing 2-3 gallons drain out of it.
This thread discusses the incident in greater detail. YMMV!
Well I did the unthinkable and searched the ALDE 3010 and 3020 User Manuals.
For our T@B installations the Relief/Drain valve is connected to the Cold water supply line. Not 100% sure how the Yellow Valve would operate as a relief valve if the water system is in normal pressurized condition. Do see how it would help to drain the Hot Water Tank if the floor drain valves are open and the Yellow Handle is moved to the 'Open' position.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
I took delivery of a new unit in early March. The dealer fully tested the unit including the Hot/Cold Water and space heat.
When I got home I only drained the cold/hot lines and black, grey tanks. Also ran the fresh water tank down to no water coming out.
I did not use the Alde Relief/Drain Valve nor did I add RV Antifreeze.
Since early March we have had a few days with early morning temperatures in the 31F range . . . . I've not noticed any leakage it the Alde space but am slightly concerned my brand new system could have been stressed if not damaged.
Anyone care to hold my hand and insure me all is well . . . .
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
@MuttonChops, even if you still have water in your Alde tank, you are probably fine. Those temps for the amount of time you describe are probably not enough to freeze solid 2.5 gallons inside the unit.
The relief valve assumption is anecdotal. Several owners have found that if they fail to use a pressure regulator when connected to city water, water pours out of the Alde drain. I'm assuming there's a spring-operated diaphragm (or some such thing) in there that is forced open beyond a certain pressure.
You are correct to leave the hot and cold water floor drains closed and the yellow flapper valve closed as well. Also, make sure the Alde bypass valve is closed - that’s the one that connects the red and blue pipes. All other valves should be open to be able to use the Alde for hot water. I recommend connecting to city water and opening all the faucets and flush the toilet to empty the pipes of air, then close the faucets, but open one hot faucet and let the Alde water tank fill. This becomes important if you will be dry camping - it saves a lot of water from the fresh water tank that would be otherwise wasted on filling the plumbing.