Zamp Solar questions

lkc001

So, I've been trying to study up on the Zamp solar.  I have the Zamp port factory installed.  From what I see, the Zamp specific systems are significantly more pricey than something comparable from say Renogy.  I would like to someday get a portable unit.  Are there cables/connections/adapters that can be used to hook up a Renogy portable through the Zamp port or an adaptor for the trailer electrical/7 pin cable so I wouldn't have to hook up to the battery every time I use it?  If I'm understanding what I'm researching, the Zamp uses different connectors than the Renogy uses?  Zamp also is reverse polarized?  I would not be comfortable with striping wire & splicing on a different connector.  Is that the only way this can be done?  WHY did they use this Zamp system?

ScottG

@lkc001, Zamp uses a standard SAE connector. The point of confusion has to do with which pin of the connector is connected to (+) and which is connected to (-). Apparantly Zamp wires their SAE connectors opposite from those of some other popular devices.

(SOAPBOX ALERT: I don't like the term "reverse polarity" as actually reversing the polarity of electrical connection is NOT something you ever want to do. Positive should always be connected to positive, and negative to negative, regardless of how your specific connectors are oriented!)

There are adapters that can be used to swap which pin carries which leg of the connection. However, I'm not sure what Renogy is currently using for a connector on their systems, or if a particular adapter exists that will allow you to escape any cutting and splicing. I modified my Renogy panels to work with the Zamp port, bit it did involve some wire splicing as well as attachment of some crimp fittings.

There are a number of discussions here on this topic. If you do a search, grab a cup of coffee, and buckle in you might find a particular solution that works for you.

This one might get you started.

4ncar

I agree & disagree with @ScottG. I don’t mind the term “reverse polarity”,but, I agree that it is bad practice to start reversing wires midstream. If you go the way of Renogy, and want to use the port outside, then just swap the two wires on the other end, at the battery. You may want to flag the positive just in case you forget, &/or for a possible future owners use.

pthomas745

The SAE connector/cable is very very very simple to work around.  You can use an adapter for an easy fix. Or:

Once I figured it all out, I just sliced one end off an SAE cable, and trimmed the insulation a half inch or so.

And then:  connected the wire that goes to the big metal part of the cable to the negative "slot" of the solar controller.  Then connected the wire that goes to the "plastic" part of the cable to the positive "slot" of the controller.  Job done. 

When I look at my Zamp port, the top of it is the positive side, the bottom is the negative side. The big metal part of the SAE cable will only go into the bottom part of the Zamp port.

Of course, with the fog of the internet and the endless confusion of the polarity that will not be named, it took me a year to learn this! 

One of the threads that truly helped was this post from Michigan Mike.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6230/zamp-solar-connections-explained

lkc001

Thank you all for the responses & information— am still researching & learning about solar— 

rcuomo

Ditto 4ncar’s comments, all you have to do is reverse the cables. I installed a simple inexpensive SAE connector in the tub for my Renogy suitcase. Sollarseller.com is a good source for inexpensive high quality cables, adapters and connectors. BTW I use the same connector for my cheap trickle charger as shown in these pics.

mgreen2

Changing the wiring of the Zamp port means the hot side of the cable you plug in will be exposed which can cause a short if you touch it to metal on the camper. This can blow a fuse or damage the battery. Better to use the Renogy adapter. Amazon sometimes has it less than Renogy 

https://www.renogy.com/mc4-to-sae-adapter-12-awg-cable/

rfuss928

mgreen2 said:

Changing the wiring of the Zamp port means the hot side of the cable you plug in will be exposed which can cause a short if you touch it to metal on the camper. This can blow a fuse or damage the battery. Better to use the Renogy adapter. Amazon sometimes has it less than Renogy 

https://www.renogy.com/mc4-to-sae-adapter-12-awg-cable/

Because neither wire from the solar panels are connected to anything, Both terminals are essentially "floating" and only dangerous if both terminals are somehow connected to each other.  An accidental bump of the exposed positive terminal from the solar panel to the camper or yourself will do nothing.

lkc001

I found information on these two adapters & the article said that if you get both of these you do not have to do any reverse wiring.  Is this correct? 

 1. Renogy MC4 to SAE adapter   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1TALFY/?coliid=I2ZK1E27IGFFQA&colid=10JTC9Y710WAC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

2.   

Tecmate Optimate Cable O-27, Adapter, Polarity, SAE

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHCWGOO/?coliid=I35J3WTUBIMUOK&colid=10JTC9Y710WAC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

pthomas745

I asked in the other thread:  do you already have a panel and controller?  Do you have a good idea of what the wiring from the panel to the controller looks like?  And what the wiring from the controller to the battery, or the controller to the "port" on the trailer will look like?  I think the MC4 to SAE adapter is not necessary, unless you intend to attach an SAE cable to the solar input of the controller.  You can find solar cables with MC4 connectors on one end to connect to the solar panel MC4 connectors.  The other end is bare wire that connects directly into the solar controller "solar input."  In this case, the adapter you have will be redundant.

lkc001

@pthomas745. I didn't see that question you asked.  No I do not have a panel or controller yet.  I want to get something that is portable-- leaning towards a Renogy that comes with a controller. My understanding is that a Renogy portable unit will not work with the Zamp unless I get those two adapters.  Is that incorrect?

pthomas745

You may be right, now that I look at the Renogy setup:  This is a link to a Renogy suitcase from Amazon, with a separate controller.  Have a look at the next to last photo, with an example of the connection to the battery with the alligator clips.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-RNG-KIT-STCS100D-SP-Monocrystalline-Controller-100W-Waterproof/dp/B01NADR1CI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VHRI71NRIUO3&keywords=renogy+suitcase+solar+panel+kit+with+controller&qid=1571794453&sprefix=renogy+su,aps,215&sr=8-3

In your case, the Renogy MC4 to SAE cable would replace the alligator clip cable.  The Optimate cable would attach to that, and then the Optimate  would go to the port on the trailer.  That should work.

Try to find out how long the cables attached to the suitcase  you are buying are.  You might need to get some extension cables to help you find the sun.  Those WindyNation cables under "frequently bought together" would work well.

PS:  I could make this work without any of the adapters.....but it took me a year of head scratching to figure it out!  So, go with this path of least resistance and enjoy your panel!

lkc001

@pthomas745
   Thank you for the confirmation on what I have been trying to understand about solar, integrating it to work with the Zamp.    I did not want to have to splice into any wiring or reverse any wiring, and really didn't care to use the alligator clips every time either. 

 Just want it to work like a plug-n-play since the port is already installed.   I definitely will check the length on the cable, I don't think it's all that long.   This is one of the few things that I am disappointed with on my little trailer.  There are so many other options out there for solar and the Zamp systems are 2 to 3 times higher in price than some other options, not to mention the wiring reversal.  

Horigan

You will definitely want an extension cord so you can place the panel in a good solar location, along with a cable lock of some sort to prevent theft.

ScottG

SOAPBOX ALERT #2...  ;-)

I've said this before but it bears repeating. Whatever you do with regard to making modifications or utilizing adapters, be sure to confirm to polarity of entire circuit from the panel to the battery to ensure that (+) is always connected to (+) and (-) is always connected to (-). The continuity function of a multimeter is great for this, but if that is too technical then visually tracing each leg with your own eyes works just as well.

Quick answers are nice, but if you start blindly snapping in multiple adapters you run the risk of actually reversing the polarity--a condition that may damage your solar controller, battery, or other component.

Employing this simple bit of verification is so much easier than worrying about whether or not you have purchased the correct dohicky or received correct information from the internet.

pthomas745

@lkc001 it took me a while to catch on...and when I finally looked at the Renogy suitcase I realized exactly what you were going for.  I made this harder for you than it should have been.....

I don't blame NuCamp for the Zamp stuff.  Five years ago, solar in small trailers was the dark ages, and the industry has exploded ever since.  Zamp at least had a method that would work "plug and play,"  but at a steep price tag. When owners started showing up with a decent amount of experience with their other brands of panels, they worked out how to put things together, skipping the Zamp or modifying it.   I've had a Renogy panel since 2013, and when I bought my trailer in 2017 called them for advice on how to use the "Zamp port".  They refused.  Called Zamp and asked how to make my panel work with their port.  They also refused.  Less than a year later, owners had figured it out, Renogy realized they were missing sales and started to sell adapters, etc.    The solar knowledge base has greatly expanded, and NuCamp no longer has a need to use Zamp as a selling point.

lkc001

@ScottG Absolutely am going to do that as well, before I purchase all of the adapters.  Just in case the previous owner switched they polarity or something. . . . . . 

pthomas745

If you know how to use a multi meter, it is easy to check the polarity/wiring on the Zamp port, and measure your battery state of charge to boot.  Put the red multimeter probe on the bottom part of the port, and the black probe in the top hole.  It should read 12.6 or whatever your state of charge is. This means the port is wired "correctly."   Reverse the black and red probes, and you will get a -12.6, etc. 

If you get a -12.6 with the red probe on the bottom and the black on top, this means the port was rewired for "normal polarity...." 

lkc001

@pthomas745. Ha!  That was going to be my next question— I want to learn about the wiring & electrical so I at least have a basic understanding of how everything is wired.  Got my multimeter— thanks!

ScottG

@lkc001, congrats on the multimeter--good tool! I suggest also learning to use the continuity setting I mentioned above. This simple function will tell you if two points are electrically connected (or continuous) with one another.

If you attach your meter to both ends of one leg of a wire--for example, the (+) end at the solar controller and the (+) end at the battery--the meter should beep.

If it doesn't beep, you likely have a bad connector, broken wire, blown fuse, OR you have inadvertently criss-crossed the (+) and (-) somewhere along the run.

lkc001

@ScottG more good info--Thanks!