No Electric Heat (solved) No Fridge Cooling (updated)

rkj__

Any troubleshooting help would be appreciated, as my electrical skills are weak.

2016 320 CS-S

AC power connected.  Outlets work.  Battery charged.  All breakers on converter in on position.

Alde works fine on propane, but putting the slide switches (old style control panel) on electric heat does not generate cabin heat.  Circulation pump runs though.  Heating on propane works fine.  AC aux fan works.

Fridge inside light turns on.  No cooling at all though.  No noise.

Thanks for any feedback.

MuttonChops

Have you confirmed the Alde 120VAC plug is plugged in?  They can come loose.
How long have you waited to say Fridge is not working on 120VAC?
Very unlikely two different items would fail at same time . . . so issue has to be with Power Source or your observation of what is actually happening or not happening.

rkj__

MuttonChops said:

Have you confirmed the Alde 120VAC plug is plugged in?  They can come loose.
How long have you waited to say Fridge is not working on 120VAC?
Very unlikely two different items would fail at same time . . . so issue has to be with Power Source or your observation of what is actually happening or not happening.

Bingo!

AC plug for Alde had wiggled loose.  I’ll fire it up for a test, but 99% sure plugging it in will help. Haha. I do now recall reading that advice a while back, but I had forgotten. 

Fridge worked fine last trip, but so far it is clear the two issues are likely not related. 

Thanks 

ScottG

I assume you have the 2-way fridge common to the CS models. Does it work on 12VDC?

rkj__

ScottG said:

I assume you have the 2-way fridge common to the CS models. Does it work on 12VDC?

Yes, I have the 2-way fridge.  From my understanding, it is wired from the factory to only run on DC.  Even when the trailer is plugged into AC power, the converter converts to DC to run the fridge, despite it being a 2-way fridge.  Right?

Bayliss

@rkj__, I solved the loose AC plug with a couple zip ties to hold it in place.  The zip-tie on the right side of the plug in the photo below is routed through a hole on the outlet junction box:

ScottG

rkj__ said:

ScottG said:

I assume you have the 2-way fridge common to the CS models. Does it work on 12VDC?

Yes, I have the 2-way fridge.  From my understanding, it is wired from the factory to only run on DC.  Even when the trailer is plugged into AC power, the converter converts to DC to run the fridge, despite it being a 2-way fridge.  Right?

Hmmm, I don't know, but if that is the case the fridge wouldn't really be 2-way so I suspect there may be more to it.

Some things can run on both types of supply. IIRC the Alde circulator pump is a good example--it actually switches over to 120VAC operation when shore power is available.

Further complicating things is that sometimes 12VDC is still required to run something even if 120VAC or propane are the primary energy source. The Alde and the Norcold 3-way fridges are examples.

So, to revise my question...  Can you manually switch the fridge over to DC, and if you do, does it work then?

rkj__

ScottG said:

rkj__ said:

ScottG said:

I assume you have the 2-way fridge common to the CS models. Does it work on 12VDC?

Yes, I have the 2-way fridge.  From my understanding, it is wired from the factory to only run on DC.  Even when the trailer is plugged into AC power, the converter converts to DC to run the fridge, despite it being a 2-way fridge.  Right?

Hmmm, I don't know, but if that is the case the fridge wouldn't really be 2-way so I suspect there may be more to it.

Some things can run on both types of supply. IIRC the Alde circulator pump is a good example--it actually switches over to 120VAC operation when shore power is available.

Further complicating things is that sometimes 12VDC is still required to run something even if 120VAC or propane are the primary energy source. The Alde and the Norcold 3-way fridges are examples.

So, to revise my question...  Can you manually switch the fridge over to DC, and if you do, does it work then?

My understanding is that the fridge is really two way capable, but the AC input is not connected. 

The only readily accessible control on the fridge is the temperature dial. 

ScottG

rkj__ said:

...

My understanding is that the fridge is really two way capable, but the AC input is not connected. 

...

Got it. I guess I misinterpreted the OP as saying the fridge did not work on AC.

Might there be additional fuses in or on the fridge itself?

Marceline

Fridge inside light turns on.  No cooling at all though.  No noise.

If the light comes on there must be power to the fridge. Do you have the temperature dial turned to 4 or 5? It takes a while to cool down, but you should hear the compressor. If the compressor isn’t kicking on I suppose you could try pulling the fridge out and plugging it in to house AC (you would have to buy the cord that Norcold offers) to see if the compressor has really gone bad.  

rkj__

Marceline said:

Fridge inside light turns on.  No cooling at all though.  No noise.

If the light comes on there must be power to the fridge. Do you have the temperature dial turned to 4 or 5? It takes a while to cool down, but you should hear the compressor. If the compressor isn’t kicking on I suppose you could try pulling the fridge out and plugging it in to house AC (you would have to buy the cord that Norcold offers) to see if the compressor has really gone bad.  

Turned it to 4 or 5 for a few hours.  Nothing.  Turned off and on again, nothing.  Left at 4 or 5 for another few hours.  Nothing. 

MuttonChops

@rkj__ ;  If your Fridge is the Norcold NR740 series or NR751 series.
               The attached PDF file might be helpful - - - NR740 Service Manual

rkj__

I took the trailer into my nearest T@b dealer for them to look at the fridge, among a few other issues.  They found the fridge to be leaking refrigerant.  They only offered a full replacement, at about $1,600 CAD.  We will not be replacing the fridge at this time.  They sent a picture (below), and stated "As you can see out the back the coolant is building up on the line and leaking out."

Michigan_Mike

Looks like a slow leak originating from the copper line above the insulated area (the same line) below where it’s dripping onto power cord and the insulation below.  

davel4wa

It seems that the Alde A/C connector loosening is a common enough problem to warrant some sort of restraining device or my choice would be a twist lock connector.

falcon1970

@rkj__
If the refrigerator is still out of the trailer you could take it to an HVAC shop in town.  I bet they could fix it and not have to replace the whole thing.  Line leaks can often (but not always) be resoldered.

Denny16

Easy enough to replace the push in household AC connector for a three ping locking type(grand idea), you can find several, but look for a 120VAC 20-amp connector, a cord male and wall box female.  
cheers