More questions than answers.

Denny16

That confirms one of two the possible locations,the other being on the bunk side of this panel.
Glad you got it sorted.
cheers

Denny16

BrianZ said:

Denny16 said:

Correct, disconnect the red battery connection first, an reconnect last.  

Are you sure?
I've often seen the mnemonic statement that the red battery cable is positive like the marines, who are always the first ones in and the last ones out.

No, you are right, I was thinking of house wiring setups.  RV and Auto procedure is to disconnect the battery ground first, to prevent any inadvertent shorts when a wire hits a metal ground surface, as automotive wiring uses the vehicle chassis as a ground connection leg.
So a good safety procedure to follow.

That said, on RV isolated ground systems, where the trailer frame is not a house battery ground connection (trailer lights from TV are a chassis ground) somthe house battery is isolated.  With thenTV not connected a short to frame ground is not an issue.  So you could disconnect Red/positive first, and reconnect it back first, followed by the Black negative battery cable last.
The main issue is you do not want to arc a hot positive to ground connection, or the other way round. 
cheers

BrianZ

@Denny16, have you read this?..

https://tabforum.nucamprv.com/#/discussion/comment/99441
A short to the T@B frame definitely became a big issue in this case when a wrench shorted the battery pos terminal to tub frame & melted the main ground wire; which could have been prevented by removing the battery ground cable first.  Only a quick thinking response to the smoking wire prevented a fire & personal injury.

Bayliss

For my own personal safety, this is how I remember what I need to do when disconnecting/re-connecting my battery:

 

Denny16

I corrected my first post, which was aimed at a TaB 400, where the battery is no where near the frame, it is under the rear bunk, on a plywood floor surrounded by plywood.  Yes, for max safety, disconnect the negative/ground cable first.
cheers

bergger

NuCamp got back to me about the improper install of the BMV-712.  They were very apologetic, embarrassed and angry over it.  Let's just say they made things right with us and we did not even ask for anything, only wanted them to be made aware of the issue. Amazing customer service. 

Denny16

Yes, yes it is!
cheers

cottonmouth

I had a similar issue with my 2021 400. My solar controller was reading "0" watts and no current even on sunny days. It took me a while to find the controller. It was behind the drawer under the wardrobe (on the shower wall). I pulled the solar panel leads from the controller and tested with a multimeter and got "0" volts. I spoke with Creed and he had me pull the panel in the shower to check leads running to the solar panel. I pulled them and they were not even connected.

Denny16

Well, if you are getting a no voltage reading on a multi-meter, the only options are defective solar panel (not likely) or an open circuit, no connection to the panel.  Glad you got it sorted 
cheers 

cottonmouth

Yep. Creed was very helpful, of course. I didn't know where to access all of the wiring. There's the small panel in the shower cubby that gave me access to the wires from the controller (and seemingly every other wire in the trailer). And when we found out it hadn't been connected, he guided me through removing the radio so I could gain access to the pigtails coming from the solar panel. The radio is a very tight fit and took some prying to get it to slide out.