1000 Watt inverter install (T@B 320)

Omniphil

Have any of you 320 folks installed an inverter?

I was planning to mount it under the seat with all the other electronics and just add another outlet right next to the one on the floor that is plugged into the inverter. (It would be nice however to somehow wire it directly into all the existing outlets if that is possible)

The main question is how do I get thick power cables from inverter under the seat to the battery. I am assuming that battery cables come into that compartment already to the solar controller, but not sure if they are rated for that kind of power draw. I'd certainly prefer to run new separate cables, but short of running them along the bottom of the camper, is there some sort of pass through somewhere?

Sharon_is_SAM

@Omniphil, here’s a thread where they tied into the wiring shared by the converter.  No need to wire directly to the battery.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8986/another-inverter-install

DougH

@Omniphil : Regarding your parenthetical phrase in your second paragraph, I mentioned this in the mod fail thread recently since it's so durn ugly, but I just created a heavy duty 9 foot extension cord with a male plug on both ends.  I plug one end into the inverter, and the other end into the empty socket next to where the Alde plugs in.  All outlets and USBs are now powered.

However this is a horrible idea.  First because if shore power is attached without unplugging the inverter plug first, you'll blow electronics.  Next, by providing AC power to the whole grid from the inverter, the converter will try to charge the batteries...  a loop that will drain the batteries.  I could only get away with it because I have two separate batteries connected to solar and inverter and not to the converter, unless I throw another switch.  You'd have to do something equivalent like create a switch to turn off the converter charging line(s) that runs to your battery, then have a switch from the inverter to AC grid once the first switch is disabled.

But I just made every EE on the forum nauseated.  They sell auto switching relays to do what I just described that are much safer...  you cannot forget to do things in the right order.  When turning on the inverter once everything is wired right, it would switch off the shore power and switch off the battery charging from the converter.

MarkAl

I liked your comment on nauseated EE... as one, I was more horrified for the safety hazard of potentially having exposed 120VAC on the prongs of cord! I've done things like this before with much fear and trepidation! Also I agree with the concept of potentially attempting to power the power grid is a real bad idea.

DougH

@MarkAl : Yup, I need to add a hazard sign near the door entry. 

But I'm not sure I grok the last statement. @Omniphil wanted to wire up a 1000W inverter to power all existing outlets. Ignoring my risky methodology with the male male wire and my silly two separate battery circuits, I could have sworn a couple T@B members have done this safely with suitably placed auto-transfer devices, and they've posted their schematics either on this forum or on their own sites. And in some RVs this comes standard.

Hit the internal power button, and any external shore power connection is disabled, inverter turns on, 12V DC devices continue to be powered off battery bank, 5V USB outlets are powered by DC to DC down converter, and all AC outlets are fed by the inverter.  That said, there are just as many RV setups, including T@Bs on this forum, where only one or two AC outlets are supplied by the inverter, to avoid the expense or complexity of the transfer thingamabobs.

I looked at Amazon, and it seems like if you just added a device like:

   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153EYTO

... you still have to not use the stock WFCO converter box that also has the stock battery charging circuit unless you wire up a separate charger off of the AC shore power inlet before it hits the transfer switch.  But, if you do add a separate 120V to 12V charger right off the shore power input, then all is well with the world!  On shore power camper batteries are being charged with your better than new multiphase charger box.  On inverter power, batteries are not being charged in pointless battery draining loop, and inverter goes through transfer switch and powers the AC panel.  So Omniphil or I just need to disconnect the leads from the stock WFCO box that charges the battery, and hook them instead to a new AC to DC charger box.  Then hook up the inputs and outputs for a new GP TS-30 box.  I assume you can configure the auto-switch to prioritize the inverter or shore power input, if both are present.



Which new charger box to buy just depends on budget and whether you're considering Lithium.

Have I got that right?  We'd have to see how the battery supplies power to the 12V devices and 12V to 5V converter in the WFCO if it has one (if the converters aren't built in to each USB outlet).  I don't know if there's just one heavy pair of wires from the battery to the WFCO, not separate supply from battery and charging to battery pairs of lines, and possibly there's no way of disabling the stock charging circuit without tearing the WFCO apart or buying a new multipurpose converter / fuse box assembly.

I'll do some T@B forum searches and see if I can find the parts list for folks who have done this before.  I have a vague memory that they also replaced their stock WFCO box with a new Progressive Dynamics box.

And others like @N7SHG_Ham indicated they were opting for a combination inverter charger like the Victron to be their sole charger / load device for their bank.  Yet others here have just put in a big switch to flip from inverter or shore power for their rig.

MarkAl

Being basically lazy (wife will agree) I'd ask her what color she likes, paint a socket and wire it to the inverter.  Safer as it more likely will limit the current draw on the inverter...  However it is a pain if the object plugged in needs to be moved when moving to "shore" power.  In which case your solutions are much better.  Though I do worry that the complexity could cause some nasty surprises.

Aliase

@Omniphil Have you done your inverter install?  I have also been trying to figure out how to run new wire from the batteries in the tongue box to under the driver side seat in the camper.  I think I have found where the battery power enters the camper and I was hoping to pull new battery cables through but I am concerned the wires are just anchored to the floor.  Anyone else have any experience with this?  Below is where the battery power enters the camper.

Omniphil

Aliase said:

@Omniphil Have you done your inverter install?  I have also been trying to figure out how to run new wire from the batteries in the tongue box to under the driver side seat in the camper.  I think I have found where the battery power enters the camper and I was hoping to pull new battery cables through but I am concerned the wires are just anchored to the floor.  Anyone else have any experience with this?  Below is where the battery power enters the camper.


Once I learned about the high amperage I decided against it. I just run the inverter hooked directly to the battery in the tub area.

Omniphil

Once I learned about the high amperage I decided against it. I just run the inverter hooked directly to the battery in the tub area.

Denny16

Yes inverters need to be within 3-feet of the Battery, and the connection fused.
The bigger the Inverter, the bigger the wires need to be.  Most large inverters come with a battery connection kit, with the correct wires and fuses.
cheers