totally our of my element, have a new 320-s with factory solar. Just accessed the solar screen on my phone, it show )w, 0.0A Battery voltage is 12.38. Battery switch is on. It's a bright sunny day, why no solar charging?
2020 320-S boondock, solar, 2020 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E
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Taking a picture..
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8733/factory-installed-solar-panel-not-working/p1
cheers
Driving 120 miles tomorrow to a dealer that sells Victron. It's a week old (new ) trailer. I am really angry that this is happening. We set and paid for places to stay on our first trip Sunday.
I gave a glowing report on the trailer dealer...I have some other words in mind now.
Thanks all for trying to help.
Please refer to my note on your previous post
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
it 90 miles , it sat for a week.
Don't get me wrong, I remain very impressed with materials and in large measure with workmanship of the T@B. That said, this Forum has more than a few threads regarding a variety of issues with systems (electrical, mechanical, water, waste, etc.) that one would reasonably expect to be discovered and rectified prior to shipment.
Not saying it is incumbent upon nuCamp to produce the checklist (though that would be welcomed, I'm sure). nuCamp does use some components that are, shall we say, somewhat non-standard in the industry (Alde, Elwell, etc.). However, strictly speaking from a QC standpoint it would seem the majority of these "delivery faults" could be addressed in a more robust QC program at the factory.
I've no idea how nuCamp conducts QC, nor do I know what the final checkout at the factory may look like. But it seems obvious that there's an opportunity to enhance that portion of the delivery process.
Nonetheless, I find the T@B 400 to be an upper-shelf rig in almost all regards
Factory Victron Solar; Norcold 3-way fridge
'04 Chevy Tahoe Z71 DinoKiller
San Diego, CA
www.airbossone.com
https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/owen-ashurst/shop
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/134969#Comment_134969
We took the bed panels up to check the connections under there- nothing.
We checked to make sure the positive and negative wires were corrected to the right ports on the Victron controller- yep.
We probably checked 3 or 4 other things I have since forgotten- nothing.
Needless to say we were frustrated.. Why didn't we check this at the dealer, why didn't the dealer check it, and why wasn't it checked at the factory in the first place? I think it was a Saturday around 4pm when I decided to call NuCamp customer service- keep in mind this was in early April during the height of the lock-down. Still, I got a call back from Creed within about half an hour. He suggested a few more things to check- test the wiring, see if any signal from the panels, etc.... Did that. Nothing.
After that we were somewhat resigned to having to take the T@B back to the dealer for them to check & fix.... but I thought I'd check a few more things to see if I could figure it out...
I removed an access panel in our wet bath and found a red and white wire that had a lot of length to them... I kept pulling until there was no slack.... lo and behold- wires attached to nothing.... Could they be our solar panel wires?
I sent an email to Creed/NuCamp - he checked with the shop foreman, who provided the following response:
Sounded a lot easier than going back to the dealer (and unlike yours ours is only about 10 mi away....) - so we proceeded, and here are the pictures...
The radio was pretty tight but with a little patient wiggling it came out fine. Not sure on the 320 but it may be worth a try and save you that long trip and hassle. You can see the wires with the open butt connectors near the radio opening...
We fished the other end of the wires through, crimped the connectors, the Victron did it's thing (solid green light) - and we could connect and could now see power from the panels... Yay.
I must admit I was impressed with the responsiveness of NuCamp to my inquiries. Ultimately they provided quick and accurate information (albeit I had to get under the hood on my new trailer way more than I would have preferred....) But, a simple check of "does everything work" before the unit leaves the factory would help both them and us. After all, these are T@B trailers....
Sorry for the long winded post.... I probably could have just said "take out the radio and check the wires- should be a 10 minute fix. :-)
HTH
I think using a specific wire color code for the various hookups would solve a lot of wiring issues, PV to Controller wires should be the same color color from PV to controller, yellow for example since this is the color from the panel. Then primary DC wires can be Red for positive and white or black for negative. DC accessories should have their own color, like connection from Inverter to its control panel and outlet. This would make seeing missed connections a little more obvious.
Really solar is simple, two wires from the panels to the controller and two wires the controller to the battery.
Take the wires off the controller and check voltage from the panels and voltage from the battery wires.
If voltage is present reconnect everything is present at controller.
If it still isn't charging, then it is your controller.
Yes this should of been checked by someone, but since it wasn't it is way faster to figure it out and fix yourself rather than make a 180 mile round trip to a dealership.
Above quote from Denny16:
Here is a picture of the fuse...