solar panel for 2015 Tab 320s

Pdwyer

Hi..

I am very interested in purchasing a solar panel for my recently purchased 2015 Tab.  Does anyone have any advice or insights?  The person I purchased the camper from had an accupower.  I am not sure of the specs but it was a foldable suitcase type.  I am assuming I just want to be able to run the basics.  Any advice would be appreciated.  It seems that prices vary and I dont want to go cheap but I dont want to pay for more than I need.

Thanks

pthomas745

How many times have you camped with your trailer?  Any 100 watt solar "kit" ( the panel, the controller, and various wires) can work for the "basics" of lights and pump and fan very easily.  And, for less than 200 bucks.   Amazon is full of simple kits like this, and they would all work fine.  The differences would be a "foldable" suitcase style or just a basic flat panel.

Find out how big your battery is.  Did the previous owner update the original battery?  A 2015 trailer's battery  might be pushing 6 years old by this point.  So, open it up and find out. 

What fridge do you have?  Any need to run a CPAP machine, etc? 

None of this is hard...but begin to brush up on basic battery management if you haven't owned a trailer before.

Try this for a start:https://jenngrover.com/guilty-as-charged-rv-battery-use-management/

Pdwyer

Thank you  I will check out the battery to see if it is original.  I dont know what a CPAP maching is

pthomas745

Ok, that is good.  (A CPAP is a machine that helps people with sleep apnea breathe more easily, as I understand it.)

When you are looking at your battery just jot down the brand and the model.  The "stock" battery is usually a Group 24 with 75 amp hours. 

ScottG

Solar is a dish best consumed in small bites. I agree that a 100W kit is a good place to start, and a suitcase with controller would be the simplest and most convenient self-contained option.

Cheaper options typically come with jumper-cable style clamps to attach to the battery. Zamp brand suitcases will have an SAE style connector that should plug right into the port on the side of your tub. (The ports were included in 2015 but were dropped in later models.) Even if you don't get a Zamp, you can still buy or make an adapeter that will allow you to use the port--that was the first modification I made to my relatively inexpensive Renogy 100W suitcase. I've made other mods to the system since then, but the original panel and controller are in their fifth season and still serving me well.

Since the previous owners used an Accupower suitcase, be aware they may have already made some modifications. Wiring connectors are not consistent among all brands, so whatever you do ALWAYS confirm that your panels, controller, and battery are connected with the proper polarity (+ to + and - to -).

Michigan_Mike

Scott is correct, you need to consider and weigh your options when considering buying a solar panel.  The key here is to evaluate how often you plan to camp off the grid and in remote areas.  If the majority of your camping will be at campgrounds, state parks, etc. with hook-ups you probably won’t need a solar panel.  And if you live out west where the sun shines more frequently it is a more viable option for those who camp remotely for extended periods of time.  If this us the case and you do buy a panel you will probably end up adding an additional battery to supplement your power needs, so the cost will increase. Bottom line here, solar can be an expensive proposition and why invest money into something you may seldom need or use and end up taking a panel for a ride, only to let it collect dust sitting in the garage or in the back of your vehicle?  

I started out nearly 10 years ago with a 75 W Zamp panel in a suitcase setup.  I then progressed to a Zamp 200 W panel (weighs about 50 pounds) and this is an excellent panel but would be overkill for a casual camper.  Solar panels are basically trickle chargers, but the more solar you have and the higher end setups will allow you to charge up a battery quicker.  I had a trailer in Arizona with two 235 W panels on a platform that were charging 4 batteries.  That system was fully charged by 9:30-10 AM every day. That’s just an example is all, but gives you an idea of how solar works.

As noted a 100 W panel would be a good place to start and although Zamp panels are expensive, they are a worthy panel and align with the Zamp solar port on your trailer.  At any rate I would look at purchasing a monocrystalline panel as they are heavier duty, as opposed to a polycrystalline panel.  You get what you pay for.  👍🏻

Pdwyer

Thanks Mike.   I will most likely stay in campgrounds most often, but may "off the grid" on occasion.

Peter

kdawg

Hi - I am also interested in solar panels for my 320S -2018 camper. We have are new to boondocking and would like to be able to have a flexible solar panel to install. The battery is original to this model. My questions are:

• What type of connections do we need for the panel to connect with the battery on the tongue of the trailer? Does this come with kits typically?
• I've researched Renogy and a few other brands, any that are most reliable?
• It sounds like 100W is the right way to start - is that safe to assume?
• I know the trailer has a battery indicator on the inside of the trailer. Do I still need something separate?

Thanks for any help or comments here.
Kerrie

pthomas745

Welcome to the Forums.

Are you talking about attaching the flexible panels to the trailer?  Or having a portable panel you can move around?  There are many variables on flexible panels, and the ones to mount on the trailer would have to be chosen carefully.  Both mounted to the roof or portable panels have several choices in wiring to the battery.

Renogy is a well known, popular brand here.  Solar panels are commodities, mostly, so you will be shopping for warranties and support.  Renogy is good at those things. 

You don't know how many watts you might want until you know how much power you might want to use. (A 2 way fridge means more power use).   And, you also need to know what battery you have now, and if you plan to upgrade the battery.  I've made a 100 watt panel and the stock 80 amp hour battery work for me.  I have a propane fridge, which makes my power equations easier.

Not sure which battery indicator you have.  The small power meters (little multimeters that plug into a 12V socket) can be made to work if you learn how to rest the battery properly.  A real multimeter, also.  The newer solar kits come equipped with Bluetooth monitors that are very useful and convenient.  And there are "shunt" type meters that can provide great battery monitoring.

Sharon_is_SAM

@kdawg, keep in mind, if you mount your solar panel, then you must park in the hot sun.  Recent discussions have noted significant heat that radiates through the TaB roof and ceiling just under the solar panels.  Unless you take a generator, there will be no air conditioning.  I think that it is often better to start with a portable suitcase system, add some extensions and park in the shade or under a canopy.  Get to know how you camp and what you need for power.  It is much easier to buy a portable suitcase system and hook it to a battery.  You can always sell the suitcase if you decide you want a mounted system or keep the suitcase to add to your mounted solar gain.  

Specific to portable units:

1.  I think you will most often see MC4 connectors, but I have seen forum members use Anderson or other connectors.
2.  I think you have a solar port on the side of your tub that is very plug and play.  You just need to make sure the wiring to the battery corresponds to the system used.
3.  I like Renogy for their products and their customer service (hand holding as necessary)
4.  You want to position the charge controller as close to the battery as possible, so it is best to purchase a suitcase that is separate from the controller.
5.  100 watt suitcase is a good place to start.
6.  Many owners use a plug in 12 v meter to monitor the battery.  It’s cheap and forces you to learn acceptable voltages.  As pthomas noted, to get a true measure of the battery state of charge (SOC), you need to know how to rest the battery.  The battery monitor with the SeeLevel system reflects voltage as stepped down from shorepower (13.6 v) and reflects battery voltage when boondocking.  But, it reflects your battery SOC under a load which will always be less than true SOC.  

kdawg

Thanks everyone. These are really helpful comments!  I do not want to permanently install the panels. And given I'm on the east coast and like to camp in partial sun/shade, the suitcase options seem to make the most sense so I can move it to the spot with most sun. 

@Sharon_is_SAM — I will double check the solar port of the side of the trailer. I don't know I even realized that might be an option. Thank you. 

kdawg

I am looking at this bundle kit which seems very reasonably priced. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07Q64ZKWK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2UKVMSPOD7D4O&dchild=1&keywords=100w%2Brenogy%2Bsolar%2Bpanel%2Bkit&qid=1595253228&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=100%2Bw%2Bren%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-5&th=1

Sharon_is_SAM

That’s not a suitcase - that is a single panel.  The 100 watt suitcase folds up smaller and has legs like this:

https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-w-o-controller/

You can use the panel and make a set of legs for it.  I like the suitcase for portability and protection.

kdawg

ty!=

pthomas745

The kit you linked to is a perfectly good start.  The newer panels are smaller and lighter than the panels from 5 or 6 years ago.  When I upgraded my panel last year, I wanted a pretty suitcase......but they cost twice as much and weigh more than the individual panel.  Since I had all the cables and controllers, and I realized the panel would be much easier to handle than the big older one, I bought the individual panel.

Dig deep on the weight of the suitcases:  they are much lighter than in the past, but Amazon often messes up the actual weights of items.  The Renogy website will have accurate numbers.  My individual panel weighs 15 pounds.  A suitcase will be in the range of 27-30 pounds.  The older suitcases (if I remember correctly) went as high as 45 pounds.