Tab 400 screen door string repair

ScottG

On my last trip several of the strings were fraying, and the door finally bound up tight. I ended up cutting out all the strings, just to see what would happen. FYI, this is not a good idea unless you have exhausted all other possible solutions--haha.

So today I restrung the door, again. The good news is that it is MUCH easier the second time! This time I used the 60lb monofilament as recommended by @vhollow. Although the monofilament is a little fussier to work with (and harder to see), preliminary results suggest this is a much better approach than the polyester cord.

One thing I did differently from my previous approach--and from vhollow's write-up--was to eliminate any knots where the cords attach to the tensioners in the top and bottom rails. Instead, I made a simple loop and just crimped the line back on itself. I figured if crimps are good enough to use in the draw bar, they are good enough for this application as well. We'll see...

Lastly, I'll add that you can fine tune the door operation by tweaking the position of the top and bottom tensioners. It's more a trial-and-error thing. If the door doesn't close squarely, or if some of the strings seem too tight of too loose, a little adjustment of the tensioners post-reinstallation may correct the problem.

kteichert

Scott or Vhollow- I am in the process of restringing my door. The only thing I'm confused about is the bottom attachment of the cord- it seems permanently fixed to the bottom corner where the rivet is.  Can I leave that fixed?  The top has the adjustable roller that you use an allen key to tighten but I can't see that bottom through the fuzzy dust catcher stuff and it won't move at all.  Can I avoid undoing the rivet?  If the string is supposed to stay stationary in that corner I have left a length of the old string there and would sew the new string (and maybe crimp as well) to that piece at the bottom and restring from there?

dragonsdofly

@kteichert @ScottG and @Vhollow will not know that you addressed them unless you place the "@" before their names. They will not receive any notification of your communication unless they actually read this thread again. Good luck with your repair. We're going to have to tackle this very thing soon. 

ScottG

@kteichert, if your door is like mine (and @vhollow's) the bottom cord is also attached with an adjustable tensioner similar to that found at the top. It is hard to see through the bug brush at the bottom of the door.

I'm not sure if your idea of restringing the door without taking the lower frame apart would work. Regardless, you would still need to adjust the tension at both the top and bottom once everything is back together. It's a challenging enough project that I would advocate for total dismantling of the frame and re-riveting as needed.

Before you dive in too deep, I strongly recommend studying vhollow's instructions carefully, as well as the additional comments and tips I posted above. This is a job that will go much more smoothly if you really understand how the door works and how all the pieces go together. Good luck and don't hesitate to come back with any questions or additional ideas. 

kteichert

I already dove   I have the door all apart on my dinning room table except for that bottom piece- the screen is out of the rails and I had originally tried to repair the break but ended up just taking all the string off.  Most of it all makes sense but just that one piece at the bottom- so I'm assuming the bottom glider/adjuster is tightened all the way in the bottom corner and I can't get the allen key in to loosen it but then I was thinking maybe the string is supposed to be permanently affixed in one spot or if I keep that as the setting for the bottom adjuster can I restring and make any needed adjustments with the top one?  It seems like the string did run across the bottom bug brush before? We have a 2018 tab 400-   Here is a picture of that piece of string

ScottG

I'm not sure I can answer all of your questions, but I did find after restringing that adjustments needed to be made with both the top and bottom tensioners. The top tensioner adjusts the three lower strings on the door, while the bottom tensioner adjusts the three upper strings.

FWIW, my tensioners were both originally positioned about halfway down their respective tracks.

kteichert

@ScottG Dragonfly kindly let me know you would not get notification of updated messages if I did not use the @and your name- just letting you know I sent the pictures above

ScottG

No worries, @kteichert. I have this particular discussion bookmarked, so I get a notification whenever somebody posts a comment here, regardless of whether they "call" me by name.

kteichert

@ScottG I got the door restrung thanks to all the great instructions and links to diagrams and have rehung it- everything looks like it will work but I'm having trouble understanding the tension glide. Is it supposed to move or be tightened to not move and is it supposed to be located in the middle or at the far end of the door?

ScottG

@kteichert, congrats on the restringing.

The tensioners should be loosened and slid to a point where the strings are tight enough so they don't bunch excessively when the door is opened, but not so tight that the door won't close properly. The actual position of the tensioners in their respective tracks does not matter. It takes a little trial and error, but once you find the sweet spot the tensioners should be tightened in place so they do not move. Remember, the upper tensioner tightens the lower three strings, and the lower tensioner tightens the upper three strings.

Vlemussmith

@ScottG,
I have just purchased the screen door repair kit from Nucamp. I have a 2017 320S. String broke and need to replace. I am disassembling the unit now and want to know if I need to cut out the 4 rivets at bottom rail as well? I have already removed top rail piece. I just don't want to remove anything that I don't need to to take it apart to restring.  Please advise. Thanks.

vhollow

You can just drill out the two side rail rivets and pull the bottom rail off the 90 degree internal tabs. Look carefully at the flange that the bottom string passes around, which is attached to the right bottom rail rivet. You will have to make a new one if it gets damaged.

vhollow

Also try to avoid the side rail rivet fenders spinning and damaging the plastic rail during removal.

ScottG

@Vlemussmith, I agree you don't need to remove all four rivets, but I think you need to remove at least one of the rivets in the bottom rail in order to slide out the big brush and the string tensioner. @vhollow, do you agree, or am I missing something here?

I suggest removing the bottom rivet on the screen pack side, and the side rivet on the non screen-pack side. This should avoid damaging the flange in the bottom rail that the string passes around (as mentioned by vhollow).

I'm curious about the repair kit from nuCamp. What does it include and how much did it cost?

ScottG

@Vlemussmith, on a related note, if you could post a photo of that flange in the bottom rail once you gain access to it, I'd be curious to see what it actually looks like. I got a little crazy with mine and mangled it before realizing my error. I was able to construct a workable alternative, but I never did figure out what was there originally.

Vlemussmith

Scott, I can't find what I paid but it wasn't bad since I need to repair it anyway... probably around $50 with shipping. It includes string, 4 rivets, and 4 anchor screws. 

ScottG

Does it include the wire crimps for securing the string loops in the pull bar? Seems those are pretty critical. Also, special crimping pliers--while not absolutely necessary--are highly recommended.

Vlemussmith

There are little silver barrel type things in bag that may be the crimps. Not sure yet but I'll include pics when I get to that point. I do have a crimping tool. Thanks.

ScottG

Yep, those would be the crimps.

Tabaz

Oh, just in time for Halloween - a reminder of the countless horrific hours I spent on my ill-fated attempt to repair my screen door.  I'll need to sleep with a nightlight on tonight (right after I check under my bed).

ScottG

You know, @Tabaz, they say never do anything for the first time. I can assure you when I restrung my door for the second time it was easy-peasy.  ;-)

Vlemussmith

  Hi @ScottG , you were right in that it looks as if I do need to remove a bottom frame rivet to get to the brush guard, unless vhollow has a solution. You can see where my string snapped and when I pull on the loose end on the right side it seems to slide around the rivet itself by what I can see. That is the pull rail side and will remove that bottom rivet carefully once my husband returns and take a picture of that mechanism.  More later 👍

Vlemussmith

I found this you tube video which is very helpful to me as I was trying to figure out how to remove screen itself. I see in rereading your stuff you suggest taking the opposite bottom rivet so not to damage anything. I'll keep you apprised. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/AN2nEqAflnc

vhollow

Yes, I forgot that you would need to remove a bottom rivet for the brush guard. I prefer to remove both bottom rivets anyway, and not the sides, but the danger is doing damage to the string tensioner in the process (I wanted to replace mine anyway with something less apt to cause string wear, so that issue didn’t bother me). You might want to just remove the left-side rivet (the screen pack side) facing the door from in the trailer. That way, the tensioner will not be damaged.

Vlemussmith

Thank you. Yes that’s my next plan of attack. I’m taking my time so I’ll keep you all posted however I do you know there will be plenty more questions. Appreciate all of your support @vhollow and @ScottG

Vlemussmith

Ugh. How the heck to remove screen mesh pack from stack side? Slid it out of the main rail but cannot remove the mesh pack itself from the remaining plastic piece. Tried pulling to no avail. No screws or clips… nothing. How did you guys get this screen out to restring? 

Vlemussmith

@ScottG - Here is the photo of bottom rivet you asked about. I removed the other bottom rivet only to get the brush guard  out. I can see that after the tensioner the cord loops BENEATH the rivet itself and then feeds up through the leading rail edge. I don’t see any screw or mechanism on top of the rivet itself. I’m simply going to feed the cord around it without removing that bracket once I figure out how to remove the screen from one remaining piece.  

ScottG

@Vlemussmith, thanks for the pics of the special rivet in the bottom rail. That was about what I was visualizing.

I don't recall any issues separating the screen stack completely from the frame. Sounds like yours might be binding on something. Maybe the tape that is applied to the back of the stack to keep the strings from sliding has come loose?

Vlemussmith

Thank you Scott. Just got it out as we speak. Yay!!  onward... I noticed the cord that they sent me is just a little bit heavier than the previous one however I’m wondering if I’m going through this if I should just as well think about some sort of other option that might be more durable. Fishing line? LMK your thoughts.

ScottG

The cord is a little easier to work with for your first try at a repair, but I suspect the fishing line will ultimately prove more durable.