Our battery seems to be charging fine with solar, to full charge. But our last trip drained quickly. We came home with full charge then left it on over night to test and by morning it was at 1/3 with nothing running. (checked refrigerator and all outlets) We never go below 2/3 with the solar running while boon docking. Do we need a new battery? Or are there other things we should check. We are in Tucson and the battery has been out in our carport in what has been the hottest summer on record here.
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Considering that you are in Tucson, if it is a wet cell battery (i.e., not sealed), the first thing I would check is the distilled water level in the cells. If you have a multi-meter to independently confirm the actual charge, that will give you a better idea of the charge level of the battery. However, when you check it, be sure that you disconnect the battery from any sort of charging device (e.g., the trailer power center/converter, solar charger, trickle-charger, etc.) and don't check the battery charge level while the trailer is plugged in to AC power (unless you have first isolated the battery with the cut-off switch in the aluminum tub.) Same goes with not testing it while your seven-way plug is connected to your tow vehicle. After disconnecting the battery from any charging source, wait about 1/2 hr to an hour before checking the charge to get an accurate reading.
(NOTE: Although the USB and 12V cigarette lighter type outlets are powered by the battery (or, via the WFCO power center converter, which converts 120V AC to 12V DC power), your standard electric plug outlets are only powered by 120V AC when the trailer is plugged in to shore power at your home or campground. If you are testing for battery power to the refrigerator, make sure that you have selected the 12V battery as the power source.)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
- It may be worth storing the battery inside the house between summer trips. Climate control makes a difference; my in laws are in Phoenix, and we actually discussed battery life the last time I was down there. Friends who left their cars & golf carts in carports rather than better insulated garages definitely went through batteries more frequently.
- I have a NOCO Genius charger on hand leftover from the days when I had a car that ate batteries. In addition to smart charging, it has a repair function, and the newest models are apparently even better with that. I stick it on my trailer battery a few times a year and let it work its routine. Hopefully it’s keeping my battery healthy; it has definitely made a difference with the starting battery on my current car.
If you need to replace your battery, look at upgrading it to an AGM (they handle heat better), and sizing up to a group 27 or 31. Or better yet, to a pair of golf cart batteries. The 12v fridge on the CS models does use a fair amount of power, and even with solar, you’ll do better with a bigger battery. A group 27 fits in the Boondock tub with no issue, and my AGM 27 has 105AH to work with versus your 75AH (as with any lead acid battery, assume only 50% of that is usable, though with AGM you can get away with a bit more).
Lithium is not the best choice for AZ summers unless kept in an insulated compartment. It runs hot under ideal conditions, and they really are sensitive to charging under severe weather extremes. That said, their light weight makes them easy to pull and store indoors between trips!
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW